That's not even worthy of a response.....

 

Lisa, would you like me to get rid of it? I know it's scary and all....

 

It is a bit scary..

That picture makes me feel like I should take all of my money out of my wallet and hide it somewhere...

Maybe you can draw a pirate moustache on his face..that'd make me feel better.

 

This is me:

 

I can't do that. That's not nice. Besides, I'm sure Gale can afford some pretty good lawyers that would love to string me up for "defacing" his likeness. He won't take my truck though since the 7.3L is a dead platform.....so I can keep that.

 

Great Scott!

 

Yeah, those are SUPER IPRs around the circumference. They work REALLY well at blocking bypass flow from the HPOP so I get MEGA ICP!!!!!

Quick Marty, to the Delorean!!
I think this one's off track enough.....

 

Ok try this one on:

"The way I see it, if you're gonna build a time machine into a car, why not do it with some style?"

 

I forget......how many jiggowatts was it? lol

 

It still makes me laugh every time I think about a car that you "wax" with a Scotch-Brite pad.

I got rid of Gale. It started making me sick while scrolling through threads.....

 

recently bought '95 F 250 power stroke diesel to haul my horses short distances. it is a great truck and i love it. I previously posted my only problem with hard starting since weather got cold and am working with glow plugs and glow plug relay to solve that. MY QUESTION IS?: The dude who sold it to me said it had a powerchip. How to I tell what the powerchip is? I am a rookie with this stuff
thanks
Irvin

 

1.21 jiggawatts.

 

Irvin,

Unfortunately, "powerchip" is pretty vague. There are really easy ways to tell whether or not you have a module or chip.

First, look across the engine valley from your glow plug relay. At the front of the driver's side head there will be a 3-wire connector pointing up at about a 45 degree angle. If the engine's STOCK wiring harness is plugged into the sensor sticking out, then it's not an ICP fooler-type power adder.

The best way to describe checking for an actual "chip" is to remove the lower door sill plate from the driver's door opening (the flat black plastic piece that holds the carpet down). Then remove the screw from the top of the kick panel (between the door opening and the dash). Third, pull out the push-pin below the park brake pedal mechanism. Pull straight backward on the kick panel to remove it. (It beats pulling out the PCM on a 95!!)

Use a 13mm socket to remove the 3 bolts holding the parking brake mechanism in place and pull it out of the way. There will be a hole (just big enough for your hand) behind the park brake mechanism. Look in there....if there is a black cover with a white sticker that says "Ford" and something like "SOD2" (three letters and a number) attached to the computer box, then there's NO CHIP IN IT. If there is ANYTHING in that hole besides a flat black plastic cover (or no cover at all), then it's got a chip.

As far as flash programming goes, there's no way to tell unless you go to a Ford dealer or have EEC-V reading capabilities handy.

 

Nevermind....I forgot Doc would have this covered...

Also IMHO your cold start issue is most likely an inoperable glow plug relay or weak batteries.

 

Lisa, why do we even try to answer a post with Curtis and Cody around. . I so enjoy reading their post. Thanks guys, I learn so much from ya'll. . This is a good thing.