Where are you getting your parts? What plugs and wires are you running. What is the best band for your buck for a coil up grade. I'm not looking for a hot rod, just a stronger better running rig....

 

Go with the Pertronix Ignitor II and Flamethrower coil. It will run under $200 for the upgrade and you won't have to mess with points any more. I got the setup for my 62 Falcon and it works great. Starts easier runs better and gets a few more miles per tank.

 

I have the pertronix ignitor and coil, and I'm running autolite 46 spark plugs with motorcraft wires (I think you can still get them from Ford). Best bang for my buck was getting the timing set right. Ditch the timing light and go with you ear on that one...

 

Where did ya'll get the pertronix? I need one for my 63 and 73

 

I bought my Pertronix unit & coil at the local CarQuest. They had it right there on the shelf.

 

Hey Matt2491, Did you ever solve the problem of excelleration? I thought I remember you saying when you got on it, it would hesitate. But if you eased into it it was fine. What did you do to solve that situation?

 

You know gangsta, two years ago I found my truck buried in the basement of an old textiles mill in Lawrence, MA. At that time, if you asked me what the difference was between a straight axle and independent front suspension, I honestly couldn’t tell you. But in the last couple of years I have learned so much about the roots of automobiles and the progressive engineering behind it all that I feel as if I am now a real part of and contributor to the vintage & classic automotive world. I still couldn’t tell you how my Mom’s 2002 Toyota Camry works (you know I’m talking about the computers and all that), but you could ask me practically anything about my ’64 Ford truck or most classic vehicles in general and I could probably give you a very decent and helpful answer. In fact, I just finished modifying a later model 4spd overdrive truck transmission to fit behind the old 292. I also swapped in a rebuilt third member with limited slip & 3.00:1 gears. I even learned how to use machines like the lathe I made the custom pilot bushing and throwout bearing collar out of. So, as one can see, I went from knowing virtually nothing about auto mechanics to engineering a new drivetrain that resolved the problem I had with highway cruising (or lack thereof). Two years ago I would have laughed in your face if you asked me to change the transmission oil.

Having said all that, I will now say that I believe the 292 in the truck right now has some serious issues with it. It sure doesn’t run right, like there’s a hole in a piston(s) or something. I don’t know what it is but something about the way the motor idles, runs, and responds under load just tells me its not putting out the power as well as it should, and definitely not as efficiently (fuel mileage *ouch). In other words, its not just a worn out old engine, but something that needs major attention. Not only does it go through a quart of oil almost every month, but it has bad chatter problems when slipping the clutch to get moving (either from the oil leak onto the plates or a warped flywheel), and it squeals like a bitch almost all the time. Did I mention that it doesn’t make the power you’d expect from even an old stock motor, forgetting the fact that I installed headers and electronic ignition…

So anyways, in response to your question, no I haven’t yet dug into the motor to find out what the real story behind it’s terrible performance is, but that is the next highest priority on the long list of to-do items. You can bet I will get it running right soon, whether I rebuild it, swap it out, or whatever happens. Once the engine is fixed up and reliable, the truck will then be a REAL joy to drive. I can’t wait!

 

2xcrash, matt2491, don't give up on your 292's. Consider this, these engines have mechanical valve lifters and adjustable rocker arms. Valve adjustment is critical to good/great performance. Your engines were built to run on LEADED gasoline, the lead acted as a cushion between the valve face and valve seat. Run UNLEADED gas as we all do today and the face and seat begin to hammer out and the valve spring pulls the valve higher torward the rocker arm and the clearence is reduced to where the valve doesn't close and seal completely or at the correct time. Do a by the book adjustment of your valves and while the covers are off look between the coils of the valve springs to see if you valve stemseals are broken and gone or brittle and alowing oil down the stems, common cause of oil consumption. Also oil returns to the pan at the front and rear of the cyl head's, make sure the drain passges are not blocked of with sludge. There is more to say, if interested I'll say, tell me
IICAP