If it were me, I'd try something like this: Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

I know Sears sells these also.

 

That youll have to file or grind flat. Center punch then drill. Then tap. Take your time its easy to do but easy to screw up also. Take your time youll do fine. Use a drill bit several sizes smaller at first so if you miss center. If you hit center you can always drill again with a bigger bit.


Yeah and use a tool like the one listed above.

 

i had this problem on my f150, and my 89 cougar 5.0 and my 91 5.0 bird , you will end up drilling and tapping it or heilcoiling it , i have NEVER had an extractor work, what happens is the coolant croddes the bolt to the head and thins the bolt by the threads , at least this one goes completely throughthe head to the outside of the block , makes it easier .

 

cant wait to hear how that new cam sounds! ru doing headers or anything else at the same time?

 

I tried drilling is out today, no dice. How hard is it to pull the heads? The head gaskets probably need changed anyways and i have it this far a apart.
That way i can get it on a bench and work on it where i can see what im doing.

 

hey what i did when that happened was just drill the **** out of it and put the bolt in and use a nut on the bottom of it, works fine for me... you really don't need the hole to have threads just seems like a bunch of extra work, and you don't want to deal with taking the heads off, they are a bunch more work and if they are off you might as well port them ect..... and then you have to worry about the head gasket sealing and not spilling antifreeze into the cylinders so just drill the hole one size bigger than you need and go out and but a longer bolt and nut (grade 8) and put it together that way. here's a vid of my truck camming to help motivate you :-) YouTube - Cammed out 5.0 mud truck open headers

 

are you converting to a carb too? they are more tunable and cheaper than speed density, if you already have your manifold off it's not too bad to put a carb on, i did the whole cam swap/carb swap in about 3-4 days just working at night....

 

DONT listen to 66 tbird drill it out and helicoil it !the kit is 20 bucks its a 5/16 corse thread, dont half *** it like he is suggesting

 

I agree with j89cat

 

Would it hurt anything if i lubed up the new cam and lifters and installed them but didnt start the truck up for a couple of weeks? Im ready to put the cam in but if needs to be started shortly after i will have to wait until i have the rest of my stuff.

 

No it won't hurt anything for it to sit for a week or two. A couple suggestions though;

Assuming you didn't go with a roller cam ( I can't remember) the lube is also a fine polish to break in the cam with the lifters, lot's of people for some reason also put it on the bearings, don't, use a thick oil on the bearings I like a product called Hyperlube.

Prime the lifters, let them set overnight in a tub of clean 30 weight oil, and/or use an oil can to pump them full of oil.

Pre -lube the engine before you start it. Use a drill motor and a socket to drive the oil pump for few seconds until you get oil pressure then a minute more. Just tape a (I think it's 5/16) socket to a 1/4 drive extension and drive it with a 1/2 inch drill.

Proper cam break-in, it may go over this in the cam intructions but in case. Do not let the engine idle for the first 15min, keep the engine up at about 1500-2000 rpm, Why? The cam lobes and lifters break-in by polishing each other, this is tough on them and the lobes are not lubed directly so keeping the engine speed up ensures that the crank throws enough oil on the cam to keep it lubed.

Have you been able to fix the broken bolt yet? If not tell us what's going on I'll give ya some tips.

Do not remove the heads. I can't remember how many miles you got on this motor but domestic V-8s tend to get settled in, and don't like being disturbed more then nessasary. I have seen alot of V-8s with miles on them throw rods shortly after head work. I can't nail down why but it happens, one to me personally and Fords seem more suceptible then others.

What else are you doing/waiting for?

 

Ran out of time to edit, Had a thought on the break in lube. It's been a couple years sence I last used a crane kit. If they still come with the brite red (like ATF) break in lube that is rather thin, you may want to get a better lube if your going to let it set for a while grab some of there super moly lube it will stay put better.

 

Right now im still working on the bolt and im waiting on a helicoil kit and injector parts.
The cam came with some lube that appears to be a paste, its very dark red almost purple. Also with the cam came 2 dowel pins (short and long) and 2 bags of little black squares with holes in them. what are these?

 

Can anyone tell me what these black spacers are? Ive never heard of them and have no idea what they are. I would like to put the cam lifters and pushrods back in tonight.

 

What kind of cam and lifters did you go with. Who ever you got them from should be able to tell you.