That's a question I have not gotten an answer too yet either. I'm actually seriously considering getting a set of the Bilsteins at the same time, and also doing the driver side ball joint, too. From what I understand, the Bilsteins will stretch to it, but I think they also offer a shock that wil adjust to something like 3 or 4 additional inches. I plan on talking with a couple of suspension shops before launching in and tearing everything down... just to make sure I have what I need and get it right the first time.

As far as "more level".... yes. There is also a slim chance that the 3" might just be too much because we're supposed to actually get about 3" of lift off a 2 to 2-1/2 inch levelign kit due to where the spsacers go in respect to the actual pivot point on the structure. Inother words, since we're shoving a spacer in between the physical location of the fender and the pivot point on the suspension, you end up with more than 2" of actual body lift... pic below.

Shove a spacer into position "A", and the height increase at position "B" is greater than the height of the spacer used at "A". At least, that's the explanation I've been told. Personally, I want to see it to know for sure because I have not looked at the physical geometry of the front end close enough to tell yet. If the contact point at position "A", bottom end, is parallel with the centerline of the wheel, then I can't see how the body rise will be greater than the thickness of the spacer.

 

Numbers look good Pete! That low silicon level is very appealing too, especially considering I've got one of your covers.

I noticed on your previous result, it looks like you asked for a TBN. You might call the lab and talk to Karen about that. Earlier in the year, I had asked her if they could do a TBN, and was told that they have to ship off a sample somewhere else to have the TBN done, but if I put a check in with the sample for $6.50 and requested it, they could be done. She didn't want to make a habit of it, but said if I wanted one every once in a while that would be okay. I'm not sure if they're still able to do that or not, but if you wanted a TBN, it might be worth a phone call to find out.

Pete, that's a very good point. The dealer/retail locater on the Schaeffer's website is only for retail locations and does not show the location of actual sales reps. Contacting the home office is the way to get in touch with an actual sales rep. Also, if you are looking to buy enough ($350, pre tax) to get free shipping, you can purchase from any rep, not just the one closest to you. I know of a few reps here in the midwest that have customers all over the country.

Man, you guys seriously hijacked your own thread! LOL. UOA's to suspension talk.

 

LOL.... I know, Jeremy. I'm horrible with the hijack thing.

I'll check into finding a local rep. I haven't yet because I was happy with the Syn Rotella. I'll get that done when I come due for my next OC. Since I just did one, I'll be okay for a few months. I certainly don't need $350+ worth of stuff -- if I did, I'd DEFINITELY become a rep. LOL....

 

Schaeffer's reps are a little unique in the fact that Schaeffer's actually puts them through training, so they know what they're talking about. They spend a week in St. Louis, going through lots of information about both the product, lubricants in general, and about the machines and such that the products are used in. A lot of reps also sell Schaeffer's pretty much full time too, so they're dealing with it all day, every day. It's a lot different from something like Amosil, where you pretty much just sign up and you're a dealer, with little or no training.

That's one of the reasons I also suggest someone talk directly to a rep, rather than a retail location, since the retail locations don't have nearly the training and education on the oil.

I don't really have a point with this post. Just an FYI. It popped into my head for some reason.

 

Good info -- thanks Jeremy! I wouldn't be opposed to a trip to St. Louis. I've been there several times and always had fun.

 

I was wondering how often should you change out the oil in the HPOP?

 

Hey guys, i think this is a good question pertaining to collecting the oil for testing. After bringing the oil up to temps do you get the oil sample from the begining of the flow after you take the oil pan bolt off or do you take a sample from the middle or end of oil drain??? Why i ask is i,m about 4,000 away from my 10,000 mile change interval with the Rotella 5w-40 syn and would like to see how this Rotella syn been holding up...I found a Shaeffers dealer thanks to another member here and will be trying the syn next, thanks.

 

You don't *have* to. The oil in there is cycled through the rest of the LP system, and refilled by the LPOP. It's not like a closed system or something. But some folks just like to do a more "complete" oil change, so they suck about an extra quart out of the HPOP reservoir. I did that once when I switched to syn. Won't do it again. Messy and really not worth it.

 

Joe, if you ever decide it's something you'd like to do, let me know. A lot of the reps are retired from something else too, and got tired of not working. They like the independence that being self employed offers them.

Jacob, I always used to change mine, but I don't think it's at all necessary. The oil in the HPOP res gets cycles through and is not stagnant oil. For those that believe that it does not get circulated with the rest of the engine oil, keep in mind that the EOT sensor, which the PCM uses to control fueling, is located in the HPOP res. If it never circulated, it would not get an accurate reading of overall EOT.

Mike, when you take a sample, you want to take it from warm oil and in the middle of the drain.

 

Thanks Joe and Jeremy. I'm kinda thinking about getting an oil analisys about how much do they cost?

 

Standard analysis is $22.50 at Blackstone. They'll send you a free collection container to mail it back to them:
Blackstone Laboratories

 

$9.00 through Schaeffers, like what Pete has. Unlike Blackstone though, they are pre-paid, and you need to buy them 6 at a time. Can't get just one, unless your local rep happens to have some available and can sell you just one. $54 will get you 6 kits through Schaeffers, but not even 3 from Blackstone. Oh, and the Schaeffer's kits also have postage already paid on them, so you just pull your sample and put it in the mailbox, where you still need to add postage for the Blackstone samples.

The Schaeffer's kits are less expensive and easier to send off. I also believe you get a better OUA. I've seen some really messed up stuff coming from Blackstone, both personally and from others, that took away all of my confidence in them. Just my $.02.

 

Thanks Jeremy, i'll do that and Jacob asked my other question.

 

Pete,

were both oil samples CJ-4 or was one of them the CI-4 plus spec?

 

I hope that this is not bad, but I just realized that when I took the sample that my dad is talking about, I didn't really drain much at all before filling up the sample bottle. It was more like I opened the drain, spilled a little, then filled the bottle. Reading this now, I know that my dad told me to do that, but I must have forgotten.
I hope that won't make it inacurate.