When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
You said,"all the way around on my 1950 F-1". You only have one lock on your '50, on the passenger side, don't you? If you have one on your driver's door then someone either replaced the door from a '51-52 Five Star cab or modified the stock door. The driver's side lock didn't show up until '51.
As for your ignition switch, if it's the original stock switch, and it works, keep it and either have the new lock re-keyed to match the switch or have the switch re-keyed to match the lock. No one makes an exact reproduction switch, as far as I know. There are replacement switches but they don't have the same smooth bezel.
You don't need to replace the whole ignition switch. LMC and other vendors have door lock cylinders and ignition switch cylinders that are key matched and allow you to replace all at once and have one key. You may even find a local locksmith that can do it for you
I just wanted to make a note about the '48-50 ignition switches, they have smooth, rounded bezel and it's hard to find an exact replacement. If you're not concerned about a stock appearance it's no big deal, there a many replacement switches, they just don't look the same, there bezels are usually a lot clunkier looking.
I'm with Bobby and Bob, use the original witch if possible. I originally was going to replace my ignition sw on my 50 but didn't care for the look, too clunky as Bob said. I did replace the start button with a later 53 style that provides me with " hot" contact to starter. I had my stock ig sw re-keyed; far nicer bezel. I've been toying with placing a lock on my driver door, but linkage parts are hard to come by, besides my rationale is I'm building a 50's truck to be a daily driver. Part of their "charm" is all the unique features they have; besides I don't want to alter it to much in case I ever want to get back to stock...you know they're never "done".
Just kind of adding my two cents to what Bobby (quite correctly) said above, and in case you miss a few key points in the post he gave you the link to.
I'm not sure what the circumstance are for your needing to replace all these - Shoot, maybe you are restoring a truck that doesn't have any yet.
The original ignition switches are VERY difficult to find, but also as mentioned, the replacements are not exactly the same as the stock switches. If you are not that keen on it being 100% (and they are close BTW) I might suggest you look at a 1956 switch. Reason is it has the spring loaded position for turning the starter as opposed to needing the starter button. If in the course of your restoration, you decide to elliminate the starter button, you will need the newer switch. If not you can always use that starter position to activate something on your truck that you want to use the key for. For example, I have a full fron tilt with an electric lift actuator. I use that start position to activate the hood lift actuator. That way you need the key to open my hood!!! I have a 56 switch in my 51 and it looks fine (but there again, I am using 56 bezels as well because I like those better). If you have the body of the switch, you can just buy the lock mechanism that goes in it. Here's mine withthe 56 set up.
But the other point that is very important to note is the differences in the door locks. If you go to the thread Bobby referenced, and look at my post #8, I posted pictres of the two different lock styles available. The newer locks do not have the stainless cover plate, and are available at MACS and C&G. The original style locks with the stainless steel flip cover are available at C&G and I'm not sure if MACS carries them. (and you might want to check both sites as the price difference for the locks between the two houses is substantial).
Why is this important. Eventhough you will be tempted to buy the newer style because they are less expensive, because the newer style locks use an different key type than the ignition switch bolts, they CAN NOT be rekeyed to match the ignition switch key!
If you want to have the door locks rekeyed to match your ignition key, you MUST get the original style lock and take it to a lock smith to be reset. If you have locks on both doors then, yes again, someone has slipped in a door bolt from a 51/52 Five Star Extra Cab. Both door locks are identical (note side particular).
If you have both (or all three) perhaps it would be prudent to take them to a locksmith to see if they can be cleaned and have the tumbler pins replaced rather than buy all new. They are extremely basic from a works perspective. Probably save some $$$ and keep things original.
Since the truck I'm working on didn't have an ignition switch at all, I'm thinking about going with this. I already bought a universal one from NPD but it just doesn't look right and the key is different.
Thanks all for the great information. Because I don't have any keys for the truck and I do like the original stuff, I believe I will be removing the locks and taking them to a locksmith. This seems like the best plan, it uses the old equipment when possible, and it also helps support local business.
The ignition switch that American Auto Wire has looks pretty close to the stock switch in the '48-50, at least a lot closer than any other I've seen. The '51-52 is slightly different, it has sharper lines than the smooth one in the earlier models.
Just from looking at the image it looks close on the outside but different on the inside dash part.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.