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I was at a red light and when the light turned green, my truck would barely pull. So, I dropped the shifter to 1 and it would not move at all. I shift to 2 and it started to barely pull again. I think 1st gear is gone. When I got home I checked my fluid and it was very low. Would adding fluid fix my problem, or is it a wrap with 1st gear?
If you run low on fluid it will tend to not want to move, just fill it back up and you should be good to go. If not you may have other problems, just post and let us know.
I filled up with fluid, but it didn't seem to help. When I checked the level, the fluid smelled burnt and the color was really dark. I think my transmission cooler has failed. I think the clutches are burnt up in 1st. Looks like I'm going to have to get the transmission rebuilt and the cooler replaced.
If you ran it low of fluid for too long you burned it up. The #1 enemy of transmissions is heat. Which there is a lot of if it is low on fluid. #2 is tied between non servicing, and using the WRONG fluid.
I'm new here and also have a tranny question. I have a 80 bronco with the 351m and c-6.
the tranny shifts fine till it warms up,then after coming to a stop it slips a little between shifts.a short slip between 1-2 ,and 2-3.it dosen't slip any other time even if i'm pulling somthing.only slips at shifts. will adjusting the band help??
I'm new here and also have a tranny question. I have a 80 bronco with the 351m and c-6.
the tranny shifts fine till it warms up,then after coming to a stop it slips a little between shifts.a short slip between 1-2 ,and 2-3.it dosen't slip any other time even if i'm pulling somthing.only slips at shifts. will adjusting the band help??
Adjusting the band (its only used for 2nd gear) may help the 1-2 shift, but if the forward clutch is leaking fluid pressure, it most likely will not help. The 2-3 shift is a function of the front clutch condition, the front clutch is used for 3rd gear (direct drive) as well as reverse. The slippage during shifts wears the clutches out in a hurry. You can limp it along by easing off the throttle during shifts until the shift has been completed. Warmer oil is thinner and escapes leaky clutch lip seals easier. Internal leakage starves the lubrication circuit of necessary lube oil.
At this point, the functioning transmission is relatively easy to repair. If you run it until it no longer drives, the repair will need more parts and could be more expensive.
Where are you located at? Perhaps another FTE member has a trans available. I have some c-6's here near Milwaukee, Wi.