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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 01:41 AM
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Better Braking?

Is there anything I can do to "beef-up" my '96 F-250's braking? I'm going to start pulling a trailer and cargo that will be pushing my GCVWR and the more stopping power that I can get the better. Is there some aftermarket products like bigger rotors / pads that are out there? Any other suggestions?
 
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by SouthernX
Is there anything I can do to "beef-up" my '96 F-250's braking? I'm going to start pulling a trailer and cargo that will be pushing my GCVWR and the more stopping power that I can get the better. Is there some aftermarket products like bigger rotors / pads that are out there? Any other suggestions?
Can I replace my rear drums with disc-brakes?
 
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 09:58 AM
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There aren't any bigger rotors that I am aware off. For good pads google Hawk pads. And yes you can add rear disc brakes. Its a great upgrade
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-are-here.html
 
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by tjbeggs
There aren't any bigger rotors that I am aware off. For good pads google Hawk pads. And yes you can add rear disc brakes. Its a great upgrade
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-are-here.html
Awesome truck! I wish mine looked that good. Mine is in OK shape but it's just a work truck (and it shows with the dents in the bed railing, etc.).

How much of a boost could I expect by replacing the rear drums with discs?
 
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by SouthernX
Awesome truck! I wish mine looked that good. Mine is in OK shape but it's just a work truck (and it shows with the dents in the bed railing, etc.).

How much of a boost could I expect by replacing the rear drums with discs?
Well I can't give you any numbers but is one of the best bang for the buck mods I have done to date.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 07:13 PM
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after converting to discs i can say its a HUGE difference whether i am towing or just cruising. stops incredible now, no more soft and low pedals, no early morning grabbing rears, and if you mash on it; she'll throw the passenger through the windshield.
part numbers for use at advance auto- current
Wearever rotors---------YH145251 - $57.99 each
wearever silver pads- --- NAD-52 -- $14.99
Cardone calipers rt side-- 184124---- $17.99+$15.00 core
cardone calipers Lt side-- 184125----$17.99+$15.00 core
True torq ft hoses ------- H98925---$32.99 each
Caliper hose bolt(help isle) 13940----$4.28 each

the rotors are 2 yr warrenty
calipers are lifetime warrenty
pads are lieftime warrenty
hoses are 1 yr replacement

and the link to my conversion.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-brakes-6.html
 
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 07:37 PM
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Maybe add a hydroboost. How about a complete kit from here Ford Rear Disc Brake Kits for 9", Dana 60, Dana 70 and Sterling or is it to pricey.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 07:38 PM
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why convert to hydro boost?
 
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 07:45 PM
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Most 1 ton and over trucks use it. When I converted my Jeep (I know not a truck) the first time I got on the brakes I about threw myself through the windshield.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 09:24 PM
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its still only going to apply as much pressure as the master cylinder can, the hydro boost is just another way to give assist.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 09:36 PM
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The hydroboost puts out something like 2000 lbs of braking pressure compared to 1200 lbs from a vacuum assist with less effort. I'm very happy with the difference it made in my Jeep and I am in the process of getting a SD setup to put on my 94 with 35s. I may do the rear discs someday but right now I can do the hydroboost for 1/3 the cost.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 03:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 1dieselman
The hydroboost puts out something like 2000 lbs of braking pressure compared to 1200 lbs from a vacuum assist with less effort. I'm very happy with the difference it made in my Jeep and I am in the process of getting a SD setup to put on my 94 with 35s. I may do the rear discs someday but right now I can do the hydroboost for 1/3 the cost.
Agreed! Not to mention if you go hydroboost and get an electric vacuum pump you can do away with the less than stellar mechanical vacuum pump. It would be tricky but I have been brain storming a way to do it with a little fabrication.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2009 | 10:20 AM
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This is just my 2 cents so take it for what it's worth but in all the years I worked on cars and trucks the biggest problem I had with drum brakes was that whoever worked on them previously didn't know squat about adjusting them. Auto adjusters can't be relied on to work properly either. No matter how often you clean and lube them.

To date I've only had to replace drums on one truck, a ford 9000 farm truck. I actually set them on fire going down a mountain. I've replaced shoes twice I think on my last pickup in nearly a million miles. My wife is the only one freaked out by the back end braking on our trucks now. She tailgates real bad and can't understand why the back end feels like it's jumping when she stops. At least she exercises the rear ABS system for me.

If your brake pedal goes more than halfway down, or your park brake pedal, then your brakes aren't adjusted properly. I like keeping an inch or less of movement in mine. I adjust up the brakes till The drum won't spin anymore and a slight drag is felt normally. All three of mine now have factory lockers in the rear so I have to put a certain amount of feel into the adjustment. The wheels on one side couldn't spin anyway.
 
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