Thanks Borgman but what does that mean to a novice sensor tracker downer fixer. Plus I do not believe I have a speed sensor but could be wrong.

One thing that I did notice is that the bracket that holds the coil is no longer mounted to the engine. It is just laying on the block. Not sure it was ever in the right spot and it looks like it had issues before, (wires and some connections have a silver paste on them???). I didn't do it so not sure there.

This will be my first order of business and then we will go from there.

 

I have also been looking at other places for codes explanations. One suggests that it is the throttle position sensor. Could this be the culprit? I plan on testing it tonight, weather permitting.

 

[quote=truckhound;6941265]

I was able to manually pull codes. Need major help:

KOEO

1 2 1 2 4 5 2 2 1 2 4 5 2

Long pause then 1 1 1 1 1


My '90 does 2 digit codes. I would think yours does too.
You might be throwing the codes as
21
24
52
and then repeated
21= Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor out of range
24= Intake Air Temperature (IAT) or Vane Air Temperature (VAT) sensor out of range
52= Power Steering Pressure Switch/circuit open
(R) Did you turn wheel during test ?
Since it is really cold there, I would not be suprised to see 21, and 24.
Don't think these codes are helping find the problem.

I'm really guessing here, but your description of switching to the front fuel pump, which is known to be bad, and it starts, makes me think perhaps your rear fuel pump is over pressurizing the system.
You can do a quick check on your fuel pressure regulator by just pulling the vacum line off and if it has gas in it or smells strongly of gas, it is bad. If it doesn't it MIGHT be ok. You are going to need a gauge to be sure.
Another possibility could be a restricted return fuel line. Maybe it froze and won't let the fuel return to the tank, and over pressured the fuel rail.
Is it possible to get this truck inside to thaw out good?
Please let us know how this turns out.
Good Luck Frank

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I did not turn the wheel and that is why I asked for help on the codes as I found what you did. Initially I thought about the pressure regulator, especially when it starts on a dead pump and also starts after sitting for some time. I plan on checking with a gage when I can find one to borrow.

Would a faulty regulator cause it to cough / backfire and stumble on acceleration? This is before it completely died. If I was going down the street and needed to speed up it would cough, backfire (not loud) and then stumble to get going. Could it have been going out and not giving enough pressure, then went out and is flooding the system?

No chance to get it in where it is warm. I can only drive it a couple of blocks before it dies and I don't have a garage.

 

I think a bad FPR could cause the problems you describe.
Some guys have sucessfully checked the pressure just using a regular tire gauge. Just get one that goes high enough. It might ruin the gauge, but they are really cheap.
My understanding of the way the FPR fails is normally it gets a small hole in the diaphragm, and that causes the fuel pressure to go high at idle and low engine speed. Plus the vacum line is sucking a small amount of gas into the intake. Both of these conditions make the engine run rich, if it runs.
Frank

 

I replaced the FPR, what a major pain in the @#$. Drove it around the block and it seems to have fixed the problem. Still have the codes to deal with but it looks like it is running and moving. I am not going to try any further until it is light out.