Crane, but their tech hours are mon.-thurs so i was just hopign someone on here could help.

 

If you dont have the hole drilled and taped for the helicoil DONT PUT the cam it. Did you go with a roller or a flat hyd. ?

 

its flat tappet hydraulic. Why would i not put the cam in? The heli coil is going on the head?

 

there will be shavings come out of that hole your taping. If you can say there wont be ANY shaving go ahead and risk it. I would NEVER and I mean NEVER try to tap a hole after dropping in my cam unless the front of the motor is buttoned up.

 

My plan was to put the cam in, then put the timing cover on, that way the oil pan and timing set is all covered, the i will have to be real careful not to get shavings in the lifter valley. see where im coming from?

I still dont know what the black spacer things are, i guess ill wait til tommorow.

 

The black spacers are probably valve adjustment shims, they go between the head and the rocker towers to shim up the rockers to compinsate for the higher lift of the new cam. Was this not covered in any instructions that cam with the cam?

The pins/dowels are probably the two options for the pins that locate the timing gear on the from of the cam, one for each style of fuel pump eccentric.

I think you are on the right track bottoning up the front of the motor before drilling the head. It is the best way to prevent shavings in the pan. And the cam isn't that sensative to shavings anyway, but the rest of the motor is, Be carefull, cover everything with tape. It's also a good tip to coat your tools drill bit, tap, etc. with grease so the shavings will stick to them instead of falling into the motor. Heli-coils are great but you may not need to use it. If you can get the broken peice out without damaging the original threads that would be even better. Try to get your hands on some left twist drill bits most good tool supply places will have them. If done right these can many times just take it out while your drilling, if not you got your hole for the next step. Try to start with a flat serface if you can grind the top of the bolt flat. Then center punch the bolt. It is very important to get the hole as centerd as possable. Start with a small bit so it is easy to manage like 1/8th. Then go bigger as nessasary, it is worth trying an easy out to see if it will work before going to a point that will damage the original threads. I like the square easy outs alot better then the twisted style, and hammering them in tends to loosen the bolt too. Good luck

It sounds like you got the good stuff for the cam break-in lube use it generiously.

 

The only shimming I can think of would be for setting the spring height. Are the round shim material in different thicknesses ?

 

They are all the same thickness, a little thicker than a piece of paper but plastic. They look like they could go under the rocker arms, but they directions with the cam dont say anything about them.

 

Plastic? I've never seen plastic valve shims. You better contact Crane.

 

My bad, they arent plastic, i looked them up and they are rocker arm shims. I read that you may need them with a cam change. Something to do with lifter pre load. I hadnt even heard of this before now, guess i should have looked into it. How do i know if i will need them?

 

Shims for the valve springs!

 

i got that...but has anyone used this cam or one similar to know how many I need on each rocker if any at all?

 

they should have given you a working hieght? Them you measure the spring installed. Figure out how much you need, measure ad reshim till there all at the working height. But the go under the valve springs not the rocker arms.

 

When you put the valve train back together you will probably need them, go ahead and install them. Just make sure that after they are installed that the pushrods are tight enough that you can't easily turn them with your fingers. If you can take the shims out.

Actually measuring lifter preload is tough and you need a plunger dial indicator. Hydrolic lifters are pretty forgiving (that's what there there for) and your better of erroring on the side of too lose (shims instaled) then too tight.

Do not listen to alabamabuddog he's confused from too much bud. These are rocker tower shims not valve spring shims. His comments about working height refer to valve spring setup and not what your doing here.

The job of these shims is to compinsate for the increase in lift of the new cam. Just put them in and do a good check of the valvetrain. Make sure things are tight enough when the valve is closed and that the valve spring isn't bottoming, that there is still a gap between the coils when the valve is open all the way.

 

How exactly do i check these things? It does say in the directions that cam with the cam to not turn the motor over to many times before proper break in.

So do i put the cam, install lifters, rockers, and pushrods the roll the cam over and check the valves?
Sorry if im getting annoying, i just want to do this right.