Ok.. so I know about the ccv mod.

Curiosity question is... why the vent is run into the intake line. Wont that f-up the turbo or intercooler over time?

And... if it is vented into the air intake, why is there grease on the outside of the intercooler pipes?

Also, Isn't the whole purpose of the PCV being routed to the intake so that there is suction to crank case? Does there need to be suction?

 

Ford plumbs it into the intake for emissions reasons... IH ran a tube down the back of the motor and called it good.
The oil and crap seeps out between the tubes and boots and gets blown out by boost pressure I'd guess.
For question #3, see response #1- emissions is the reason, not suction. No need for suction, what you want to avoid is back pressure.

 

One of the other reasons why the oil gets out side the boots, if i remember what I read, is that the factory boots over time saturate with oil and start to breakdown. If you notice on our trucks it is a CCV crank case vent and not a PCV positive crank case vent.

 

So realisticly... if you have oil outside your boots you have boost leak!! Right?

Wont these oily gasses accumulate in the intercooler and eventually clog it up?

 

#1- you may or may not... liquid has wonderful ways of finding its way through the tiniest of passages
#2- probably won't clog it, but efficiency can be reduced.

 

Sorry if I am hijacking the thread, its not my intention too but I posted this on here a few weeks ago and it was well received, hopefully its not redundant for you guys.


At BD we have recognized this common issue and have designed a CCV kit to eliminate the problem with-out venting to atmosphere. They BD CCV kits are a clean, OEM like install and have a replaceable filter. Like mention above in this thread there are a lot of cheap do-it-yourself options that can be done for less money and honestly I can not knock them cause anything is better than the OEM setup. For those of you that are more enviromentally concerned and what a clean, fully functional CCV kit that looks like it rolled out of the plant with it on, look no further! Click HERE for more details on the BD CCV Kit.
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Also if your boots are deteriorated and will not stay on, we also offer a heavy duty boot and clamp kit. Click HERE for more details on the BD Boot Kit.
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Dave- not trying to be too harsh here, but almost anyone can build a CCV kit similar to the one you sell for $50 or so. I can't stomach spending over $300 on something I can build so easily, and for so much less $.
Does your kit still go back into the intake?

 

RiffRaff Performance has the CCV kit for around $30. With a powdercoated pipe.

Hit him up with a PM, He's on here. or call him. 541-879-1052

Hope this helps

Andrew

 

I spent about $40-45 bucks on my complete mod. Most expensive piece was the length of hose.

 

Having a slight suction applied to a crankcase is beneficial in several ways. It aids venting of the corrosive blow-by gases and reduces soot contamination of the oil, it helps prevent oil leaks, and technically speaking it increases HP but not by enough to worry about!

Actually the EPA didn't include crankcase emissions in their spec until 2007 and several diesel engine OEMs continued to vent the crankcase to the atmosphere until the 2007 emissions standards went into effect at which time a closed CCV became mandatory!

See post #59 in this thread for an analysis of how the OEM CCV setup functions...

CCV Mod, Done!!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post7122368

See post # 12, #15, & #19 in this thread for the best way to do a CCV mod...

Oily CCV mod hose
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-mod-hose.html

I checked your link but couldn't find any specifications. I assume your unit is similar to the Racor ones that employ a vacuum regulator that's designed to reference atmospheric pressure and limit the crankcase vacuum to about -4" H20?

I tried the Racor unit specified for the 7.3L and I don't recommend it because it's not large enough for higher HP applications and because of problems with both the vacuum regulator and the red pop up warring indicator which is supposed to pop up when the filter becomes too constricted and needs to be changed.

As can be seen from the picture in my analysis of the Ford OEM CCV that design was basically fail safe in that its vacuum regulator used no moving parts that can become fouled from oil fumes. The larger Racor closed CCV units that are designed for larger displacement marine diesels might work ok for a higher HP 7.3L application but I'd still be concerned with the possibility of the vacuum regulator getting fouled with oil and either applying too much vacuum or letting a large positive crankcase pressure develop. I think the safest approach for higher HP engines is dual CCVs to the atmosphere!

 

Yes, people have built it for less. Would I buy his kit? Probably not. Why? Because I don't want to spend the money on stuff like that. I wouldn't even make the $50 kit people are talking about. Why? Same reason. I just vent to the atmosphere. I don't even use International's hose that is like $40. I just bought a cheap hose and routed it. That said, I don't think you can build a similar one for $50. That one has formed hoses, nice brackets and a canister that looks like it belongs. You are going to need to define "similar". Would your kit have all the nice brackets and what not like his kit and be as complete? Would you have to scrounge for parts or have them all ready to install? Would your similar kit look as nice? Does your kit require you to measure, cut and what not or will it bolt in simply? There are just a few questions but you can see, your $50 kit might not be comparing apples to apples.

According to the instructions, I think it does.

 

Heres a pic of mine. Mine returns to the intake and I have a filter in it. I used HVAC vent filters. I've been running this for about a year now with no problems. Total cost was around 30 bucks the best I remember. Pay no attention to the zipties..That was a temporary fix and and at least $2 of the total cost.

 

Well put... its not for everyone but the environmentally concerned customers prefer them and the guy that wants the clean OEM like install like them. Can it be done for $50.00.... ABSOLUTELY!!!

Bottom line... "something" should be done with the Crank Case venting issue!

 

I dont understand why your set up has 2 hoses going to it.
Can you explain.

Also,

 

One hose comes from the crankcase and into the filter to get out the yucky stuff then the out line returns to the crankcase thus theoretically keeping the same pressure as the stock system

As ErnestEugene said

Having a slight suction applied to a crankcase is beneficial in several ways. It aids venting of the corrosive blow-by gases and reduces soot contamination of the oil, it helps prevent oil leaks, and technically speaking it increases HP but not by enough to worry about!