Recently, my son posted some beginning symptoms of starting troubles when the engine is cold, which seem to point towards either the ball check valve in the HPOP, the starter, or both. In that thread, the issue of my oil's age/condition came up.

Based on the report below... all is really good with my oil.

I ran 12,400 miles last time before changing, and Schaeffers recommended takig it up to 14,500. The wear metals and contaminants are looking really good in teh report below, so I'll follow their suggestion at the last OCI to get the 14,500 and have it re-analyzed at that point for verification. After taking the sample this time, we had to add about 2 quarts to top off the sump level, which is a little more than what I experienced on the last run with this same oil.

I also included a PDF of the back side of the report from Schaeffers so you can see their explanations and recommended contaminant levels.

 

Looking good Pete! Now I am even more confident in doing my OCI once a year evey summer. That puts me right at 7k mi., and I am going to sample at 5k and see what they say. I am pretty sure I can extend beyond that but with my yearly average at 7k mi. I think once every summer is a good option.

P.S. when are we going to WW in your sig?

 

Nice report Pete. Your silicon was way low at 4 ppm - your filter covers must be helping to keep that air nice & clean. In addition, you nitration & oxidation are very low - good to see.

 

I'm well pleased. The only thing I don't understand is the differences in additive components. Now, some additional context is that the first oil run which ran 12,400 miles had a 1.5 quart "dilution" added to it at about 8,500 miles. Would that be enough "fresh oil" to falsely elevate the additive components in comparison to my recent sample which had no "dilution" and had run for 7,800 miles.

In other words, the first sample was composed of oil which can be characterised as follows:
- 16 quarts in at ZERO miles
- 1.5 quarts of oil "burned", replaced with 1.5 quarts fresh oil at about 8,000 miles
- another 1 quart "burned over the remaining 4,400 miles, NOT replaced before sampling and changing oil at 12,400 miles

More math games...
(16 - 1.5) = 14.5 quarts
1.5x15/16 = 9.4% ( or, 1.4 quarts) of the oil ran only the last 4,400 miles
and 15 - 1.4 = 13.6 quarts of the original oil ran the entire 12,400 miles

Would that 9.4% of "low use" oil have been enough to mathematically raise the additive component percentages as shown when comparing the two samples?

 

I think it absolutely has to change the numbers somewhat, Pete. But so what? When you added a little fresh oil, you just extended your change by that much more. It all mixes, so as long as you have good numbers next sample, there's nothing to worry about. It's not like they're only getting a sample of the "new" oil and the rest is "old". It's all mixed and what they see is what you have. Do you drain the HPOP every OC or do you leave that quart or so of "old" oil in there? That will offset your fresh oil numbers some, too.

 

I know what you mean, Joe. It's just that my EB questions things like that (EB is wife-speak for "engineering brain") . I'm not worried at all... just curious. When Ii see things change or differences in a comparison of two things, I like to understand what's really driving the change or difference at a true "root cause" level. It's the way I tend to be, and I've now spent 24 years in engineering/optimization in manufacturing technical support roles where that questioning process has been required on an every day basis. It's almost like I don't know how to NOT question things like that.

Anyway, regarding the HPOP... no, I don't change out that volume at all. I've considered it, and it might be a better way to transition when changing/evaluating brands. At the same time, I'm not convinced that it really has a lot of value because I honestly do not believe that the oil in there is stagnant enough to be problematic - and I may well be wrong about that. There's no doubt, though, that changing this "top end" oil is certainly a more "purist" approach to an oil change.

What I HAVE done on each of my last three oil changes, though, is change both the full flow and the bypass flow elements. I've chosen to do that so I can get a solid apples-to-apples comparison of run-to-run numbers on the OA's. Right now, I plant to complete my third run on the Schaeffers, and if I do stay with it, which is likely right now, I'll back off to changing the bypass element every other oil change, which seems to be what most people do.

 

LOL... Our wives are as similar as us and our trucks...

I think I'm switching to Schaeffer 9000 next OC. That $22/gal Rotella Syn isnt' just a great deal anymore. BUT... I am THIS close to going Motorcraft dino -- WM sells MC 15W-40 in **5** quart jugs like regular car oil for the same price as 4 quarts of dino Rotella. So we only need three jugs of that at $11 a gallon, plus an $11 filter. $44 OCs every 5k is starting to look attractive now that the GD MF'ing Greedy-Arsed Price Gouging Oil Companies refuse to lower fuel prices fast enough. Did I sound bitter there?? Sorry....

