Happy New Year, almost, everyone. I am attempting to fix a bad leak at the pitman arm on my '94 ranger, 2.3. I got a pitman arm puller from Discount Auto and after removing the nut (33mm) and split washer, I began. The arm did not budge. I got out a 2 ft. cheater bar and promptly broke a tip of the puller's arm off, still the arm doesn't budge. I was trying to take it off and just replace the lower seals while it is in the truck, as my son is heading back to school this weekend. If I have to remove the whole steering box I could, but the shops around here are closed for the holidays. I'm sure one of them could get it off for me, but he will be gone with the truck by them. I have the whole rebuild kit, so I am ready on that front.

Another option, although a 50.00 one, is to buy a used box and rebuild it. Then I would just have to swap the boxes out next time I can get at the truck. But who wants to spend 50 when you don't have to? And I have to assume the used box is sound.

Ideas? Thanks

 

Try spraying some penetrating oil or pb blaster or something similar (your favorite rust breaker) all around the shaft & pitman arm. Also you might try leaving the puller on the gearbox & pitman arm with a lot of tension on it, for a while. Like a half hour or more. That way it may pop loose without someone getting upset about it if it doesn't come off just right now. That's the way the last one came apart that I worked on. I just let it sit with a lot of tension on it and worked on something else in the garage for a while and then I heard a heavy noise like a big hammer hitting some really solid thick metal. When I went to look at the puller it had loosened enough that the pitman arm came the rest of the way off with a ratchet on the puller. Let us know how it goes.

 

Thanks for the reply and ideas. I will try the PB Blaster. My son uses it every day at school (like 220 miles away), so I can't leave it in tension very long. Next time I can work on it (couple of weeks) I will try that though. Maybe put the puller on first thing in the morning. Does the fact that I did not disconnect the tie rod/ball joint at the steerng have anything to do with it. I was thinking it may have bound up the pitman arm to still be attached to the steering linkage also?

 

If you had a Chiltons Manual, the first thing that they tell you is to remove steering linkage(drag link), and then to remove pitman arm...They can be a bear!!!

 

I don't need no manual....I have you guys

Actually, I think a manual would be a good idea.

 

Update. The steering box is fixed. This is doable, but I assure you it is a PITA. I gave up trying to remove the arm after breaking the tips on two pullers. I had tried the spray on loosening stuff and tried leaving it under tension, for 4 days. I tried the spray, the tension and hitting it on the side with a hammer, no good. I took it to a local fix it shop and he tried. No good. I drove to another shop and they had it most of the day. The guy said they ended up using a torch to heat it up and then it finally came off.

Then I got the fun of jacking it up on one side and removed the pitman arm. When I did that, the steering linkage slid out of the way enough for me to work on it. I did not have to disconnect the linkage from the arm. The snap ring came out, in two pieces. The seals were not easy to get out. I bought four quarts of fluid and put a clean pan underneath. I started the truck and turned the wheel from side to side. The fluid came out fast and the first seal was low enough to pull out with my pick. I reused the same fluid and the next seal was harder. It took about 20 quarts (recycled) to get it to come down. I cleaned it up and re-installed the two new seals and the new snap ring. Re-assembly was faster and I had to make sure the splines were matched up, while keeping the steering wheel centered.

No leaks for a week now. Oh yah, I refilled it with the new fluid. Thanks again for the help. If I had to do it all again, I would remove the steering box and be done with it. Live and learn I guess.

 

Glad you got it fixed. I take the nut and washer off and soak the splines with PB or its equal and then take a two good size ball peen hammers and use one on the back side of the pitman and pound the opposite side with the other working as far around all sides as possible I call this the warm up. Then I put the pitman arm puller on and suck it down tight then smack the bolt head of the puller with a 3 lb hammer this usually gets it done if it doesn't come the first time then then tighten the puller a liitle more. And yes when they come they will scare the **** out of you.
When replacing the seals make sure and turn the steering wheel up against the locks and hold there and let it squeal this means it is making max pressure and the seal will usually BLOW out on the first or second try.

 

Good info. I don't have any big hammers, just the regular framing type. The sqeeling thing is hard for me to listen to, not being from the ga woods and all..