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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 09:27 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Izzy351
LOL... Our wives are as similar as us and our trucks...

I think I'm switching to Schaeffer 9000 next OC. That $22/gal Rotella Syn isnt' just a great deal anymore. BUT... I am THIS close to going Motorcraft dino -- WM sells MC 15W-40 in **5** quart jugs like regular car oil for the same price as 4 quarts of dino Rotella. So we only need three jugs of that at $11 a gallon, plus an $11 filter. $44 OCs every 5k is starting to look attractive now that the GD MF'ing Greedy-Arsed Price Gouging Oil Companies refuse to lower fuel prices fast enough. Did I sound bitter there?? Sorry....

But anyway, I really am considering going back to dino after I saw that. I love syns, but you know what? I'm tired of handing so much of my check to the greedy b@$t@rd$ as it is.

JOe,

The Motorcraft CJ-4 oil did not fair well on the foam sequence I.II,II tests. It was as high as 20%, within spec limits but for the 7.3L the lower the score the better. Jon & a few others tried it and did notice a slight difference in idle at startup that he did not really like.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 09:40 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by F250_JR
I hope that this is not bad, but I just realized that when I took the sample that my dad is talking about, I didn't really drain much at all before filling up the sample bottle. It was more like I opened the drain, spilled a little, then filled the bottle. Reading this now, I know that my dad told me to do that, but I must have forgotten.
I hope that won't make it inacurate.
It's more important to take the sample after the engine has been warmed up. Catching the sample midstream can help prevent any contaminates entering the sample. But as Jeremy said it is best to be consistant and do the procedure the same way each time. What you can consider is geting an oil sampling pump from your Schaeffer's rep or I can send your Dad one. It only cost $16 and you screw in the sample bottle then stick the plastic tubing down the dipstick and extract a fresh sample. Works great except on Cummins engines - there must be a slight restriction at the end of the tube preventing it from entering the oil pan the whole way.

 
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 09:48 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Izzy351
LOL.... I know, Jeremy. I'm horrible with the hijack thing.

I'll check into finding a local rep. I haven't yet because I was happy with the Syn Rotella. I'll get that done when I come due for my next OC. Since I just did one, I'll be okay for a few months. I certainly don't need $350+ worth of stuff -- if I did, I'd DEFINITELY become a rep. LOL....
Joe,

Check out Tony's Website - he's got some there. www.totaldieselperformance.com
 
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 10:03 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by white Buffalo
It's more important to take the sample after the engine has been warmed up. Catching the sample midstream can help prevent any contaminates entering the sample. But as Jeremy said it is best to be consistant and do the procedure the same way each time. What you can consider is geting an oil sampling pump from your Schaeffer's rep or I can send your Dad one. It only cost $16 and you screw in the sample bottle then stick the plastic tubing down the dipstick and extract a fresh sample. Works great except on Cummins engines - there must be a slight restriction at the end of the tube preventing it from entering the oil pan the whole way.

Well, the engine was warm enough that the oil bottle was almost uncomfortably warm to hold, so I guess I am good.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 10:04 PM
  #35  
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Benjamin, you should be ok. What Rich said correct.

Originally Posted by white Buffalo
oil sampling pump ... Works great except on Cummins engines - there must be a slight restriction at the end of the tube preventing it from entering the oil pan the whole way.
Yup. Found that out the hard way.

Originally Posted by white Buffalo
Joe,

Check out Tony's Website - he's got some there. www.totaldieselperformance.com
Forgot about Tony.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 10:06 PM
  #36  
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I'm glad it's ok. Thanks.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 10:17 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by jtharvey
Yup. Found that out the hard way.
Me too! Had to take a few oil samples the hard, hot & messy way on the 5.9's and the new 6.7's.

Drop the plug, catch a sample, insert plug, get glove off before hot oil burns hand, hit head on frame.....
 
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 10:33 PM
  #38  
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Rich, get some XL nitrile gloves and a set of some Mechanics gloves. The nitrile gloves will keep the oil off and should stretch over the Mechancis gloves, which will help with the heat.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 11:16 PM
  #39  
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Wow... lots of activity here since I left work!

Rich, both samples were the Schaeffers 9000 5w40.

Great info trasnfer going on. I guess you brought us all right back on track, Jeremy. Joe and I have been continually amazed over the past year or so, though, at how almost exactly similar our trucks are, how we do things, what we plan to do, why we plan things the way we do.... and now to find out that our wives even think along the same lines.... we just got carried away.

Rich... Jamie has mentioned the pump to me several times, and I know I may sound like I'm ignoring you guys on that, but I sort of like using that little Fumoto drain valve and not having to bother with keeping an oil coated length of tubing and associated pump from dripping around in my garage... not that that couldn't be overcome. Getting under the truck to get the sample, though, also gives me an opportunity to take a good look around the bottom of the engine for leaks, etc. I will certainly keep the pump in mind, and may even get one anyway just to have it on hand.