But anyway, I really am considering going back to dino after I saw that. I love syns, but you know what? I'm tired of handing so much of my check to the greedy b@$t@rd$ as it is.

 

That's too funny, Joe!

If you have a Schaeffer rep anywhere nearby, the 9000 5w40 is easily less than twice your $11/gal price, and with your bypass system and running for 3x the 5K mileage plan... it's still a money-saver to stick with the syn approach.

 

I'm not running any bypass filtering. I run 6-7k on the syn without it. I just put the Rotella Syn in, so I'll have plenty of time to find a rep close to me. I was even thinking of becoming one if there aren't any close. The search thing on their website doesn't help. The closest place to get it according to them is like 25 miles away. Not worth the trouble in that case. We'll see how that goes -- I would think there would have to be a rep closer than that. They really need to get that working right on their site...

 

Wow!.... I could have SWORN that you were running a bypass system! Still, you may be able to get up to 15K even without the bypass, but I'm not sure about that one.

On the Rep issue... call the number for your regional sales manager and talk with him/her directly. The sites they list on the web are hte retail stores, and you would not get the wholesale pricing from the retail location anyway. It's the wholesale pricing that makes it worthwhile.

Also, even if the rep is not very close, once you get the name/number, go ahead and talk with them about it because they probably pass through your area periodically (weekly, monthly, etc.), and I've worked out a couple of "let's meet in the parking lot at Lowes off I-65..." kind of arrangements, which has worked out very well for me, and my rep is about 30 miles away as well.

On the similarity of our trucks... that's getting ready to change a little - I think. I'm getting really close to pulling the trigger on getting a body side dent repaired. At the same time, I will be installing a front leveling kit and going two-tone on the paint - medium flint, like my interior darker color, just on the lower side body like the Lariats. I've tried to find some Lariat wheel opening mouldings, but those buggers are NOT cheap, so I'll probably skip that little feature for now.

 

Dang you Pete!! I'm talking to my old Army room mate right now on Y! IM about doing that very thing!! Where are you getting the leveling kit? I'm really wanting to get that done as well. I was also thinking about the paint thing too. That stemmed from seeing all the dirty road water getting kicked up on the lower panels from the weather here lately. The gray down there would make it much less visible. You & I really do think a lot alike...

 

SCARRRYYYY!!!

I can't believe that we keep running on the same line so often! You are simpyl going to HAVE to get a bypass kit whenever I get my chip and valve body!

Anyway, I've talked with Bob at Ft Bob's Garage about the spacers. His are not the compressible polyurethane spacers... they are HDPE, and they come witha lifetime warranty and a really good price.

I would love to get some billet, but haven't been able to find any. I do have a neighbor who has a 5-router CNC controlled machine that is supposedly capable of milling 2'x4'x5', which is way much more than required for the spacers, and I'm thinking about talking the project over with him. Might even be a marketable situation to help him out as well. If I can catch him at home it turns into a real possibility, I'll let you know.

I would love to get those wheel opening mouldings to go along with the lower body paint, but I just can't scratch up the pennies for those things (anywhere from $270-$499 per side ). Maybe I can find some at the junk yards... have not tried that route yet.

 

That would be too funny.......

I'll go have a look at Fat Bob's -- thanks!! The wife wasn't too thrilled with the idea, but I told her I was tried of the door-stop look, and I don't want to go too big, since I just spent almost $800 on GoodYear Silent Armors in 265s -- don't want them looking too small under there. The 2" front lift will be perfect for what I'm after. Was tempted to try the 285s this time, but I stuck with stock for the time being.

 

I went with the 285's (Bridgestone Revo's) on my Ex last summer, but switched them over to my truck this spring when I got the Ex up for sale. They fit nicely under the front with no scrubbing at all, but the "door stop look" remains unmistakably present!

When I last spoke with Bob, he actually has the capability of making 2-1/2's and even 3" spacers, and the extra $$ for that 1/2-1" was only in the $10-20 range.

 

Will the stock shocks handle the extra 1/2 or 1"? And will it be "more level" that way? I never really tried measuring it, but I might stick the jack under there and see...