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lifter or pushrod?

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Old Dec 19, 2008 | 11:09 PM
  #1  
istfordinmylife's Avatar
istfordinmylife
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lifter or pushrod?

I have a 69 390 f-250. During the past two weeks I started to hear a knock on the passenger side of the engine. I haven't ran the engine much since, but yesterday when I started and warmed the engine, it was very noticable as I revved slightly and held. Is there a way to tell for sure what it is. A shop says it is a lifter and I should replace all of them.. Can you help with some info?
Thanks
 
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Old Dec 19, 2008 | 11:32 PM
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Could be either or even the cam lobe gone or a rocker gone bad or a valve end bad. You won't now until you tear it down.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2008 | 11:37 PM
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Get yourself a long handled screwdriver, piece of wood, 3/4" heater hose, anything. What you are going to do with it is use it as a stethoscope. Keep away from the working exterior stuff so you do not get into a fight. Place it everyplace on the engine that you can reach, when the noise is louder (or when you hear it in both ears) that means you have somewhat isolated the noise. It is possible that a knock is not the lifters doing that. I think they typically make a clicking noise instead of a knock. Something also to do is this. Acquire a pair of spark plug wire boot pullers, while the motor is running, pull each individual wire at the plug. If/when the noise goes away, you have isolated which cylinder is the offender. You can pull the valve cover off while it is running. If a lifter is bad, it might show up when you use your calibrated measuring device (your eyeball) to make sure all the valves have the same amount of travel. Some cams have different lift for the intake and exhaust, but not too crazy extreme. Look at your pushrods, make sure they are straight.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 04:18 AM
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when you pull the plug wire and it stops knocking, if it is a knock, it is likely a wrist pin bushing, especially if it is loud at idle and quietens some with increased rpm
 
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 09:22 AM
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Thanks for all the info. It is louder and rattlier as the rpm is raised and held. If I just goose it and release, I here the knock pronounced on the decelleration.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 09:36 AM
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One other thing.

These engines did not come from the factory with exhaust manifold gaskets, only the steel heat shields were installed.

So the ticking you hear, could be an exhaust manifold leak.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 09:43 AM
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I hope it isn't the lower end!?
 
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 09:51 AM
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It noise sounds like the top. There are some old headers on the engine that appear to have been siliconed up. The knock showed up two weeks ago after I had someone pull and reseal the intake because he found a intake leak. I told him that noise wasn't there before and he said, the lifters need time to fill with oil.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 12:26 PM
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I bet a dollar he put the bolts in the wrong spot when he attached the rocker arm assembly?

Does it sound like this?

 
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by istfordinmylife
It noise sounds like the top. There are some old headers on the engine that appear to have been siliconed up. The knock showed up two weeks ago after I had someone pull and reseal the intake because he found a intake leak. I told him that noise wasn't there before and he said, the lifters need time to fill with oil.

Can you say "BS!"
 
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 07:44 PM
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FE lifters are known to bleed down after a few days...and even an older set can bleed down in a few hours...But when the motor starts pumping oil just after start..I have never heard one rattle or clack...after 30 secs or so... At (MAX).... So it sounds like your not getting as mentioned above proper oiling thru the rocker shaft bolts..

If it was a shop that did it..Take the damn thing back...and tell them what you were told by some FE specialist ! and have them do the job right !! FE's arent built like any other motor out there..and If a wrench doesnt know FE's..he should just leave well enough alone!! JMO..

~Russ
 
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by RapidRuss
FE's arent built like any other motor out there..and If a wrench doesnt know FE's..he should just leave well enough alone!! JMO..

~Russ
Seconded "cause I seen the proof in the pudding, here and abroad" Hope it works out 4 yaZ
 
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 11:53 PM
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istfordinmylife's Avatar
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I had an operation on my back this past year and I"m not suppose to do alot of bending or lifting. I would have done it myself but the local shop gave me a real good deal. (some deal). Are there extra threaded holes that can be used to fasten the rocker rail down incorrectly as Beavis suggests? I do know that there is a torqueing sequence for the rocker rail. If that is the case, Can I just pull off the valve cover and reset the rail? Thanks all
 
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 12:45 AM
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One bolt in each rocker shaft is shaped with a smaller diameter in the middle of the bolt, so that oil can get past it. If a standard bolt is in the oil feed stand, it restricts oil flow to the rockers. Just pull the valve cover and loosen the rocker shaft bolts, then make sure the odd bolt is in the stand with the oil feed hole in the head. Just screw the bolts down evenly so you don't flex the shaft too much.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 11:20 AM
  #15  
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Thanks Bear, This is very good information. It is something that I will be able to check myself. I should be able to figure it out once I get in there. It's been a few years. All of the Info is great.
 
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