Light Switch Problems!
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Light Switch Problems!
Ok, so today i replaced all the bulbs behind the gauges, the climate control, and the light and windshield switchs, im presuming this was normal; the switch would make a grinding noise when you would twist it to adjust the backlight, well now it doesnt grind and the backlights dont work, headlights work as well as the dome but when i twist it to turn on the gauge lights nothing happens,,what is wrong?
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Did you twist the new headlight switch before you put it in? Did it make a grinding noise? I had to replace my headlight switch as well, probably for the same reason as you. My new switch doesn't "grind" near as much as the old one. The action is much more smooth, but it does properly operate the backlight illumination. Since yours now doesn't, but does operate the other functions properly, I suspect that you either have the wrong switch or a faulty one. UNLESS, you forgot to put the new bulbs behind the gauges ;-)
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That makes more sense then. The original switch operates by rubbing a metal tab along a circular coil (the grinding when you twist it). My guess is, the increase in resistance through the coil as you twist increases and decreases the light intensity of your console. If the tab is no longer touching the coil then you lose that functionality. Losing that function of that switch is a common problem. Bad news is that those switches are a little pricey, IMO, for what it is. My Mac's catalog has it listed for $18.
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Joined: Jul 2004
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They are wired in Parallel. If one bulb goes out, the others stay lit.
If it was wired in series, if one bulb burned out, they would all fail to work.
It sounds like the headlamp switch is your culprit.
If it was wired in series, if one bulb burned out, they would all fail to work.
It sounds like the headlamp switch is your culprit.
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yeah,,i looked and autozone should have one in stock, ill change that out and if still the guage lights don't work ill likely punch the **** out of it then go find one online or something
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I don't know for sure but my guess is parallel since if you lose the first one in the series you won't lose the rest. I've never studied the printed circuit on the back of the gauge cluster though. Someone else may have a better answer for you there.
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