Hello, I first posted in the V10 forum. Then I see that I probably should have posted here on engine swap forum too.

I was wondering if anyone has any information or experience or knowledge of any kind conserning a 2Valve to a 3V V10 engine swap.

Are the blocks the same or are they different? If different please let me know in what way(s) that they are different.

Thanks, Andy

 

You'll get more information from the V10 crowd in the V10 forum.

This forum is more for going between different families of engines.

As previously discussed in the V10 forum, the electronics on the 1999-2004 and 2005-up trucks are drastically different and controlling a 3-valve V10's throttle body and variable-volume plenum requires the 05-up PCM, which also requires all the rest of the electronics be updated at the same time.

 

Yep, you are looking at doing a complete harness swap fron the '05+ truck into your's.

As for the mounts and block, it would be best to go to a wrecking yard and compare them, they should have both styles of engines and trucks, with and without the engines in them. it is always best to look and compare yourself on vehicles this new as the chances of people knowing the differance first hand is slim.

 

Well, I know that the shortblocks are the same so motor mounts would not be an issue.

What I propose to do is install an 06 engine into a 00 F350SD using all the 00 electronics and modifying the intake system to accept the 00 throttle body. Seems the only real sticking point is this variable plenum deal on the 06 intake manifold. That I am unsure how it is controlled and knowing that vacuum must be involved due to the function it performs there must be a way to make a actuation system for it to work.

If anyone knows how the system is controlled then please chime in and let me know.

Thanks for the reply, Andy

 

Read the thread you started in the V10 forum - I answered that question.

It's controlled by the PCM based on RPM, engine load, and probably throttle position.

I suspect you will wind up with the power of a 2-valve, with an even shorter torque curve, or less torque at low end.

You WILL need a custom tune.

 

Thanks. Won't the PCM lengthen the pulse width of the injectors due to an increased mass of air being taken in (signal from the MAF sensor) and the signal which the oxygen sensors will be sending? The injectors are the same in both engines. I would suspect a longer injector pulse to compensate for the additional air flow.

Heck, I live in Kentucky where there is no emissions testing or inspection so I could even fabricate an intake manifold and use a carb if need be.

My wanting to do this is due to the fact that there are engines out there for a 2000 but they all have 100K miles on them. 2005 and 2006 engines are readilly available for the same price with 30K to 50K on them. My engine which came in the truck I just bought with a bad motor only has 125K miles on it and suffered catistrophic failure. From the lookes of the inside of the engine it was regularly serviced (oil changes) with quality oil. Absolutely no sludge or buildup. From what have read on the internet these engines are rather prone to sparkplugs being blown out. Not to sure on rod bearing failures on the #9 and #10 rods which is what mine suffered.

Either way if I just buy and replace my engine with another 2000 V10 then I would at a minimum would have to redo the heads. Seems like a heck of a lot of work and money just to possibly have an issue with the short block. When I could possibly swap in a low mileage newer low mileage engine.

Thanks, Andy

 

Are you saying the rear most rods had bearing failures? Or the last two on the driver's side? #9 and #10 are the two on the rear of the driver's side. Unless you're numbering them like a Chevy.

If it's really #9 and #10, that's weird that #4 and #5 didn't have a problem at the same time, if it was oil-related.

If it was coolant or a stuck-open fuel injector, that might explain it if #9 and #10 got hydrolocked.

Anyway...

I look at it as time-is-money. And putting together a good working setup that will be reliable is the most important in a vehicle that I am going to use for vacations, and even daily driving.

Putting a 3-valve V10 into a 2-valve chassis, with all the unknowns because of intake, tuning, and whatever else you have to do, is it really worth it?

As for the PCM adjusting, yes it will, to a point. In CLOSED-LOOP.

In open-loop, what's going to happen without a tune?

As for spark-plugs being blown out, yes, the pre-2003 models were prone to it, but as has already been discussed in this forum at GREAT length, it happens rarely when you consider the shear number of these engines that have been manufactured.

One other thing that strikes me odd about this whole affair:

A lot of work compared to what? Fabricating an intake or adapter plates, or throttle body adapter?

If it were me, I'd probably already have the original block and heads at a machinist getting rebuilt.

 

Krewat, The cylinders I was referring to (counting like a Chevy I guess) are the back two cylinders. The rod bearings on the two back cylinders appearantly spun and chunked up to the point that the rods go warm enough to cook off the oil coating on the big ends and locked them up. The rods did not get hot to the point of changing colors or turning blue. Makes me wonder if the crank even needs to be turned and maybe just polished.

One thing that I really can't understand is what the heck was Ford thinking by putting aluminum (Not multi metal) bearings in an engine which will be working so hard and turning such RPM's? Especially since the v10 crankshaft has offset rod journals right next to each other with absolutely no seperation. Just plain aluminum. I guess that way it is less likely to destroy a crankshaft with plain aluminum unless someone is a real bone head and spins them until there is no bearing left.

Andy

 

I think they are aluminum-silicon or aluminum-tin, or both, I forget, and couldn't find a good link to Ford's original bearing materials. Either way, on most modulars, they last 200K-300K miles without a problem.

On your motor, I suspect it was starved of oil, because those two bearings are the furthest away from the oil pump.

Did you check the rest of the bearings ?

I'd also inspect the cams, and cam journals in the heads, just to see what happened to them. I suspect it was run dry of oil once. The cam journals in the heads will tell you if that happened

 

Oh, and on Ford engines, the cylinders are numbered starting at the front passenger-side, going back on that bank, then front driver's side.

So on the V10, looking from the front, it looks like:

5-10
4-9
3-8
2-7
1-6