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How exactly do i check these things? It does say in the directions that cam with the cam to not turn the motor over to many times before proper break in.
So do i put the cam, install lifters, rockers, and pushrods the roll the cam over and check the valves?
Sorry if im getting annoying, i just want to do this right.
No your not annoying, this is why this forum is here, I'm sure there are also alot of people reading this and learning along with you.
Turning the motor over a few times to check things out before you start it won't hurt anything. Crane wants you to avoid cranking the engine alot trying to start the motor the first time.
And yes just go ahead and put everthing together, roll the motor over with a wrench and check things out. If something doesn't look right to you let us know we'll figure it out together.
I lubed the cam and put it in. Dropped the lifters and pushrods in, but didnt torque the rocker arm bolts down. I went to put the timing set on and when i did i found something that worries me a little. I pushed both gear on all the way and when i did i felt the cam push back a little. The cam gear stuck there so i pulled it back and forth and noticed some forward and back movement. Is this normal? I checked twice to make sure i had the thrust plate on correctly.
Yes it is normal. The cam lobes are ground at an angle (down towards the front). This does two things, the force from the lifters pulls the cam back in the block, and it causes the lifters to spin (if you look at the bottom of an old lifter you'll see a circular wear pattern, if they don't spin they quickley wear a line through the hard coat) The cam is kept from going too far back by the cam gear.
Im ready to put the timing cover on, but like everything else i want to make sure i do it right. My haynes manual says to align it using the harmonic balancer. What exactly does this mean? I cant just bolt it up?
Also i cut the rubber oil pan gasket off, probably a mistake. Ill try the cork pieces, hopefully it works.
this truck had the metal/rubber pan gasket? you now need to replace the oil pan gasket if you cut it . you may be able to use a ford quailty rtv(ta29) on it and salvage it. but i would replace it. this thing is going to leak .
btw you dont need the balancer. thats why there is in dowel pins in the cover
Ive been distracted with basketball and other high school extracurricular bs so this project came to a halt for a little while. Ive got mostly everything lined out and if it ices too much for me to go to school i should have everything buttoned up tommorow.
One thing i dont know. How do i run the oil pump without running the motor. I know it involves a drill i know nothing after that.
Thanks
Jacob
Get a small extension and 1/4 socket that fits the pump driveshaft.. not sure the size right now but it's 3/8 or 5/16 or something like that, tape them together so you don't accidentally drop it inside the motor and put it in the drill. Turn it counterclockwise until you get oil out the top of all the pushrods or about a minute if the motor is all buttoned up.
When you look at the bottom of the distributor, the hex you see is the oil pump drive, I beleive on your motor it is 5/16 but you just need to mach the dist to find out.