Thanks for all the input. Great questions and discussion.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2008 | 11:31 PM
  #40  
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Pete, no worries about being off track. It's your thread after all.

I think what Rich was wanting to know was if you knew the API spec of the two oils you used. The 9000 5W-40 was recently updated to the current CJ-4 spec, required for use in 2007 and later model year trucks, as were most all diesel rated oils. Prior to that it was a CI-4 API spec oil. Both were 9000 5W-40 though. We're looking for differences in performance between the two, since the CI-4 spec hasn't been out for long, and some have worries about it not performing as well. Some of the other oil brands out there have been performing worse since they have reformulated to CJ-4. I don't think Schaeffers will perform any worse though. The company has added things to make up for what was lost in the reformulation to be sure performance doesn't diminish compared to the old spec.

I've been looking at those Fumoto valves lately, especially since I've got the new engine and can't take a sample via the dipstick tube. They seem like a pretty nifty little device.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 12:04 AM
  #41  
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Do you know when the new oil hit the shelves? I still have about 3 gallons left from my last purchase for that latest oil change, and it is the newer CJ-4 spec, clearly written across the top of the label.

Regarding the Fumoto... they do work nicely. One thing about them, though... the first time you try to install the little "locking ring", which is nothing more than a hose clamp spring... it's a REAL booger getting on, and you'll wonder if it's worth teh trouble. Go ahead and use it, though. After riding on the truck for a while with all the engine heat, the spring tension relaxes just enough for it to still be almost not easy to put back after you remove it, but it also still has plenty of tension to stay firmly in place to ensure that there is no accidental movement on the little valve handle.

One more thing about that little valve... I don't know the orientation of your new drain plug (vertically point down, at an angle, or horizontal), but you should consider getting teh valve that has the tubing nipple installed in it so you use a short piece of tubing to ensure that your draining oil hits and stays in the pan (or sample bottle). I'm going to find a little 90° nipple attachment for mine so it doesn't hang down and create a little snag point if I run over something in the road.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 01:06 AM
  #42  
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I can't remember exactly when the change was. Sometime earlier this year I think. This whole summer was kind of a blur to me though.

Thanks for the tip on the clip. I wasn't sure what you were talking about and had to check out their website to see what it was.

My drain valve is flat on the bottom of the oil pan, pointing straight down, so I shouldn't need any tubing or anything like that. The valve hanging down is the only thing that worries me. But, it's still a lot higher than the axle, so something would have to clear the bottom of the axle then quickly come way up to hit the bottom of the pan. Not that it's impossible, I just don't see it as likely, especially with most of my driving being on-road.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 07:06 AM
  #43  
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I didn't know you had the fumoto Valve Pete, you don't really need the oil sampling pump then. My mistake. The fumoto valve and the sampling port on the oilguard bypass filters are both easy places to take samples from.

Thanks jeremy for the clarification of the CJ-4 Spec I was refering to and a big thanks for the recomendation on the gloves!

In the August edition of Heavy Duty Trucking magazine there is a very interesting article on the new CJ-4 oils and how some have shown definite improvements compared to the CI-4 spec. Increased thermal stability and holding TBN longer even though the TBN base is lower with the new CJ-4 spec. Many folks were worried that a lower TBN would decrease their drain intervals, but the opposite has been experienced with some CJ-4 Spec oils - the same drain intervals or in some instances extending them.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 08:34 AM
  #44  
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You know, now that this CJ-4 spec issue has risen again, I remember clearly that the Amsoil DEO 5w40 I ran through right after I got the truck was advertised as meeting or exceeding the CJ-4 spec. My wear numbers jumped higher and quicker than I had expected on that oil, which is why I switched over to the Schaeffers 9000.

In all honesty, I guess I should have run it (DEO) two more times before switching (to Schaeffers 9000) in order to get a real apples-to-apples comparison, but the cost difference between teh two would have probably driven me to the Schaeffers anyway. Regardless, I'm really happy with where I am right now, and have no intention of switching back or trying any other oils for the foreseeable future.

Jeremy... thanks for the tip, too, on the TBN testing. I knew that it was something special that had to be requested, but simply did not do my research before asking for it. I'm not really interested in pursuing it at this point, especially given the way the engine seems to be liking the oil.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 08:48 AM
  #45  
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Excellent thread guys!!! I'll rep you all again (if I can!!). I'm convinced to stick with the syn, and definitely Schaeffer 9000. I know the DieselTreat is damn good stuff, thanks to Rich letting me run some a while back, so I'll start using that too. I guess seeing diesel over a buck more than gas set me off, and that was on top of the ~$6 jump in Syn Rotella I ended up paying. I wish I could've waited, but I needed an oil change before I left for the desert and was in a bit of a hurry to get it done when I got back. I didn't want ANY excuse not to drive the **** out of it since I was stuck on base driving 6.0s, and not able to go over 25 (legally, anyway ).

Thanks again!!!
 
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