I'd prefer to reuse these if possible. To replace all 4 with new will run me about $1200. I'd like to allocate that money elsewhere in my project if possible. How can I determine if they are okay. If I can use again, what should I do to refurbish? And if I'm looking at $1200 to replace what do you estimate it will cost to refurbish.

 

Bust them apart, radius the edges, clean 'em up, silicone between the leafs and use 'em.......

 

It is hard to tell what shape they are in until you break them apart. Then if you find any badly corroded, broken, or bent badly you will know your course of action.

When restoring my '52 F-1, I decided to attempt to rebuild my rear springs. The first thing I did was check the arc between the two sides. Once I convinced myself that they were both in good condition I placed one in a large vise, cut the center bolt and clamp bolts. Then slowly let the vise out allowing the spring to expand. After a good sandblasting I inspected each leaf for damage. I used a grinder and removed any grooves and rough edges. I repainted, greased, and then reversed the process using new bolts. I purchased some new bushings for each eye. The hardest part of the job was getting out the old bushings. I had to use a hack saw and cut a couple down the middle to get them out.

I also purchased new pins. Dennis Carpenters sells a complete rear sping shackle kit for 48-56 trucks for $60.

Good luck-
Fred

 

I would take them to a spring shop and have them rearched. They will give you new center bolts, clasps, replace any worn leafs, install new bushings and provide new pins for about $250/pair.

That's almost not worth the trouble and time it would take you to do it yourself-not to mention they will be prefessionally restored and returned ready fro installation.

Julie

 

I just purchased front and rear pins and bushings plus "poly-slide" to fit inbetween the leafs.Ran $130 from "Truck Shop" Now I wish I had the springs out of the truck to start..I did find in the "search"this site about 40 pages relating to leaf springs.So with already scared knuckles and I think I can do it my self.I'm ready for this next project. At this point yours look great,good luck.

 

Did your truck lean or sit funny or did you just pull them off to re-do the bushings ect ? I got a new front set at JC Whitney for $200 ish. They had new bushings allready pressed in. My rear springs were toast but I found a used set in good shape for $50. There is a thread you may want to search and read " Leaning Panel of Pizza" that is a spring saga.
I took my rear spring with the new bushings and pins to my machine shop and they removed the old bushings, pressed in the new bushings, and honed them so the new pin would slide in just right,... $28 well spent! The bushings are soft and can get marred up eazy with basic homegrown mechanic tools and skills like I got ( Sometimes when a new brass bushing is pressed in an old out of round sping eye,..the bushing can warp,....and the new pins wont slide in nice,..this is why you want to take a pin with you if you use a machine shop) Also,.... Not a good idea to re-use the U bolts and nuts. After you get them on you want to re-torque the U bolts after a couple hundred miles, I got pins, bushings, lock pins and U bolts at Dennis Carpenter.

 

After all this work.Does your truck ride differant?As in smoother,not so bumpey? Can you tell there is a change?I'm hopeing my money and time will be well spent, for this level of investment

 

good advice all. a couple more hints: be very careful when dissembling a spring, they look pretty harmless sitting there, but can pack quite a punch without the center bolt to harness them. I would not cut the centerbolt unless there is no other choice. Use the big vice or a couple LARGE C-clamps to hold the spring together, back off the centerbolt to near the end of the threads and slowly release the vice/clamps. If there is still tension on the springs leave the clamps in place, finish removing the centerbolt nut then finish removing the clamps. I always used the C-clamps with the spring laying on it's side on the floor and stood on it while releasing the tension. On top of it is the safest place to be as your feet and legs will be out of the way should something suddenly let go.
When cleaning and smoothing the leaves always grind or sand lengthwise to the spring like sanding wood with the grain. Even fine sanding scratches across the leaf can give a place for a crack to start. Unless you are planning to carry heavy loads, I'd recommend removing every other leaf (see the Mid Fifty catalog for full instructions) and putting the HMW plastic strips between the remaining leafs. Don't paint the sliding surfaces of the leafs, especially if you don't use the plastic strips. The softened springs along with the plastic will make the truck ride like a new one and lower it enough to not look like you are going offroading. Mix the leafs side to side and be sure to use a real spring centerbolt not a standard bolt when reassembling.

 

As Xracer counsels, BE CAREFULL TAKING THEM SPRING APART !!!
53Lakeside, I replied to your P.M. but for what its worth,...my springs were a absolute mess. One spring had 5 leafs, another had 8, the fronts were one stock and one,..who knows????. My bushing were worn almost clean thru and I had a castor wedge on the front left and none one the right, it leaned like it was jacked up on one side . I just got back from a 300+ mile cruise to the beach,... the longest run yet for the old boy and it ran great. It rides just like a 67 year old Panel truck should. A lot of fun.

 

19fifty4, I got a quote from Detroit Springs for a pair of rear for my 52 Panel of $435 for a pair with bushing installed. Fronts were cheaper, if my memory serves me right. (I've gone to IFS).