I was installing some goodies today. i had purchased a WW, Non EBPV pedistal, and turbo outlet. i ran into problems with the 8MM bolts on the turbine outlet. my wrench slightly rounded off one bolt, and i was afraid it would do the rest the same. i had soaked the pi$$ out of them with PB blaster to no avail. what i resorted to was installing the WW and mounting the turbo onto the new non EBPV pedistal.

my question is will this work. it was getting dark, and i wanted to at least get things back unde the hood. i thought i had read on here once that if you replaced the turbine outlet, but not the pedistal itself, that you may have oil leaks, but i'm not sure about this way. i couldn't see where it would leak from.

i put in new o-rings between the pedistal/block, and the pedistal/turbo. will the exhaust pressure be enough to keep the butterfly valve open?

while i was at it i removed the AIH. i have the plug for boost connection, but i don't have gauges yet. so i did the kwik mod, and just sawed off the element for now.

i took the truck for a test drive, didn't see any leaks, and man does that WW whistle now. down the road i'll probably put on the ATS shroud, but the WW fit my budget for the time being.

any thoughts?

 

Should be fine, I would think. Quick question, though -- with the arm disconnected from the pedestal, what's keeping the butterfly in the outlet housing from flopping around freely? This is a mod I'll do at some point, but haven't had a need to pull the turbo just yet. When mine leaks, I'll yank it and install the non-ebpv pedestal & outlet.

 

i'm not sure exactly. i moved the valve with my hands, and it moves freely. i was hoping that someone would chime in and say that the exhaust pressure would keep it open. i couldn't see how it could stay closed.

side note, when removing the y-pipe i noticed how loose those boots were. not hardly even tight. i'm hoping that now with everything all tightened up, that i'll gain a little mileage back. there wasn't any soot around the up pipes so they should be good. i'm going to make a tester like ron made to double check everything.

 

Yeah, it should stay open if it's that free. I was just curious...

On the boots, they get loose for sure. Mine were an oily mess when I bought my truck. To the point it was leaking oil down the back of the engine. It was actually because of that that I did a search and found this site. First mod: CCV. Haven't stopped since...

 

I installed the non-EBPV exhaust outlet along with the non-EBPV pedestal. If I were you, I would at least removed the butterfly as it causes turbulence in the outgoing spinning exhaust gases even if open all the time.

 

When i disabled the EBPV on Greedy's truck, i ran a spare bolt into the pedestal in one of the tapped holes, on the passenger side of it, near the front. Then took a file and notched a groove in the bottom part of the EBPV arm, and hooked a tight spring to the valve and the other end on the bolt to keep it in place.

 

cool, i was planning on tying the arm to something to keep it open. i hope to run it this way for a little while, until i pull the turbo again. if i go the ats shroud route, or replace the turbo, i'll remove. that is unless i have problems before then.

since one of the bolts rounded off a little, has anyone had to remove then my using a stripped screw exctractor? those bolts are rusted like hell and even with a crapload of pb blaster i couldn't break them loose without damaging them.

 

No no no no no do not drive your truck around with a loose butterfly valve. If you absolutely have to drive around now, wire that valve open, and make sure it's tight. If it's allowed to flap around, you'll get a bad pulsing feel when driving down the highway.

I had the exact same incident happen when I deleted the EBPV. Rounded out one of the bolts and couldn't get it off. You've already sprayed PB blaster on it. What you need is some heat. Just grab a small propane hand torch and heat the area around the bolt for a few minutes. Once it's nice and hot, grab some channel locks and you can break it free. Heat will make it pop out surprisingly easy. Remember the turbine side of the turbo is already used to seeing temps over 1000 degrees. So don't worry about getting it hot as hell around that bolt.

 

Do you have to buy a housing when you do a non EBPV ped?? I was going to do this in the spring and I thought it was just the ped and the wiring adapter? What housing do I need?

 

i bought the pedistal and turbine outlet in one auction on ebay. i believe 150 bucks for both. i also bought the WW. i purchase the EBPV harness plug from ITP diesel (i think thats where i got it)

heres what i got on ebay.

 

Wow, I didn't know about the housing, thanks!What is the housing for?

 

the turbine (exhaust side) outlet removes the butterfly valve which is a restriction. i have yet to install this since i had problems removing the old one. so i have the butterfly valve wired open for now. seems fine.

check out my ghetto top side creeper wannabe i used to do this

 

Awesome, Thanks for the info, I'll add it to the list!
That contraption is great, my last repair in the engine comprtment I came out so sore for a week!

 

Sorry to hijack this thread but what is the reason behind deleting the ebpv? Thanks

 

i bought mine from this guy
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/99-5-...spagenameZWDVW