need help with a pinging problem
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Renton, WA
mrhorsepower67, All good stuff from the other guys on the EGR. One thing to add when you take out those plugs it souds like you know to pay attention to a color on the porcelain, but in your case you need to also take a look at the negative electrode, look for it being blued/discolored from excessive heat, if that thing is discolored it may be a hot spot and a source of the ping. The negative electrode being discolored is also a very strong indicator of an exsesive lean condition, witch is what a bad EGR many times will cause.
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Junior User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 78
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From: Buffalo N.Y.
egr...pinging
I got the same jinx as all you....but that Egr valve position sensor, or EVP, EVR, or EGRC, has nothing too do with it?........Ill put an an EGR in all day long but they said make sure you check them first?............I dont know.....I am just gonna try the EGR itself. Thanks a lot guys....yous are always the best.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: covington wa.
Just a thought.
I was told that if you have a TFI (Thick Film Ignition I beleive) you should not attemp to adjust the timing as you my damage the componants, The timing is all done electronically by your computer with all the inputs from variouse sensors and stuff. Try going to
FORDFUELINJECTION.COM and reading about what I was saying it my give you some insite on your pinging problem.
I was told that if you have a TFI (Thick Film Ignition I beleive) you should not attemp to adjust the timing as you my damage the componants, The timing is all done electronically by your computer with all the inputs from variouse sensors and stuff. Try going to
FORDFUELINJECTION.COM and reading about what I was saying it my give you some insite on your pinging problem.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,555
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From: Concord, NC
The base timing still has to be set on TFI systems (all EFI trucks in the year range of this forum). The computer advances blindly from the base timing, so if the base advance is incorrect, timing advance will never be correct at any operating condition.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 500
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From: Angleton Tx.
The cure for mine, I had to change the tube that goes from the manifold to the EGR. Mine was cracked and kinked, so it wasnt flowing enough. I replaced that from FORD $91.00
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Freshman User
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Ok I working on the same issue right now. I don't have any vacuum at the EGR valve and no power at the EGR Vacuum Solenoid.
So I was thinking if the EGR valve is stuck open then I would not get any power at the EGR Vacuum Solenoid... right?
if I unplug the EGR postion Sensor will that power up the vacuum solenoid.
Thanks
Dan
So I was thinking if the EGR valve is stuck open then I would not get any power at the EGR Vacuum Solenoid... right?
if I unplug the EGR postion Sensor will that power up the vacuum solenoid.
Thanks
Dan
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,555
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From: Concord, NC
There should be 12V at the EVR solenoid with the key turned on. The computer pulse width modulates the ground side of the EVR to vary EGR opening. I don't think the EVP sensor has any control over the computer activating the EVR.
Freshman User
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Thanks so my next question then would be where is the fuse. I tested a bunch of them but there could be one missing from the former owner who hacked all kinds of stuff
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Concord, NC
The circuit that powers the EVR also powers the fuel injectors, the TAD and TAB solenoids, the coil, and the engine computer. That comes from the EEC relay, which on my 87 is fed by a fusible link. I'm thinking newer trucks used fuses, but I don't know.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 484
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From: SC lowcountry
In 95 the subject power comes from fuse #1 in engine compartment fuse box thru the PCM power relay to a splice, then to EVR,IAC, AIRB sol fuel injectors and Evap canister purge solenoid. Just remember they had 2 years to change this.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 566
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From: Virginia
Why would you increase the timing to 12 degrees btdc? That will make it more likely to detonate (ping). Set it back to 10 degrees and see if it still pings. If so, you want to retard the ignition timing. You'll want to go down to 8 degrees or something similar.
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