my SAS
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From: raymond alberta
i got my axle apart again and i gotta get the new seals bearings are still good though
anyway since i have the gears out any way i figured now would be a good time to install the limited slip i wanted and since my b-day is early next month i figure i might be able to call that my "present" for the year lol havent had a party since i was 5 so i figure im due
...
so to any guys who run limited slip or similar setups, who makes the best bang for the buck limited slip, i dont want a full out locker, but i have heard about the spools but i havent researched them enough to understand them
, i am just looking for a modest affordable limited slip carrier, any recommendations?
thanks all
anyway since i have the gears out any way i figured now would be a good time to install the limited slip i wanted and since my b-day is early next month i figure i might be able to call that my "present" for the year lol havent had a party since i was 5 so i figure im due
...so to any guys who run limited slip or similar setups, who makes the best bang for the buck limited slip, i dont want a full out locker, but i have heard about the spools but i havent researched them enough to understand them
, i am just looking for a modest affordable limited slip carrier, any recommendations?thanks all
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From: raymond alberta
well from my quick search i have found only one LS that poked me in the eye an that was the auburn LS, i read a review on it and it seems pretty decent, any other opinions on this? i am on my way to google it right now
thanks again guys
thanks again guys
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Power-lock seems to be the best way to go although good luck finding one. They been on back order for a long time according to jbg. I just scored one from a local junk yard that came from the rear of an international. 75 bucks with a broken bolt that I cant effin find cause its left hand thread. Power-locks are nice cause you can rebuild them and they say 90% lock up. Thats about as close to a locker you can get and wont be so hard on the little axle shafts.
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Poquoson Va.
I went with a trac loc, they say 50 % lock up. But you know I have the week TTB and didnt want much more(trying to make it last). If I had a solid axle, there are better L/S out there like the power lock as mentioned.
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From: raymond alberta
yeah i think im goin with the auburn setup...i looked at a Detroit truetrac but it is basically and auto locker and i dont want a full out locker, too hard on parts thats why i was looking into an LS, now i just have to find an auburn that not at least 2 weeks away
i also could not for the life of me find a TRE with the same size shank but right thread, so i took the one i had (with the shank that was too large) to the machine shop and dropped it off, they are going to match the larger with the smaller but opposing threads, my DOM is in so they just have to put it all together, ill get that on friday
my axle seal is also in friday...$33 seal!
still havent heard about my shocks or brake lines so i will have to call them pretty soon here
i also could not for the life of me find a TRE with the same size shank but right thread, so i took the one i had (with the shank that was too large) to the machine shop and dropped it off, they are going to match the larger with the smaller but opposing threads, my DOM is in so they just have to put it all together, ill get that on friday
my axle seal is also in friday...$33 seal!
still havent heard about my shocks or brake lines so i will have to call them pretty soon here
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From: raymond alberta
got my drag link back...instead of spending one hour to machine the TRE to fit the DOM they spent 2.5 hours to bore it out press in a sleeve weld the sleeve then thread it an bore out the other side an thread it, imagine the look on my face when the bill was $230 an he quoted me $180, but its probably for the best...but the good news...IT FITS now tomorrow i need to trac down the proper size nuts for use as jam nuts then thats done
got my axle seal today and it turns out i waited that long for nothing, he accidentally punched the wrong PN into the computer and brought up a 78 axle seal which was $33 and had to be shipped in, it was too big so i go back in and he runs the correct number to find he has one in stock for $13 LOL...oh well
forgot to ask about the trac bar and steel for the brackets again though
got my axle seal today and it turns out i waited that long for nothing, he accidentally punched the wrong PN into the computer and brought up a 78 axle seal which was $33 and had to be shipped in, it was too big so i go back in and he runs the correct number to find he has one in stock for $13 LOL...oh well
forgot to ask about the trac bar and steel for the brackets again though
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From: raymond alberta
well by now you all probably think i died but im really just veggitatin and waitin for parts to arrive, i called once again and my brake lines have not showed up but my shocks are ready for pick up so i go get them next week and get those done then i got a few more replacement parts to grab for both of my trucks 
then the trac bar and if/when my lines show up i be done!
then the trac bar and if/when my lines show up i be done!
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From: raymond alberta
okay now i got some piccys for ya!
drag link not completely bolted down, just mocked up still needs jam nuts
and my stupid rad arm angle...is this too much? if it is i will have some new rad arm brackets built for correction...this will also help caster and pinion angles, i want to build the brackets anyway but if that angle isnt too bad i will hold off for a while
the stock 78 brackets drop too much for this setup FYI ... i need some that are in between the 75 brackets and 78 brackets....the 75 drop brackets also had too much drop
drag link not completely bolted down, just mocked up still needs jam nuts
and my stupid rad arm angle...is this too much? if it is i will have some new rad arm brackets built for correction...this will also help caster and pinion angles, i want to build the brackets anyway but if that angle isnt too bad i will hold off for a while
the stock 78 brackets drop too much for this setup FYI ... i need some that are in between the 75 brackets and 78 brackets....the 75 drop brackets also had too much drop
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Springfield, VA
Do yourself a favor and get the drop bracket from Bronco graveyard for a 78-79 F-150. They have 2 different types, where 1 is just a spacer type block that you re-use the stock bracket, and the second is a complete replacement.
