Radius arm nuts
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2006
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Radius arm nuts
Due to a recent thred, I took a look at my radius arm bushings and brackets. I was happy to see the brackets were tight to the frame. On the passenger side, it looked like the poly bushing was moving just a bit. (the metal was shinny) So I took off the nut, washer, heat gard and poly bushing. I couldnt see anything wrong. It looks like the nut will run out of threds before the bushing really gets tight. Is this the way its suppose to be? I guess if it were real tight, it might limit the articulation a little. I was thinking of putting another washer on. Any thoughts?
By the way, while I was under the truck I thought i would check that my front axle pivot bolts were tight. ( I've had trouble before) They were good, but my motor mounts and transmission mounts were very loose. Keep checking!
By the way, while I was under the truck I thought i would check that my front axle pivot bolts were tight. ( I've had trouble before) They were good, but my motor mounts and transmission mounts were very loose. Keep checking!
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
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From: Gateway to the West
The bushings are designed to allow enough rang of motion in the suspension with the bayonet nut tightened to spec. If the bushing is slopping around in the frame mount with the nut properly tightened, it needs to be replaced.
A side note... MOOG used to make a set of polyurethane radius arm bushings that had the holes drilled off-center which gives you about 2-2.5 degrees of caster adjustment that is not available with the OEM bushings. I had them on GS92 until I put the Tuff Country lift on it. I don't know if these bushings are still available from MOOG. (The TC radius arms use a completely different bushing setup).
A side note... MOOG used to make a set of polyurethane radius arm bushings that had the holes drilled off-center which gives you about 2-2.5 degrees of caster adjustment that is not available with the OEM bushings. I had them on GS92 until I put the Tuff Country lift on it. I don't know if these bushings are still available from MOOG. (The TC radius arms use a completely different bushing setup).
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Posting Guru
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Mine are not slopping around. I guess their OK. Mine are poly bushings from superlift (I think) My arms are longer than stock. If you removed the bushings completly, you couldnt get 2 degrees camber.
New User
Joined: May 2006
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From: San Antonio, Tx
I bought my 96 Bronco a couple months ago and noticed that truck was making clunk noise when going from reverse to drive and vise versa. pretty much when using the break and coming to a stop. determined that the lower ball joints were bad, well to make a long story short, I ended up completely rebuilding the front end, seals, pivot bushings, springs, shocks and so on. well after completing the taske and all back together, it still makes the noise. Well I didn't replace the radius arm bushings because they looked brand new, as if replaced shortly before I purchased them. Seems with a mechanic listening device the noise is coming from the passenger side radius arm at the bracket. Everything has been tighten. Only thing I can figure is the bushings are bad. Is it possible that with bad bushings the radius arm would move enough to clunk loudly when moving around even if the bushings look fairly new. or is there something I'm not thinking of. Any Ideas?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
Given that the stop washers that hold the bushings in place are larger in diameter than the bushings themselves, its entirely possible that you cannot actually see the crushed portion of the bushing.
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