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Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator 1991-1994, 1995-2001, 2002-2005, 2006-2010 Ford Explorer

2000 Explorer Idle Issue

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Old May 12, 2012 | 02:15 PM
  #61  
Jasonx521's Avatar
Jasonx521
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Okay,

I replaced the oil/air separator (F77Z-6A785-AB) (comes with new o-rings), the PCV hose assembly (includes the PCV Valve) (F77Z-6C342-AB), and the hose (PCV fresh air intake) that goes from the intake tube (before the throttle body) to the valve cover (passenger side) (F57Z-6853-CB)

~ $90-100 w/ shipping from dealership (Tousley Ford Parts Depot) great prices....

The results: idles perfect. I no longer have higher than normal idle (~950-1000rpms) now idles ~750rpms (what it should idle at) and smooth

I tried spraying all around the intake (2) cans of starter fluid and it never showed up once.

I suspected it was leaking, because if I removed the PCV hoses from the back of the intake and plugged the intake, it would idle perfect.

I would leave it this way (disconnected), except it would be running richer than normal, corrode & rust the internal components in the crankcase, contaminate the oil much faster, break down the engine gaskets faster, and last but not least it would dump a good amount of hydro carbon emissions into the atmosphere.

A testing method is: block the PCV intake hose on the passenger valve cover and of course plug the hose coming from the intake tube, then remove the engine oil dipstick and measure the vacuum at this point, the vacuum reading should be ~ 1-3.
If it is higher than this; the PCV valve is most likely stuck open
If it is lower than this; either the PCV tubing and/or air/oil separator is leaking and/or the crankcase is leaking (gasket(s), seal(s), engine oil cap on valve cover etc.)

Another method that works miles better than using a flammable spray is to use smoke with the clutch fan removed.

A rough idle can be fuel injector seals leaking and/or dirty, fouled sparkplug(s), bad sparkplug wires, and bad coil.

I would clean the MAF, IAC, and throttle body first.

If you cleaned and tested the above and did not find and leaks; I would replace the following in the given order; MAF, IAC, O2, EGR, new or cleaned fuel injectors w/ new O-rings, DFEE, and TEMP sensors (if you currently have the screw in type sensors, plan on replacing the entire thermostat housing to new style w/ new sensors etc.).

I hope this helps
 

Last edited by Jasonx521; May 12, 2012 at 04:43 PM. Reason: typo
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