IP pump adjustment ?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,347
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From: Maysville, Kentucky
IP pump adjustment ?
Hey guys,
Went to turn up my ip and got everything lined up as supposed to.
Is there a locking system or anything on the pump screw. I tried turning both directions but didn't want to mess up anything when it wouldn't move. I ran some seafoam through but haven't had a chance to try again bc we got about 6 inches of snow the last couple of days. That is some good stuff though. Engine was a little more responsive.
But anyways any ideas or was I just not turning hard enough.
BTW dounts are a blast in the snow
Went to turn up my ip and got everything lined up as supposed to.
Is there a locking system or anything on the pump screw. I tried turning both directions but didn't want to mess up anything when it wouldn't move. I ran some seafoam through but haven't had a chance to try again bc we got about 6 inches of snow the last couple of days. That is some good stuff though. Engine was a little more responsive.
But anyways any ideas or was I just not turning hard enough.
BTW dounts are a blast in the snow
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,802
Likes: 1
You ain't turning hard enough - I usually put the long leg of an L-shaped allen wrench in the pump, and slip a 6mm deep socket on the short leg for leverage, the screw in the IP has locking threads so it takes some effort to turn.
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Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Ortonville, MN
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Central Coast CA
Here is a site that shows you how to do it.
It worked well for me. Good luck.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: NW Ohio
If it dont move it could already be turned in as far as it can go, they say if it bottems out in the housing it can damage the pump. I found that out after I maxed mine out its been like that for 5+ years w/ no issues though.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,347
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From: Maysville, Kentucky
i dont think its maxed out. It would be smoking a whole lot more then it is.
The person who had it before turned the pump up some but didn't have a pyro. I've gotten it to 1300 before flat to the floor with the speedo buried. Exhaust is to small. Has the 5" stack with 2.5" going to it.
Has a great glass pack sound. lol
The person who had it before turned the pump up some but didn't have a pyro. I've gotten it to 1300 before flat to the floor with the speedo buried. Exhaust is to small. Has the 5" stack with 2.5" going to it.
Has a great glass pack sound. lol
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 559
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From: On a farm.
In 22 years of driving mine, I have adopted a 900 degree continuous max (when it was younger, 950) and 1100 for a short term (when it was younger, don't work it that hard these days... if I did 1000-1050). The truck has seen 1200 in very short spurts back in the day. All pre-turbo. I saw the pistons in a 6.9L engine that regularly saw 1200 plus.. they were all eroded and pitted. The pistons were kinda eaten away almost to the top compression ring. Bores had blue spots but no scoring. The engine ran fine, other than having a burned exhaust valve (which was the reason for the teardown). Didn't burn a tremendous amount of oil, either, strangely. He ended up boring it and installing new pistons.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
The stock IDI pistons are hypereutectic alloy.
Melting temp 1250 degrees.
A couple things enter into the equation though.
First you have piston cooling jets spraying oil on the bottom of the pistons.
That is fine and does help cool the pistons, but it is putting extra heat into the oil which is not so good.
My thermocouple sits right in the #8 exhaust port.
And I may run it up to 1200 for a short burst, 1100 is my normal pulling a long hill max temp.
The critical thing here, if you are running it hard pulling a hill, you need to let the engine run several minutes to cool everything down before you shut it off.
Internal engine parts need to cool, oil needs to cool and the coolant needs to get rid of the excess heat.
Turbo's if so equipped must cool below 300 degrees before you shut the engine down or the oil in the turbo oil passages turns to tar, early turbo failure is the direct result.
Melting temp 1250 degrees.
A couple things enter into the equation though.
First you have piston cooling jets spraying oil on the bottom of the pistons.
That is fine and does help cool the pistons, but it is putting extra heat into the oil which is not so good.
My thermocouple sits right in the #8 exhaust port.
And I may run it up to 1200 for a short burst, 1100 is my normal pulling a long hill max temp.
The critical thing here, if you are running it hard pulling a hill, you need to let the engine run several minutes to cool everything down before you shut it off.
Internal engine parts need to cool, oil needs to cool and the coolant needs to get rid of the excess heat.
Turbo's if so equipped must cool below 300 degrees before you shut the engine down or the oil in the turbo oil passages turns to tar, early turbo failure is the direct result.