I seem to have a glitch in my ignition switch box or column.
most likely in the column itself.


whats the recommended course of action here?
contact cleaner and then white lithium grease in the column?


can WLG be used on the ignition switch box itself, that's bolted under the column?

 

What do you mean by "sticky"?

I just replaced the shifter column shaft, housings, and bushings in my truck and have a few remaining issues. There is not as much play, but I have trouble getting the key out after shifting into Park, and can no longer shift all the way down into 1st. It has not been a huge priority, but I'm told that I need to get under the truck and re-tension the cable from the cab on the transmission connection point. Consequently, for me, right now, "sticky" means a mechanical restriction to movement due to cable stretch and the corresponding low cable tension. Not sure if that might be your issue or not.

 

in my case when I start the truck the starter stays engaged.
I gotta turn it off and try to restart it.
when I put the ignition to "run" and jump the solenoid, I have no issues.
I don't suspect its an electrical issue, per say?
im inclined to believe its a mechanical restriction either in the box itself, or inbetween the lock cylinder and the box.


ive unbolted the box from the column, but I got called into work, hope to get back to it later.

 

when my ignition got sticky i had to replace the key cylinder and keys.

 

You can attempt to remove the cylinder and soak it in a degreaser, use some silicone spray and hope it returns to working normally. Otherwise a Cylinder Replacement may be necessary.

One thing about an older vehicle. no matter how clean it is, dirt and debris is hidden in every nook-and-cranny from years of exposure. As well as many materials degrading naturally like plastics and such.

 

ok, by way of elimination, I can say that I was dead wrong.
I took everything apart, cleaned it and put it back together,
it worked for 5 starts.
then it started happening again.
I changed the ignition box with a spare one I had and still no dice.
beginning to think I cooked the starter.
randomly after a few minutes of running or when I shut it off, it will engage.


ORRRRRR.....something that just came to me.
I have not grounded the cab.
having issues with my driverside window, and turn signals too...
more items for the check list!

 

DeOxit D5.

Use the straw, spray directly into the cylinder. You may have to move the little "door" if it has one (?) so you can get the straw in there.

Give it a good soaking, then work the key. It will take care of lubing the cylinder, breaking up grease and junk, and cleaning any contacts and pins (both lock or electrical).

Safe for wiring and insulation, doesn't make it brittle.

Caveats:

1. Disconnect battery so you can move the key without hitting starter, etc

2. Whatever you spray in will come out somewhere. Have a rag handy. It can be wiped up just like any cleaner, but don't let it on your clear plastic or upholstery.


I've done this on quite a few pieces of equipment. Sometimes it takes a time or two, but REALLY saved the hassle of replacing ignition keysets

 

The ignition cylinder/key is not electrical. It is just a mechanical way to turn the electrical switch behind the cylinder. No matter how much you spray into the cylinder, it will not get to the ignition switch.

 

Yeah, the electrical "ignition switch" is a big plastic enclosed slide. But the key cylinder is mechanical.

I did throw in both electrical and mechanical stuff, though, to show its full benefits.

Sorry if that wasn't clear, thanks for the correction

 

IDIiot, here is product that I have used on a lot of locks, doors and many other items. It has really done a good job for me and does not damage plastics.
It's called Houdini Lock Lube. I get it on Amazon, great stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/HOUD1-Houdini...dini+Lock+Lube

Ed

 

thanks guys for all your responses! im still in deep with this issue along with a few others since my cab swap.
I had thought I had it all covered, but its very apparent that im missing a few things.
my windows, door locks, and dash lights wont work,


ive been trying to check for grounds that have been disconnected and not reconnected since the rebuild. but without expensive manuals, im just chasing the proverbial tail.
I have passenger battery grounded to the engine and chassis.
engine to cowl, front support to chassis, drivers side batt to front support and engine


I have cleaned the lock cylinder and ignition box as much as I could, and even replaced the ignition box, however issues still persist.
I just ordered a powermaster starter, because I swear by them,


I will continue to get after it until its complete!
I will up date you what I find.

 

If you are not certain if your problem is in the column or the ignition switch, you can take the switch off from the column. With the switch wiring still plugged in, you can slide the pin into the different positions. You will be able to feel the detents, and the start position will spring back on its own to run. You will actually be able to start the truck from this switch alone. If everything works smoothly as it should, then your column needs attention. Most of the time the problem is the switch.

 

I did this the other day, the key in the column works freely. no restrictions.
the switch box, while unbolted from the column returns to run after "start"
but would still back feed to the starter solenoid.
so I replaced the box, and had the same results.
yesterday morning I added a few more grounds to the truck, and I havnt had the issue again, granted its only 3-4 starts and letting it run to get up to temp.
im crossing my fingers that this problem is solved. I will keep the powermaster starter I ordered on the shelf until needed.
im still fighting electrical gremlins with the power windows, door locks, and other little items.
hope to get these solved today

 

and no dice.
cold started just fine this morning. and about 30 seconds into running the starter started engaging again.
I turned it off, and started it back up, as it should, but when I turned it off, I heard it grind.
ill change that starter and the solenoid, just in case.

 

what a bone head I am.
when putting things back together, I accidently put the GPM on the incorrect stud of the starter solenoid on the pass fender support.
which leads directly to the solenoid on the starter.
12V would back feed through the module and cause what I was seeing...
atleast I think that was the issue.
after connecting it correctly my CEL went off as well.
doh!