I have developed an issue with my 2005 F-250 SD that I was hoping one of you could weigh in on. Recently I noticed when hauling a load of about 3000 lbs my engine felt like it missed. I didn’t think too much of it at first, hoping it was something strange on the road. Then it happened again about 100 miles later. After the second occurrence I thought, well maybe it is bad fuel being I filled up at a place I don’t normally fill up at.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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About 1000 miles went by and the truck never did it again. Then this past weekend, I made a drive with my 16ft. trailer and noticed it start doing the same thing again. It did it once and didn’t do it for another 400 miles. I dropped my trailer for the trip back home and it did it numerous times without any load or mashing the throttle.<o></o>
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I have changed the fuel filter in the last 3000 miles as well has use injector cleaner. In the past 10,000 miles, I have had the following issues that the dealer has resolved. EGR failure, HPOP failure, oil leak caused by dealer not assembling the rear engine cover back correctly after resolving the HPOP failure.<o></o>
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I appreciate any information anyone could give me as to what may be my issue here. I really want to avoid the cost and hassle of putting the truck back in the shop again.<o></o>

 

***bump.

I am having the same issue with my truck. Mine happens cold or hot, starts to buck under light load, getting onto the highway, leaving a light etc. It feels like its running on 7 when it acts up. I haven't noticed boost drop, speed drop, rpm's change etc. Feels like a fuel problem or something. Ive noticed at idle I now notice a stumble or miss while sitting in park warming up.

I have checked the ICP, it already had the upgraded purple wire harness installed. No oil leak there. Changed out the EBP last week and erased the KAM. No change. Last night decided to clean out my EGR again it was bad this time around. I put pictures in my profile of it. The FICM was replaced a year ago for a no start problem.

I'm going to get the truck ready to go to the shop this week. I'm tired of fighting this. Unless somebody else knows what's wrong with it? ha ha.

Thank you.

 

I forgot to mention, Fuel filters are also newer. No CEL light, no codes. I am running canned tunes from spartan now. Doesnt make a change stock or not still missing.

Thank you.

 

It could be a wire chaffing issue.

 

Ive read a lot of threads on that. Ive looked all over, I guess maybe I dont know where to check. There a more detailed picture somewhere on here? Thats isnt off of a E-series.

 

c_corkill, I dropped my truck off this evening at Ford. I will let you know what they come up with being my problem.

 

No HSS hocking? Seriously, subscribing- my truck does this sometimes, but mostly when I ran 15-40. Doesn't do it hardly at all with 5-40 syn ( Rotella) Like I have a sticky injector. But like I said, just did OC last wk back to syn and its a huge difference, in my truck anyway.

 

I actually should have gone with syn my last change. I think it could be an injector myself. I took some advice have alwasy ran powerservice grey and white depending on the time of year. Tried some 2 stroke in the tank. No change. Will let ya both know.

 

I also run DK in every tank, but I also run B10 year-round. So no need for 2 stroke oil for me. But try the syn before you try the HSS, jury's still out whether it works or not.
Edit: Maybe check for codes? Dealer might have to do that, though. You can have a code even w/o the CEL on.

 

HSS? What is that? Sorry.

 

Oh, boy...Hot Shots Secret additive, add in place of half-gallon ( I think its 1/2 gal?) of motor oil, supposedly cures stiction in the injectors. Do a search for it and grab a 6 pk and some popcorn. Its MUCH debated here. I think it cures the swine flu also...

 

Haha now I feel stupid. I thought about putting that in the last reply. I'm going to have a drink now. I've heard great things about it. I will be using that next. Wish they had it in stores around town, they would dominate for sure.

 

Are you still under warranty? If so, it may be easier on you to take it in unless you have a code reader like the autoenginuity. To me it sounds like an injector issue and they are somewhat complicated to troubleshoot without the right tools.

An easy thing to check would be wire harness chaffing.

Wire Chaffing Locations
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...ad.php?t=58336
FICM and ICP harness recall
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/photographs/index1.php
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-05-13.php
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-05-13.php
mms://multimedia.ford.com/seopts/Tech12_250k.wmv
http://turbodieselforums.com/downloa...%20chafing.pdf
http://turbodieselforums.com/downloa...re%20Chafe.pdf

Wire Chafing Issues:
A variety of driveability issues can arise from chafing/shorting wiring, such as crank/no-start, stall, running rough, misfire, buck/jerk or lack of power. The most common location for this is the valve cover/cover bolts near the FICM or the intake manifold bolts where the harness routes under the air intake hose. The harness should be rerouted and any chafe points insulated with rubber vacuum caps. Other chafe problems can occur where the sensor harnesses route around the valve covers, thermostat housing, idler pulleys, glow plug relay bracket, and near the accelerator pedal assembly (adjustable pedals), and also near the PCM by the battery and near the relay box brackets at the left rear corner of the engine compartment. On Econolines, also inspect at the top edge of the computer, along the oil dipstick tube bracket and auxiliary A/C lines. Broadcast Messages 1407 and 3077.

The harness will need to be pushed and pulled to determine if the harness is shorting out.

 

Also - what oil do you use (and how often do you change)?

D8Chumley is right on target by changing to sytnthetic 5W-40.

If I were you, I would sample the oil and send it in to Blackstone for analysis. If you are getting fuel dilution, it can cause similar problems IIRC.

One easy injector test is described below. I can not attest to its accuracy in pinpointing a problem, but it seems to be an easy test:

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 582pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=776 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 582pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 28379" width=776><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: fuchsia; WIDTH: 582pt; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=17 width=776>From: luthrobediesel on FTE</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Pull the fuse cover under steering wheel with a flat blade screw driver turn the screws 1/4 of a turn. Pull fuses 20 FICM, 40 Fuel pump, and 103 PCM. You might need a fuse puller or needle nose pliers. Be sure there is fuel above the standpipe. If you want pull fuse 40 last and use the fuel pump momentarily to fill the fuel filter housing. Then have someone crank while you watch for bubbles. Do not crank on it for more than 10 seconds max. This is the easiest way to determine mechanical condition of injectors. What happens is combustion gas will come through the pintle seat and into the fuel gallery in the head and up into the filter.

 

^^^ You guys need to listen to this guy, he knows what he's talking about. Mark, you should be rep'd for almost every one of your posts.