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Help! Weird starting issue!

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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 10:27 AM
  #61  
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bump - additional note added to above post.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 10:42 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by F250_
... sounds like I have either a front wheel bearing with low grease or a dragging caliper pin - oscillating wheel/tire noise that's louder than it was, and oscillates with a wider range between the high/low sounds. I'm pretty sure it's going to be a caliper pin or two....

Well... I really feel stupid now! But I'm also very grateful!!

The noise was from some cupping on my front tires after having run too long between rotations/balancing. I will NOT admit to how long "too long" was for me, but I have learned a valuable lesson!!

Still no word on the codes yet from the shop, but I am about determined that I'm going to very quickly be investing in AE 7.0 with a long cable so I can keep my PC inside the house but still run a cable to the truck (can run up to 50 feet, I think, but only need to go about 30 feet). Longer term plan will be an inexpensive laptop for testing "on the run".
 
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 01:36 PM
  #63  
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Here are the codes:
1) P0122 - Throttle Position Sensor - circuit low
2) P0541 - Internal Air Heater - circuit low
3) P0603 - Internal Control module - KAM (Keep Alive Memory) malfunction

Here are my comments/questions:
1) Makes sense regarding the recent hesitation on acceleration - Can this sensor be cleaned and/or replaced as a single sensor, or do I really need to replace the entire throttle pedal assembley? If complete replacementis necessary... any insights on the best place for the best price?

2) No big surprise, since I have removed the IAH... not worried at all about this code. Will at some time in teh future get the device to eliminate the code, but I have bigger fish in the pan at the moment.

3) Interesting. Could this be the infamous problem I've been experiencing since I installed my lift pump last year? The one that causes one of the modules under the steering wheel to start clicking and not allow the engine to start until I cycle the key fob several times? If so, what kind of fix is there? Any way to reset the existing module, or does it need replacement? If replace... again, suggestions for best location/price are welcome.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 02:25 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by F250_
Here are the codes:
1) P0122 - Throttle Position Sensor - circuit low
2) P0541 - Internal Air Heater - circuit low
3) P0603 - Internal Control module - KAM (Keep Alive Memory) malfunction

Here are my comments/questions:
1) Makes sense regarding the recent hesitation on acceleration - Can this sensor be cleaned and/or replaced as a single sensor, or do I really need to replace the entire throttle pedal assembley? If complete replacementis necessary... any insights on the best place for the best price?

2) No big surprise, since I have removed the IAH... not worried at all about this code. Will at some time in teh future get the device to eliminate the code, but I have bigger fish in the pan at the moment.

3) Interesting. Could this be the infamous problem I've been experiencing since I installed my lift pump last year? The one that causes one of the modules under the steering wheel to start clicking and not allow the engine to start until I cycle the key fob several times? If so, what kind of fix is there? Any way to reset the existing module, or does it need replacement? If replace... again, suggestions for best location/price are welcome.
Just a side note on #3, I don't know if I ever told you this Dad, but very soon after I started driving the truck, that clicking started back up again. The whole time I was using it, it would happen every single time I opened a door unless I had just unlocked it. I think I told you about that, but I just wanted to remind you about it.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 03:07 PM
  #65  
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Apparently, #3 from above is also created by simply disconnecting the batteries and probably does not indicate any other problem.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 05:03 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by F250_
Here are the codes:
1) P0122 - Throttle Position Sensor - circuit low
2) P0541 - Internal Air Heater - circuit low
3) P0603 - Internal Control module - KAM (Keep Alive Memory) malfunction

Here are my comments/questions:
1) Makes sense regarding the recent hesitation on acceleration - Can this sensor be cleaned and/or replaced as a single sensor, or do I really need to replace the entire throttle pedal assembley? If complete replacementis necessary... any insights on the best place for the best price?

2) No big surprise, since I have removed the IAH... not worried at all about this code. Will at some time in teh future get the device to eliminate the code, but I have bigger fish in the pan at the moment.