The ideal location for he radius arms is to be straight back and not angled up when at ride height.
How tall are your springs? stock, 4", 6" custom? The axle is really close to the cross member. Even with a 6" lift on my 95 F-150, I ended up having to trim the crossmember to keep clearance when the truck was at full compression on the springs. Even still, you need to make sure you have clearance for the track bar, which is right under that crossmember. I'm sure you have that figured out, just giving a little post experience input.
The ideal location for he radius arms is to be straight back and not angled up when at ride height.
How tall are your springs? stock, 4", 6" custom? The axle is really close to the cross member. Even with a 6" lift on my 95 F-150, I ended up having to trim the crossmember to keep clearance when the truck was at full compression on the springs. Even still, you need to make sure you have clearance for the track bar, which is right under that crossmember. I'm sure you have that figured out, just giving a little post experience input.
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From: raymond alberta
Do yourself a favor and get the drop bracket from Bronco graveyard for a 78-79 F-150. They have 2 different types, where 1 is just a spacer type block that you re-use the stock bracket, and the second is a complete replacement.
The ideal location for he radius arms is to be straight back and not angled up when at ride height.
How tall are your springs? stock, 4", 6" custom? The axle is really close to the cross member. Even with a 6" lift on my 95 F-150, I ended up having to trim the crossmember to keep clearance when the truck was at full compression on the springs. Even still, you need to make sure you have clearance for the track bar, which is right under that crossmember. I'm sure you have that figured out, just giving a little post experience input.
The ideal location for he radius arms is to be straight back and not angled up when at ride height.
How tall are your springs? stock, 4", 6" custom? The axle is really close to the cross member. Even with a 6" lift on my 95 F-150, I ended up having to trim the crossmember to keep clearance when the truck was at full compression on the springs. Even still, you need to make sure you have clearance for the track bar, which is right under that crossmember. I'm sure you have that figured out, just giving a little post experience input.
drop brackets have too much drop and would actually angle my rad arms downward, ive seen people build them before and i tend to be a little overkill when i build brackets as you can see from my trac bar bracket ideas
if i build them they will be welded professionally and built to the nuts, i would build them similar to the stock ones
i know the ideal angle for the rad arms is no angle at all but i was just wondering if you guys think thats excessive
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From: North Dakota
that angle on the radius arms will be ok, Looks like u have that washer that goes on the rear radius arm bushing on backwards, it should "cup" twards the rear of the vehicle like in the pic below. i have seem them worse than that before.. also u will have to trim that crossmember.. take the coil springs out and lower the front end down and slowly trim as needed tell the axle can hit the bumpstops without hitting the crossmember.. i used the stock TTB radius arm brackets when i did a SAS for a friend, but i think i told u that already.... just have to use the TTB radius arm bushings..
here is a pic of my radius arm angle......
here is a pic of my radius arm angle......
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From: raymond alberta
that angle on the radius arms will be ok, Looks like u have that washer that goes on the rear radius arm bushing on backwards, it should "cup" twards the rear of the vehicle like in the pic below. i have seem them worse than that before.. also u will have to trim that crossmember.. take the coil springs out and lower the front end down and slowly trim as needed tell the axle can hit the bumpstops without hitting the crossmember.. i used the stock TTB radius arm brackets when i did a SAS for a friend, but i think i told u that already.... just have to use the TTB radius arm bushings..
nope that washer is on there properly
my trimming WILL get done AFTER the inspection
my old TTB rad arm brackets were pooched, well one of them so i used the 75 brackets, and i had problems getting the TTB ones to fit nice, they would have dropped the perfect amount though
dropped the dimesnsions off for my jam nuts, they will be done this week, tomorrow i am going to design my trac bar bracket and trac bar and get that built hopefuly by the end of the week
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From: raymond alberta
well i got my front shocks today and got them installed, well the top ends anyway, the bottom is just held in for now, i forgot i needed new bolts for the bottom
...went to put my jam nuts on the drag link and one when on like a dream, the other one...not so much, it only made it on about a thread, so i gotta take that back tomorrow and hopefully pic up my steel for my trac bar bracket and on that i have decided to weld it to the frame and if they fail it, it gets a new cab
on the trac bar itself, turns out the "machine" shop cannot bend DOM, they dont even have the dies for it...
...so i have to find a stocker
so heres some more pics including pics of my shocks and the sexy blue boots to replace those ugly red ones...what was th P.O. of this truck smokin, red boots on a blue truck
haha i just thought this was a pretty epic pic
...went to put my jam nuts on the drag link and one when on like a dream, the other one...not so much, it only made it on about a thread, so i gotta take that back tomorrow and hopefully pic up my steel for my trac bar bracket and on that i have decided to weld it to the frame and if they fail it, it gets a new cab on the trac bar itself, turns out the "machine" shop cannot bend DOM, they dont even have the dies for it...
...so i have to find a stockerso heres some more pics including pics of my shocks and the sexy blue boots to replace those ugly red ones...what was th P.O. of this truck smokin, red boots on a blue truck
haha i just thought this was a pretty epic pic
