E4OD problems
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Ludlow MA
E4OD problems
so 90 f350 7.3 e4od rebuilt less then 15,000 ago by the previous owner, with a shift kit, truck has an 8' fisher and a meyers sander, about a week ago the tranny light started blinking, checked the fluid, looked good, not burnt, no leaks anywhere, pulled the batterys, code reset. drove fine till today, on the way into work the OD light started to blink again, i figured id deal with it after work as i was about half a mile away. went out after work, and the complications started,
first thing i noticed was my tach wasnt working
, next the truck SLAMED hard into reverse, and i noticed the OD light was on, but very dim. reverse worked, no first gear
, in drive, the truck will start off in 3rd from a dead stop unless i pull it down to second or first, which regardless, it starts off in second, (even in 1 its in second), no slipping, but i only have 2nd, 3rd and Reverse, i checked the neutral/light switch on the side of the tranny and it wasnt burnt or coroded at all, any idea what it could be? im hoping sensor, if not, is it worth it to get the trans rebuilt (like the 3rd tranny thats been in this truck) or can i swap in a c6? any differance between the 351 c6 and the 7.3 c6? (we have a 90 f150 with a 351/c6 for a parts vehicle) or take the body and rear bumper off, sell it as a cab+chassis (SRW) and look for something else?
first thing i noticed was my tach wasnt working
, next the truck SLAMED hard into reverse, and i noticed the OD light was on, but very dim. reverse worked, no first gear, in drive, the truck will start off in 3rd from a dead stop unless i pull it down to second or first, which regardless, it starts off in second, (even in 1 its in second), no slipping, but i only have 2nd, 3rd and Reverse, i checked the neutral/light switch on the side of the tranny and it wasnt burnt or coroded at all, any idea what it could be? im hoping sensor, if not, is it worth it to get the trans rebuilt (like the 3rd tranny thats been in this truck) or can i swap in a c6? any differance between the 351 c6 and the 7.3 c6? (we have a 90 f150 with a 351/c6 for a parts vehicle) or take the body and rear bumper off, sell it as a cab+chassis (SRW) and look for something else?
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
I don't think a tach sensor can cut power to the PCM like this, but its probably a symptom of a larger problem.
Your transmission is not getting any electrical power. You have 4th gear in drive, but it feels more like 3rd because the torque converter will not lock up. The 2nd gear thing with the shifter in "1" or "2" is completely normal as well as slambing in reverse if you have no electrical systems working for the transmission.
The fuses are the first thing to check. If you find one burned out, you probably have an electrical issue elsewhere in the wiring harness.
There is a connector that goes through the case on the passenger side thats behind a heat shield. That one usually causes most of the problems and I would check that first. Look for signs of corrosion, moisture, dirt, burned contacts, or oil inside the connector after you pull it apart.
Your transmission is not getting any electrical power. You have 4th gear in drive, but it feels more like 3rd because the torque converter will not lock up. The 2nd gear thing with the shifter in "1" or "2" is completely normal as well as slambing in reverse if you have no electrical systems working for the transmission.
The fuses are the first thing to check. If you find one burned out, you probably have an electrical issue elsewhere in the wiring harness.
There is a connector that goes through the case on the passenger side thats behind a heat shield. That one usually causes most of the problems and I would check that first. Look for signs of corrosion, moisture, dirt, burned contacts, or oil inside the connector after you pull it apart.
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