3) Interesting. Could this be the infamous problem I've been experiencing since I installed my lift pump last year? The one that causes one of the modules under the steering wheel to start clicking and not allow the engine to start until I cycle the key fob several times? If so, what kind of fix is there? Any way to reset the existing module, or does it need replacement? If replace... again, suggestions for best location/price are welcome.

Pete IIRC the TPS is very inexpensive and very quickly changed out. I just bought some 470 ohn 1\2 watt resistors and made a fooler for my AIH. I will be pulling that out soon. I will make one up for you and send it out if you'd like.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 05:13 PM
  #67  
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Got my alternators today. It sounds like the batteries and alt are good but wanted to update you anyway. Will post again when there in.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 05:40 PM
  #68  
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Pete, don't forget you can get phantom codes too. Did they clear the codes, test drive, then retest? I've seen the TPS code on my truck a few times after one of the AE upgrades. Cleared the codes & it didn't come back.

The 0603 can be caused from disconnecting the batteries as you mentioned. It can also come from loose or corroded cables which could explain the clicking, and can also be thrown by a chip / tuner.

I don't recall anything about your lift pump. Did you install a lift pump in the tank or other location? Did you use the factory wiring or run new wires to it? If new wires, where did you pull power from? If existing wiring, what's the amp / voltage draw of the new pump compared to stock? Just throwing some additional ideas out there that our electrical inclined friends might see something with.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 09:51 PM
  #69  
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Chris... yes, the phantom codes can be an issue, but since I have been noticing an acceleration "hiccup", I think this one might be real. Knowing that the TPS is such a common issue, I'll probably get a price and change it if for no other reason thatn to be proactive, but I think it will clear up my accel issues.

I still have never pulled my PCM to check for a chip, and I really need to do that. I know that the PCM has either been flashed or has a chip because it runs better than stock. Otherwise, I would not be able to run over 115mph the way I've been able to ever since I go tthe truck 2 years ago.

The lift pump....
- installed between the tank and the stocker, Baldwin filter between the lift pump and tank
- ran new power supply straight from the driver side battery with an inline fuse
- ran a jumper off the existing power line to the stocker to a relay switch so that the lift pump would come on with the key on and also lose power if the stock pump lost power - this jumper is "permissive" only on the relay
- have not checked amp/voltage draw on either pump... excellent thought! I'll have to check that one

Jim... that's awfully nice of you, my friend. I would be grateful!
 
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 10:06 PM
  #70  
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I'll send it out as soon as I solder it up.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 02:04 PM
  #71  
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You're one heckuva guy, Jim. Thanks.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 02:18 PM
  #72  
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Pete, if you need to replace the throttle position sensor, you do not have to buy the whole pedal assembly. O'reilly sells the sensor by itself. It is a Dorman product. You can search Throttle Position Sensor here for more. IIRC it is about $50. Easy swap.

For some reason I am on my 3rd.

 
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 01:35 AM
  #73  
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even though its not the problem, the truck seems to start faster with the new alternators. Good luck with the truck!
 
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 07:44 AM
  #74  
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Thanks, Andrew.

Joe, I actually managed to locate the TPS from Millineum Ford (Y2K) in Washington state, and it was only $35. I also ordered the brackets for my new '08 console so I can get that little puppy in place pretty soon, too.

On the starting issue, it almost is beginning to seem like the truck is starting almost as good as it used to, and I haven't done anything except replace the CPS.

I took the gray unit out that I had purchased/installed last June, and had not been having any typical CPS symptoms at all, but decided to swap it back out with the original black unit that was running well when I got the gray one... did that because of the reports of two cylinders not in spec on rotational velocity in other engines where the gray unit was running. There have also been reports of increased mileage with the black units compared to the gray ones, and my first tank on the black unit seems to be a little better, but the jury is still out on that issue for me.
 
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