I will have to look into some old notes to know or find out the exact dimension of the spacer. I simply hooked up the brakelines and placed the calipers over the rotors and applied pressure to them. This held the bracket in the proper place and then a measurement was taken for the spacer(s). This method can also be used to weld the brackets if you chose to weld.
I will obtain these dimensions for you if you need.

I did have to clear the rotor, and did not want to use anything other than a stock rotor. If by any chance that I have to replace a rotor on the trial, I wanted to be able to use an over the counter rotor. ELiminating any modifications means that I can buy a rotor at a local parts house and anything with htis application would fit without having to be modified.
Probably not ever gonna have a problem, but I wanted to make sure, and do not want to modify any rotors in the future. I suppose if I find a rotor that already had a machined center it would still fit, so I am a winner either way.
Again, this is on a D70. The backside of the hub is about 1/8" too large to fit through the stock rotor. Some folks machine the rotor, but this does not seem reasonable to me. Seems like a better alternative to remove the material form the hub itself.
I am not sure of the D60 has to be machined. I do not believe that it does. I know the 14B's do not. You might be ok.

Try this for a reference. This is the dimensions for the bracket. Be prepared to make slight changes, but this will get you in the ballpark:
http://www.moparmudder.com/images/bracket%20print.pdf

 

Well with luck the D60 will clear the rotor. I came across a thread, which had an actual picture of this bracket before and after it was welded. I have a good mental picture of what needs to be done now. The calipers are from a 76-78 Eldorado. The rotors are from a Chevy K20, but not sure what years just yet. Maybe you can shine some light on that for me. Another thing how much did you machine off of your hub?

 

I tool just over an 1/8" off of the diameter of the inside of the hub. While I used a lathe to do this, I have seen some that were done with a grinder. This is not a critical part of the hub, and this does not center the rotor in any way. I am confident that the D60 stuff will clear, though I am not one to use anything D60 out back. I have used D60HD's, and made my own using either an aftemarket 9" FF spindle or a D70 Spindle to clear 35 spline axles. I am not a fan of the stock 30 spline D60 axles. They break too easy and are a waste of time and money for my application.

As far as rotors are concerned, you can use any late 70's rotor, I believe that I use a 77 or 78 rotor. Anyway, they are all about the same. I have heard of others using a later 80's Ford front rotor, and this has a deeper hat which makes the bracket a little easier to weld, but again I use bolt on brackets.
Once you get the stuff apart, it gets pretty easy, you cant really go wrong.
If you weld, just make sure that the bracket is on stright and square, or you will bind the brake pads and wear them out.

 

The D60 should be fine for my standards at the moment, considering I don't do any hardcore driving. I learned how expensive playing hard can be. I owned a 91 Ford Explorer with the TTB front and 36" swamper TRXUS. I would have saved alot of money just swapping in a solid axle after the first time I rebuilt the TTB. Once again I really apreciate your help and will be doing this swap once some of this snow starts clearing, so I will post pics of my truck and the progress soon.

-Thanks