hi, i have a 2000 f-250 auto 4X4 7.3L. I've been reading about the 6637 mod, but have a few questions before i do it. What all do i need for supplies, i know i need the filter, but do i need clamps, or other stuff? sorry, i know this has been asked a lot, but search turned up nothing.
Also i was going to do the foil mod, but does anyone have pictures of it before and after, and is it simple to do? do i have to cut the heat wrap of or does it just pull off?
thanks

 

Give Clay at riffraff diesel performance a call. He'll get ya set up right.

 

Clay has a nice packaged deal for the 6637 filter.

To do the foil delete:
I got some spray on adhesive remover from lowes. You spray it on and wait a minute then I took a plastic putty knife and scrapped the nasty junk off. It took me a few hours to do. Spray, go do something else, scrap repeat. I taped shop rags over the rubber boots just in case the adhesive remover would eat up the plastic.

Good luck

Andrew

 

Welcome to FTE

I would be happy to help you out. Drop me a line, e-mail or PM

 

Before doing the "6637 mod" I suggest reading post #29 here... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...637-mod-2.html ...and before doing the "foil delete mod" I suggest reading post #65 here... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post7160776 ...and if these posts don't convince you that both of these mods are "counter-indicated" then please ask for additional information.

 

I have huge admiration for your knowledge, but do you really need to turn every thread into a long drawn out post fest? I think the main thing you need to understand is that the reason most of us make different decisions than you on these topics is because we are in completely different uses. When I first started reading posts of you and others going back and forth I thought they were a little hard on you, but now I realize that it seems you feel the need to school us in every thread. I don't mean any disrespect at all, but think that you might be more well recieved if you set up a website or something that we could work through rather than cramming all of this info into these threads. I don't pretend to understand everything you post but would be more inclined to learn the engineering side if you could make it palletable. Hope hope this is well recieved and not just cut apart and quoted with rebuttal. Thanks and have a good evening.

 

Yes that's true and my post is directed to the OP on this thread so that hopefully he won't waste his hard earned money by ripping out his perfectly functional factory air box and filter! I see that you've already ripped yours out so you don't need any more "schooling" as to why that wasn't a wise thing to do. The following is also for the OP and not you.

Dyno testing on a Cummins engine at various air filter restrictions up to 25" H2O has shown that HP remains approximately constant as air filter restriction increases... http://www.filterminder.com/bulletin...estriction.pdf

So why do some dyno tests show a rather large HP difference of 10 HP or more when the air filter is removed? The reason is that those tests are done on high HP engines that are extremely over-fueled and air-flow limited and they're operating at an AFR of 10 or less and in those cases the engine is able to make some additional HP with each and every additional air molecule because these air molecules can find some fuel to combust with.

At AFRs above 15 there's more air than fuel and for AFRs above 18 almost all of the fuel is combusted so that any additional air is only used for its capacity to absorb heat from the combustion which reduces the temperature rise in the cylinder. This reduced cylinder temperature limits NOx production which is why my CAT C7 with its AFR=25 can meet the 2003 EPA NOx spec without using EGR.

At WOT maximum load a typical chipped 7.3L engine has an AFR of about 18 and my 7.3L engine model shows that for an AFR=18 there's only a 2 HP decrease as air filter restriction increases from 0" to 20" H2O. Or said another way if you were running a moderately dirty air filter with a 20" H2O restriction at WOT maximum load and you removed it and ran without a filter the extra air would only be able to find enough unburned fuel to produce an additional 2 HP!

The bottom line is that if you want reliability and longevity for your engine you'll chose an air filter based on its ability to filter 10 um and smaller particulate matter and not on it's restriction at some arbitrary predefined flow rate.

 

"Perfectly functional" Gene??

The stock box is a known problem with clips breaking and air leaking around the filter. There is nothing "perfectly functional" about it. The 6637 is a good mod, and is dyno-proven. Until you can back up your stuff with real numbers instead of formulas, give us a break. I will put my truck up against any truck with a stock filter and can PROVE flow rate. I can PROVE excellent filtering with OAs.

Quite simply, prove with *real measurements*, not hypotheses & speculation that the foil delete is a problem. Prove with *real measurements*, not hypotheses & speculation that the 6637 is a problem. I want to see "here's *measured* power with one, and here's *measured* power with the other". I don't think you can do that.

 

Gene... PM sent.

 

What are you trying to accomplish with this kind of remark, Gene?

 

Perfectly functional? Stand by, I'm going to have my wife send me some pictures of my stock intake just aft of the "perfectly functional" factory airbox just after I bought the truck.

 

Without actually seeing the airbox and performig a close up hands on inspection, this is making the same assumption that the designers made when they conceptualized the thing to begin with. If it sealed well, perhaps it would be OK, but a lot of folks know how it has actualy worked out in the field.... real world performance has not matched up with theoretical design in this case.

 

I just realized there is part missing from your list- a filter cover from Pete... click here.

 

So Gene... here is a pic I took of my "perfectly functional" stock air box shortly after I bought my truck with 162k on the clock.



I don't know about you, but I prefer not to see dust on the clean side of the air filter.
I respect your knowledge and expertise- to be honest I don't read most of what you post because it's just so much to compute. But please stop being a Banks nut-swinger and telling everyone how crappy all the common mods are, even though they have been proven to work. It's rather silly.

 

So,what is the problem with this mod?I see lots of guys and gals here have done this and haven't read any negatives on it yet