2000 Explorer Idle Issue
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Joined: Apr 2009
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It keeps the engine oil from entering your vacuum system, the part number is F77Z-6A785-AB sometimes with the heat they become very brittle and crack, they are made of plastic, they cost about $18.66 and it also comes with the o-ring seal that I told you that cracks with the heat generated under the manifold. These are the additional parts you will need to do the job:
F77Z-6C342-AB PVC hose assy $41.98
YL2Z-9E436-AA Intake Gasket $3.69
YL2Z-9461-AA Intake gasket $1.64
a small tube of silicone lube to coat the o-rings and gaskets.
I would replace the separator even if yours looks good, just to make sure!
al martinez
F77Z-6C342-AB PVC hose assy $41.98
YL2Z-9E436-AA Intake Gasket $3.69
YL2Z-9461-AA Intake gasket $1.64
a small tube of silicone lube to coat the o-rings and gaskets.
I would replace the separator even if yours looks good, just to make sure!
al martinez
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2008
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Thanks.
I check my oil regularly and it is never low. I haven't even seen any traces of oil in my air filter. Would this eliminate the separator seal being bad?
I also just had the PCV valve and hose assembly replaced.
I check my oil regularly and it is never low. I haven't even seen any traces of oil in my air filter. Would this eliminate the separator seal being bad?
I also just had the PCV valve and hose assembly replaced.
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I've never had any oil leaks either on my Explorer or an oil stained air filter, but I did notice oil stain from the top rear of the engine block, by the seperator. You might have to get a small mirror amd good flashlight to see.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 201
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From: Mason, Ohio
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Me, too. I have to drive it to work daily, and I can't afford to take another day off or get a rental car.
I am not technically inclined enough to do it myself, I'll have to take it somewhere.
The dealership says that they spray the intake area, and if the spray is not "sucked up", they eliminate the intake gaskets as being leaky.
When I first crank it up, I feel an ignition miss. When it warms up, it's less noticeable. It is not noticable at all during accelration or cruising. Coming to a stoplight, the idle hovers around 900, then drops to 500 when it stops, and then idles rough.
My "list" of culprits is; oil separator/gasket, minor vacuum leak somewhere, throttle body, IAT, intake gaskets, TPS, EGR, EVAP, and TPS, for starters.
What is the difference between intake gaskets and o-rings?
I am not technically inclined enough to do it myself, I'll have to take it somewhere.
The dealership says that they spray the intake area, and if the spray is not "sucked up", they eliminate the intake gaskets as being leaky.
When I first crank it up, I feel an ignition miss. When it warms up, it's less noticeable. It is not noticable at all during accelration or cruising. Coming to a stoplight, the idle hovers around 900, then drops to 500 when it stops, and then idles rough.
My "list" of culprits is; oil separator/gasket, minor vacuum leak somewhere, throttle body, IAT, intake gaskets, TPS, EGR, EVAP, and TPS, for starters.
What is the difference between intake gaskets and o-rings?
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Mason, Ohio
No difference as far as I know. The o rings sit in a grove under the intake manifold. I understand that they shrink over time and start to leak. I had them replaced on my sons 99 Explorer and it took care of his problems. The leak was hard to find using the spray method, but I could track it down on cold mornings when he first started the motor. Just sprayed starting fluid around the manifold and the idle reved up and smoothed out. As soon as the motor warmed up, I couldn't make that trick work. The mechanic argued with me that it had to be something else, but I talked him into relacing those o rings. No problem with that one since. I think my wife's Explorer is headed down the same path, but I can't seem to find a vacume leak on it.
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I don't understand why I only have a "miss" during idle. I don't have any problems during cruise or acceleration.
Also, it seems that this problem came on suddenly, where I think an aging gasket would give you "gradual" problems.
Another baffler is that it seems to do better if the air outside is cooler. When I first start it up and all the "choking" mechanisms are working, the only thing I notice is a miss by feeling the "pops" holding on to the steering wheel. It's intermittent, with no rhythm, However, the tach stays STEADY, and does not fluctuate at all. I would expect fluctuation with a vacuum leak.
Also, it seems that this problem came on suddenly, where I think an aging gasket would give you "gradual" problems.
Another baffler is that it seems to do better if the air outside is cooler. When I first start it up and all the "choking" mechanisms are working, the only thing I notice is a miss by feeling the "pops" holding on to the steering wheel. It's intermittent, with no rhythm, However, the tach stays STEADY, and does not fluctuate at all. I would expect fluctuation with a vacuum leak.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Mason, Ohio
I'm not sure about those symptoms either. I asked about using smoke to check for vacume leaks and was told to use a regular smoke bomb like they sell for 4th of July. I guess you would have to remove the fan belt though, or it would just blow around. The person I spoke to said that the leak would suck in the smoke and be very visible. I may try that next.