I have a 97 F-250 HD with a 460 fi, e-4od trans, 4 wh drive. I tryed many things too get this truck running good...(not skimping on the money) A lot of the upgrades I did came from here, and listening too your discussions. Ok...heres how the truck sits now.....(ive had a pinging problem and terrible gas mileage from day 1). First I started with a full tune up....(cap seems too corrode or burn up quick..changed it 3 times already with good ones), new wires..(autolite proff. series, and autolite platinum plugs), put on a cold air intake, throttle body spacer, high flow cat straight back no mufflers, dual outlets, MSD ign coil, and even set the timing too 12, unstead of ten....like many of you suggested. I have no check engine light, but no matter what grade of gas I use....usually 89.....but tryed 93....even tryed octane booster....cant get rid of that horrible ping once and a while. The truck runs great but I mostly notice it if I am cruising speeds..(especially on the thruway)....everything is ok till I hit it too pass someone or pick up speed , then its "shots fired".....pinging till I let out of it. This truck was very well maintained all its life......(I think I have OCD..because Ill change stuff even if it doesnt have too be changed). Someone suggested the EGR...but looked into it, and theres also parts that control the egr, before the egr....I just want some suggestions if anyone has been there.
You guys always come through one way or another. Could you maybe have an idea with this one.....because someone told me take it too one of them 500 dollar diagnostic places that they will hook it up and give you suggestions. Gas prices are high....and I am sick of putting in 93 octane with a 5 dollar bottle of octane boost in both tanks. I would greatly appreciate any replies..........THANKS........OH and just so you know, I get about 6 miles too the gallon right now. I know there pigs, but its worth it, but maybe I can get this thing on a diet.

 

Okay, that ignition system is not designed for platinum plugs. Replace them with standard MOTORCRAFT COPPER(not AUTOLITE) plugs. When you adjusted the timing did you remove the spout? If not you may actually have it set higher than 12DBTDC.

 

only thing i can see wrong is as pfogle has stated i would change the plugs to motorcraft brand, and he sems to be right about most things hes helped me alot, most recently when my motor siezed up

 

Set the timing back to 10° as well. That should eliminate some of the pinging.

 

All of the above statements are good I would add going colder on the plugs, and running some seafoam thru it. EPNCSU2006 and I just had a discusion about the EGR and pinging/knock in this thread check it out.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-throttle.html

 

Thanks, I did not know about the platinum plugs. So motorcraft are the best too use? When I pull these autolites out, will anything tell me about them that somethings wrong?.....Ohhh...and yes I did remove the pip connector locatede on the inner fender near module. Noticed the difference in readings when I did. Well Ill try the spark plug replacement. Is that motorcraft plain spark plugs work best in them motors?

 

Yep, just regular old motorcraft plugs. The TFI ignition is a great system but they don't do well with the platinum tips.

 

When you pulled the plugs what color are they? white or brown or black?

 

Motorcraft plugs are made by Autolite, so get the one that is easier to find.

 

I did not know that about thet platinum plugs. I put those in my truck, I guess I need to change them out again then, maybe that is what is cuasing my Spark Knock

 

If your cap/rotor are corroding there could a high resistance from the cap to your plugs and wires. Oil vapors could be getting by the distributer shaft and getting into the cap.
regards
rikard

 

I reread your posts and put a little more thought into it. I beleive the issue with the short lifespan of the cap and rotor is not related to the pinging and poor mileage but is due to poor ignition componants, more later.

You stated that changing your fuel doesn't effect the ping. This statement if true is the most telling octane rating is specific to the fuels resistance to pre-ignition (ping, knock, detonation). If upping the octane doesn't effect the ping I think there is something else going on. What is hard to say, EGR maybe, an EGR stuck open could lead to a ping and would kill your mileage and power. Valve train, it is possable for lifters to "pump up" holding the valves open, this happens when there is a combination of a lose valvetrain and high oil pressure or sometimes is brought on by a change to synthetic oil. And of course are you sure what you are hearing is a ping and not an exaust leak, or any other of the many noises engines make.

As to ignition, yes get regular plugs, get them cold (if ya don't know what that means ask). Make sure the cap has brass contacts not aluminum, I like the MSD stuff. Get better wires, all regular type wires have too much resistance MSD and Taylor make 50ohm wires, I like the Taylors.

Edit; just had a better thought on what the problem could be. A plugged exaust. When you had the exaust done did they make a Y-pipe. Many exaust shops will make a Y-pipe by torching a hole in the side of one pipe then welding another up to the hole. BUT many exaust guys are lazy and stupid (I worked exaust for a while) and when they torch the hole they don't make it big enough,I've seen some that are only an 1 1/2" in a 3" pipe. The restriction from this at high rpm and throttle could be causing excessive back pressure leading to all kinds of nastiness.

 

All great suggestions....thank you very much. When they did the exhaust....I watched the dude the whole time, yes a y pipe was made...(well they had them made already..said thats what they do on there spare time)...but it was nice....no restrictions. The rest of the exhust can not be restricted...I know that.....3 inch from crossovers too "brand new" 3 inch high flow cat from BEARRIVER.....and two 2 and a half pipes back no mufflers. The cap....I just replaced again with an MSD. The wires are autolite proffessional series...(they sounded ok too buy) . The plugs...I didnt get them autolite platinums out of there yet or check one. But if I recall, when I did change them last....they all looked ok.....no black for sure...I think a little grayish though, but nothing really bad. And for sure no exhaust leakes...pinged before I had exhaust done....and ...no synthetic oil, Castrol 10 40. Im glad you mentioned all that oppossum....because I was aiming at tht EGR also. I was gonna get one..(pretty $60), no problem, but the guy at the parts store told me theres something that actuates that egr...(some block with some vacuum tubes)....he said too check that first...because they are both the same price.....and too tell you the the truth I was about too just buy both, but figured Id ask you guys first. Is there any way too check that egr...or that other thing? Dont know what too do...id hate too spend 180 and still have it ping. Got any suggestions on that EGR opossum? That seafoam thing...what the heck is that? Oh and I gotta get them motorcraft plugs....thanks again

 

Just change the EGR valve thats got to be it, every rig i have had that had pinging problems it was that damn EGR valve. once bought a 86 t bird for 300.00$, the owner" gave up on it" because of pinging problems, put 25.00 EGR valve in it, drove it for 5 years w/ no pinging. as far as i know its STILL running.

 

You can ground the green wire of the EGR solenoid to force the valve open momentarily. If the idle speed and quality change, the valve is working. If not, you'll have to check to see if the valve itself is stuck, the control solenoid is not working, or if there is a vacuum leak in between the two. The valve itself isn't always the problem.