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Automatic Transmission jerks hard when shifting

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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 03:49 AM
  #1  
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Automatic Transmission jerks hard when shifting

I have a 1996 F250 4x4 powerstroke diesel automatic with 126k orignal miles on it. The other day I noticed going from 2nd-3rd gear it sounded like it was stuck and then finally jerked hard and kicked in. I pulled over and checked the trans fluid, it was clean, didn't smell and at the correct level. When I pulled off again and watched the RPM's as it climbed to about 3 before it shifted to 3rd. My friend has the same truck and his shifts alot smoother and I can hear his turbo kick in but not mine. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 04:48 AM
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From: indy
one of your valves in your valvebody might be stuck
 
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 01:09 PM
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Not good

Originally Posted by cclc1021
I have a 1996 F250 4x4 powerstroke diesel automatic with 126k orignal miles on it. The other day I noticed going from 2nd-3rd gear it sounded like it was stuck and then finally jerked hard and kicked in. I pulled over and checked the trans fluid, it was clean, didn't smell and at the correct level. When I pulled off again and watched the RPM's as it climbed to about 3 before it shifted to 3rd. My friend has the same truck and his shifts alot smoother and I can hear his turbo kick in but not mine. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Try this. When the truck is cold drive it slow and slowly increase the RPMs. You should be shifting at 1200 or so and around 1700 at 37 to 42 mph. If the truck works fine when you drive it slow and its cold; then run the truck and get the temperature up (around 8 miles at 50 mph or so. Then slow her down and try to just drive normal. If the issue is there then get it over to a tranny shop and have them check it out.

Also its really too hard to tell if your transmission has clean fluid from the dip stick alone, that is unless is totally fried. Sipon some out and let it stand and check it out. Any brown hue to the fluid indicates burnt clutches. If you are going to syphon some out make sure that the hose can take the temperature or wait a while for it to cool.

Sorry to say but it sounds just like the way mine was acting before I rebuilt her. Keep us posted.
:?) DRRXR
 

Last edited by DRRXR; Mar 31, 2009 at 01:10 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 01:22 PM
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Is the light flashing on the end of the shift lever when this happens?? If so it could be something as simple as the RABS on the top of the rear differential is bad or dirty.
RABS= Rear Anti-lock Brake Sensor it's also a vehicle speed sensor (VSS).
Changing the fluid and filter is cheap and easy to do. It can't hurt to give it a try,
 
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 01:36 PM
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Good Q

Originally Posted by Cuda_jim
Is the light flashing on the end of the shift lever when this happens?? If so it could be something as simple as the RABS on the top of the rear differential is bad or dirty.
RABS= Rear Anti-lock Brake Sensor it's also a vehicle speed sensor (VSS).
Changing the fluid and filter is cheap and easy to do. It can't hurt to give it a try,
Jim
Thats a good Q. Mine never did nada.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Cuda_jim
If so it could be something as simple as the RABS on the top of the rear differential is bad or dirty.
RABS= Rear Anti-lock Brake Sensor it's also a vehicle speed sensor (VSS).
,
my dads started doing that at about 85k miles. it ended up being that sensor and it shifted fine after we fixed it.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 03:25 PM
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Ahhh

Originally Posted by phillips91
my dads started doing that at about 85k miles. it ended up being that sensor and it shifted fine after we fixed it.
I wish that would have been the case for me.
But hanging and then shifting at 3000, hard does not sound too good.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 03:31 PM
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Clearing my Confusion

Originally Posted by Cuda_jim
Is the light flashing on the end of the shift lever when this happens?? If so it could be something as simple as the RABS on the top of the rear differential is bad or dirty.
RABS= Rear Anti-lock Brake Sensor it's also a vehicle speed sensor (VSS).
Changing the fluid and filter is cheap and easy to do. It can't hurt to give it a try,
Jim
Are you saying that there is a VSS or a RABS? Just wondering in that I am not sure about this on my own truck. I have the differential sensor and rear drums; is there something else?
Thanks
 
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 03:40 PM
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The RABS and the VSS are one in the same. It sends a signal to the PSOM (Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module) for the speedometer and to the RABS module. The trans needs to know how fast the truck is going to set the trans shifts.
It's also used for Rear ABS. It usually collects fine metal particles from the rear differential and the signal gets messed up making the light on the shifter flash.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 03:53 PM
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Vss/rabs

Originally Posted by Cuda_jim
The RABS and the VSS are one in the same. It sends a signal to the PSOM (Programmable Speedometer Odometer Module) for the speedometer. The trans needs to know how fast the truck is going to set the trans shifts.
It's also used for Rear ABS. It usually collects fine metal particles from the rear differential and the signal gets messed up.
Sorry for my confusion, But my 96 has no rear antilocks.
cclc1021 has a 96 ? I guess we really just talking about the differential speed sensor in this case. Where is the ABS speed sensor for the front axle?

Sorry cclc1021 not trying to hi-jack your thread.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 04:38 PM
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REAR Antilock only...no sensors in to the front. BTW: It's not a good idea to call it a speed sensor (VSS) when asking for parts...you will get the wrong part, every time.
Are you sure you don't have RABS?? Pretty sure they all came with it. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong
 
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 04:11 PM
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From: Shepherd Tx
Probable the best thing to do is take the old one out and take with you to the parts house and that way you will be sure,might save an extra trip,easy to change.
Jim
 
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 10:49 AM
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Could also be engine electronics problem...

Your transmission symptoms sound like what mine did before the engine lost power, limped home, and didn't start the next day. Shop replaced injector control module and maybe some other electronics (that was a few years ago, with about 180 K or so on the truck). Shop didn't touch the transmission and it's been fine since. The engine problems and maybe "limp home" mode caused the transmission symptoms.

Long way of saying that with integrated engine and transmission controls, your problem may not be the transmission.
 
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