Hoping somebody may be able to solve this. I have a '97 Explorer Sport, 145,000 Miles, SOHC V6, 4WD. Three times (january, april and yesterday) the OD light will start blinking and remain without signs of a transmission problem and then stop. Here are the constants...

1. Each time I have been on the highway, travelling at normal highway speeds, between 60-75.

2. Each time it has been during a "long" trip, with the car running at least an hour before the light starts blinking.

3. Each time the light has stopped blinking within 24 hours. Turning the car on and off does not solve the problem.

4. The only symptom may be a slight hesitation between the lower gears, but honestly, it may just be me being over sensative when the light is blinking and I am paying the most attention.

In January I took it to a tranny shop and the diagnostics showed a stuck TCC solenoid. They recommended replacing the tranny, but I wasn't convincwed there was a problem. I had the tranny fluid flushed at Jiffy Lube in February.

As I said, no real signs of tranny problems. The RPMs are at about 2500 at 65mph, 3,000 at 75-80. Things seem to shift smoothly for the most part, up and down, and no problem with reverse.

So, two questions. One, anyone know why the light would turn on and then back off again? Second, if it is the TCC solenoid...how difficult would it be to replace? I would consider myself up to a moderately difficult job. I subscribe to AllData and so I have some pretty detailed diagrams and instructions.

Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks.

BTW, this forum has been an excellent resource...keep up the great work.

 

When the od light blinks it is just like the check engine light coming on. It indicates a problem and stores a code. The code is still present in the computer even if the light goes out. The light stops blinking when the problem isn't "active" but the code is still there. Go to any shop and have your codes read. They can tell you exactly what the code is and what the solution may be. That is what the first shop brobably did. They read the code, got a tcc solenoid fault and wanted to rebuild (I have no idea if a rebuild would be required or not). Any shop can read the codes and look up the solution so you don't have to go to a tranny shop if you didn't want to. That's my two cents.

 

Thanks for the advice, I am getting the code pulled again. If it turns out to be the TCC Solenoid, as it was the first time, can anybody give me an idea of whether the solenoid can be replaced or whether I should get the transmission rebuilt? I'd like to do the replacement myself if it is not ridiculoulsy difficult.

Thanks

 

I had a similar problem with a blinking OD light until my transmission when out. I didn't know then that that I could pull the codes, and have at least sometype of reason why the light blinked.

As per rebuilding your transmission, if you do a general search on ebay, for -in my case 4R55E transmission, I don't know which model yours is-, ther you can find manuals for rebuilding transmission.

I just had mine rebuild at a cost of $2,800.00 not very cheap, at least for me. This reapir however comes with a 24K/mo/miles warranty. So if anything goes wrong I can take it back.

About doing the job your self, here is what I would do. Again do give this people a call http://www.roadmastertranz.com/, and tell them the model of transmission you got.

They gave me a price for mine a 4R55E of $755 + $185 for shipping + $450.00 refundable core charge. Total having the transmission delivered it came to about $1390.00 without returning the core, or $940.00 once I the core was returned, which by the way is all included in the $185.00 inicial shipping price.

$1390 is a lot cheaper than the $2800.00 I spent for rebuilding the trany at a local shop. However in my case the care showed a lot more complicated step, since the 4x4 was not working since I bought the car -3rd owner- and I managed to convince my Transmission shop that I would spend th $2800.00 if they warrantee the entire powertrain including trans and 4x4 to be operational.

I'm still having some issues with the 4x4 that I'm bring back to the shop for them to repair from the original cost. So for me that price was oak.

At any rate is a suggestion on how to lower your cost if you decide to change the transmission your self. Besides that place I put the URL for above, rebuilds your transmission from the time you make the call. Is not something they'll sell you off the shelf.

Leave a message to see which way you decided to go, and ofcourse how you made out.

Ed.
95 Explorer Limited 4.0, 4x4

 

Your TCC solenoid can easily be gotten to by dropping the pan and removing the valve body. If you do it yourself and take your time, figure on 4-5 hours. A shop could probably do it in a couple of hours. If you remove the valve body, be sure and get the latest revision seperator plate, both valve body gaskets and low/reverse solenoid gasket from Ford. These items cost me about $20 two months ago at my local Ford dealer. I picked up a new filter and o-rings from www.bulkparts.com as well as the 5R55E transmission service manual. It has a very detailed step-by step procedure for removing and reinstalling the valve body and solenoids. Expect to pay about $100 for the TCC solenoid. I think bulk parts had them but I don't remember. If not there, there are other supply shops on the internet. I just typed in "5R55E" in the search field and started looking on the sites that came up.

If you have the same TCC solenoid code, definately replace it before you do any (more) damage to your transmission. I can't believe that Ford recommended replacing your entire transmission because of a TCC solenoid failure. Why not start with the solenoid that threw the code first since the transmission doesn't have to come out? If it doesn't fix it you are only out a couple of hours of labor, fluid and filter. I'd be willing to risk the $200 at the likelyhood of not paying $2000.

 

This happened to me in my V-6 Ford Probe. The problem was a slipping speed-o cable. They have some kind clutch within the cable which will only allow a very small amount of torque before it slips. The next time this happens to you, verify that your speedometer is opperating correctly. I believe it cost me $70 for a new lower cable.