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Well tonight(first time running the new toy at night) I noticed the GEN lamp on in the dash. So while running I pulled the Neg battery cable and found it stumbled briefly until reattaching the cable. The thought of upgrading the thing to an Alternator is certainly on the table. Can someone shed some light on what all is involved with this conversion ? I'm hoping to weigh the option of generator repair (if necessary) against the conversion. Any suggestions for verifying the generator isn't the culprit are welcome, never owned anything with a generator before.
Bobby, I don't know if that isn't what generators do. Try it again and give the engine a little gas and see if it doesn't respond a little better. Alts are a big improvement over generators, at low rpms they don't put out much. You should be able to focus the lights on a building at night and let the engine idle and give it a light rev and see the lights brighten, and back dimmer when it slows again.
Should the GEN dummy light in the dash be on ? I have always had the alt light come on when one of several things happen that are basically the alt not working/up to par. Ground issues would flicker, bad alt solid light and the engine dies if a battery cable is removed.
That is kinda a tricky statement, the vehicle runs off the battery, the alt. charges the battery. The engine should continue to run with the battery disconnected, even when removed from the vehicle.
You can get a "1 wire Alternator" from Summit or Jegs that is just what it sounds like.
Simply connect a single wire to your battery and your done.
You can get one thats rated at 100 Amps for $80-90.
You could easily spend that on the voltage regulator and rebuild kit.
I'm not sure, but I think you can make a later 300 alt. bracket work.
I installed one on my 1972 Datsun 240Z, and it actually ran smoother. I guess from the more stable voltage at idle.
Good luck.
In a truck equipped with a generator, it is not unusal for the "gen" light to "glow" when the truck is idling. The generator needs substanial rpm to charge it's full potential which is usually no more than 45 amps. I replaced the genrator in my 64 with a 60 amp DR SI three wire. I used a 1 wire in my 56 but decided to go with the 3 wire in the truck. A 1 wire requires a quick "kick" in rpm on starting to excite the field. After that it acts like a 3 wire. Normal alternators will charge at least 1/2 potential at idle. The 3 wire also allows one to "control" voltage output by running a wire to a more apropriate source (i.e. the starter solinod) rather than monitor voltage at the alterantor output terminal which is what a 1 wire does.
FYI, the glow of the "glow" gen light and then disconnect the battery will deliver very low voltage to the ignition coil at idle and therefore result in engine missfire.
OK I know there are the fancy Summit stuff that frankly aint to expensive. But to upgrade to the same thing that is on the 66 ? Lot of rewiring or ? My end goal in having to Slicks was to have trucks that could be parts trucks in case of the SNAFU week. Might should have bought the other 66' that was for sale? LOL... NAHHH!!!
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