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Hey guys just turned 100,339 mile in my 7.3l. Basically engine starts when cold, but when it gets warmed up and i turn the engine off, when i go to start it again, it often will not start. this doesnt happen every time. I turn the key the glo plugs come on fuel and oil pumps come on, but when i go to start it no power gets to starter. maybe alternator?? I just had it into ford for the cam sensor recall, and was maybe wondering if that had something to do with it. any suggestions are appreciated.
could be the starter solenoid is getting too hot... if you don't hear the starter solenoid clicking over when it won't start, this is most likely your problem.
does it spin fast or slow like the batteries are low ,if slow take starter off and jump it with jumper cables and see if it still spins slow ,if so then get a new starter ,very common problem .
Hey guys just turned 100,339 mile in my 7.3l. Basically engine starts when cold, but when it gets warmed up and i turn the engine off, when i go to start it again, it often will not start. this doesnt happen every time. I turn the key the glo plugs come on fuel and oil pumps come on, but when i go to start it no power gets to starter. maybe alternator?? I just had it into ford for the cam sensor recall, and was maybe wondering if that had something to do with it. any suggestions are appreciated.
I agree with everyone, sounds like a starter, if you want to verify, knock a couple of decent times with a hammer, it most likely will start..
Just to think out of the box, if it's an auto, sometimes the gear selector has slack and won't let the starter click over. But if you hear the starter solinoid click, most likely a bad connection, or starter.
to expand on why I suspect the batts, when your truck sits for a good while the batts naturally have a tendency to regain some of their lost charge, this explains why its eaisier to start when cold, it has more than 10.5V going to the IDM which is the minimum required. Your Alternator is also probably failing. Once you get it started the truck runs off the voltage that is supplied back to the batts from the alt., but its not enough to charge the batts and run the IDM (the IDM takes between 10.5 and 12V and converts it to 120V+ to fire the injectors.) remove batts and have them load tested seperatley. If they check good, then have the alt checked. Only replace batts in sets of two, and if the alt shows bad and this has been happening awhile, replace batts and alt. a failing alt can damage good batt cells in a short time.
is it the relay on the inner fender clicking or the starter solinoid?
when you get a no start try jumping across the big post on the relay
if it starts then try jumping from bottom large post to small post