im running rotella....

 

Your first post
Does anyone know why a free flowing breather like the CCV is causing back pressure and causing the oil to come out of the oil return line? OK- Is this a trick question or what? I had to go back a read the original post.

 

i had a problem with my truck CCV mod getting plugged... ran the hose too long and blew my dipstick tube out... bumpy roads seem to help clog them things

 

I'm thinking it's more coincidence, unless the hose is plugged up somehere, or there's an unseen kink.

 

Stroken How did you measure the back pressure that you a getting or are you just going by the smoke that the ccv is producing?

 

A plain rubber heater hose does cause an additional restriction which is why I used a special slick plastic oversize hose on my CCV mod that you can see pics of in post #26 here...

blown out dip-stick
blown out dip-stick - Page 3 - TheDieselGarage.com

Post #22 above gives pics of how to measure your crankcase pressure.

Jody runs a dual CCV and I saw many hot trucks at Smokin 2007 with dual CCV setups and they were all smoking profusely from their CCV hoses which tells me that increased fuel and advanced timing causes higher cylinder pressures and therefore more blow by!

I just answered a PM on blow by and here's a C&P of my reply. This test is intended for a stock engine and so far no Ford tech has replied with the size of the calibrated restrictor.

Mike,

Here's the pressure in different units... 1 psi = 27.68" H2O = 51.71 mm Hg = 2.036" Hg

I was going to try and research this Ford test on the FTE site but it's down for repair just now. Here's what I've got from memory and from some old notes stored on my computer.

The purpose of the Ford crankcase pressure test is a quick way to diagnosis excessive blow by, and if the engine fails the crankcase pressure test the engine is considered to be in such bad condition that a compression test would be a waste of money and Ford recommends a rebuilt engine be installed.

A tech posted that... "My Ford 2000 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis Manual, page 4A-54 says anything less than 4" H2O, at WOT under no load, is OK. The test is performed by sealing off the breather and putting an orifice restrictor adapter in place of the oil filler cap. The engine is run WOT for 30 seconds and if less than 4" H2O the engine is ok. The restrictor has a small hole so they can backup pressure and vent it at a calibrated rate. I do not know how small the hole in the restrictor is. Any Techs have access to a crankcase orifice restrictor tool 014-00743 that can measure the restrictor hole for us?"

I'm pretty sure that knowing the exact size of the restrictor hole in the "crankcase orifice restrictor tool 014-00743" is very important for getting an accurate test result. Also it wasn't clear if the crankcase pressure needs to be read exactly at the 30 sec point or if the pressure stabilizes at about 30 sec due to the calibrated restrictor hole and can be read anytime after 30 sec.

"....so i tapped an old oil fill cap and installed a gauge that measures psi. Doing this test my gauge read about 4.5-5 psi at 3K in neutral...."

Well your gauge should read something like 10" H20 full scale = 0.36 psi, but it sounds like your homemade oil cap didn't have any vent at all, and if you plugged the drivers side CCV vent on the doghouse then I wouldn't be surprised to see 5 psi because there's more than 1,000 psi of combustion pressure that can leak past the rings and if the crankcase was completely sealed up you would eventually pressurize it to a very high level! Did the 5 psi blow out the dip stick?

I've read that many people have issues when trying to install and seal a 7.3L oil pan. I assume you removed the engine and inverted it and used all the special cleaning and other preparation procedures? If the truck has a stock CCV setup that should be giving a 2" or more vacuum in the crankcase which should inhibit oil leaks.

I've attached a link to a pic of my portable oil cap...



...that I lent to people so they could do a road measurement, and doing a road test with the CCV vented its normal way should show if excessive crankcase pressure is the cause the oil pan leak.

Gene

 

Nice cap there Gene.

 

I wasnt measuring, I was assuming, because oil only got pushed up out of the oil return from the turbo when the CCV hose was on, but when the CCV hose was off and the vapors were just going into the engine bay, the oil return line was not leaking.

 

Measurement of blowby on a stock psd is now done with a sensor inline with the inlet and outlet of 1inch hose at the valve cover or draft tube. The Blow By Sensor lets you measure the CFM
flow from your crankcase. To be accurate you
should seal up the crankcase, valve covers.
You will have the breather of valve
covers as being the only outlet of blow by gasses.
You will route this outlet to the inlet of the Blow By
Sensor with a large diameter, non restrictive hose.
After the sensor, vent these gases with a large
diameter, non-restrictive hose. This sensor works like a mass air flow sensor and is checked on a dyno for best results. Now like I said turbo seals can fail and cause this excessive pressure. Running this much boost you should expect more blowby I would either live with it or measure it the correct way so you have a base line to go by. I think your oil leak has been answered correctly.

 

Anyone ever figure out what size this needs to be?

Thanks,
Shawn

 

I found a picture of the tool. It looks like there are two parts to it. The adapter that is connected to the oil fill and then the orifice tube connects to that. The pressure gage then attaches to the side of the orifice tube.

Just need the inside diameter of that orifice tube.



Shawn

 

Looks like I'm having a conversation with myself here.

Was able to measure the Ford tool last week. The hole in the top of the orifice tube is .4" in diameter.

Shawn

 

I will talk with you. Nice find on the tool and sizing needed. Not sure if he is still having excessive blowby issues or not.