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don't want to beat the same dead horse to much but the starter is something to look at
at the last mine got to where it wouldn't start hot without the glow plugs,sometimes had to heat it a couple times and up to four times when cold (85 to 95 deg outside)
at the first it just seemed to have to turn a little longer
Not to hijack a good thread but wanted to add that since I have had my truck for almost a month, as it gets colder I noticed that the engine would crank slower. I have two new Optima batteries and will be putting in two new alternators next week some time. I wait for the glow plug light to go off and then 2 seconds after I will crank the engine. I also just changed my oil to Rotella 5-40. When I put the batteries in I cleaned the ends as they were bad. I hope this info helps, and from one college student to another
Ray, thanks for the reminder about the starter. I also want to rule out any potential issues with the electrical connections and/or HPOP ball check or IPR valve issues before changing out the starter or alternator.
Thanks, Andrew. My Optimas are only about 6 months old, and the terminal connectors at the battery are clean and tight from the disconnect/reconnect testing last week on them. Have not had a chance to check the other ends of the cables yet because Benjamin's had it at school al week, but will do this weekend after I get back from my trip.
I'm also running the Schaeffer's 9000 synthetic 5w40 oil.
AFAIK, both the Alt and Starter are all orignal, and I'll be more than glad to replace them with upgraded and more powerful units, but I just don't want to spend the pennies until I have to.
Have not, just put them in 1 1/2 weeks ago, they were fully charged when I put them in. I had trickle charged them and they both were topped off. Do you think that I should have them tested?
No... I was actually talking about the alternators... getting them checked before spending the money to replace. I would expect that your batteries are fine.
O, sorry, I had originally bought a 160HD alt thinking that had a single alt system. Once I found out i did not, I sent it back to get two 110 units. The reason that I am changing out my alts is cuz they are original and with others having such weird electrical issues that were caused by the alternators I thought that some preventive maintenance was in order. Once I get the new ones in I will take the old ones to be tested. The other reason that I am replacing both is because I have a soft code stored in the PCM about a duel alt problem. I don't want to be stranded and I will have to replace them sometime, why not do it now?
I can follow that logic. Don't know about the soft code issue, bt I hope the replacement resolves that for you.
I getting ready to head out for the weekend (my office closes at noon on Friday's), and will be leaving to go out of town later, but I'll get back in here this evening sometime.
Like Dad said, we will do a thorough inspection when I get home. Two things to note that I did not mention in the first post:
1) I have not been waiting for the "wait to start" light to turn off before starting the engine. Dad corrected me on that last night, but I guess that might be a source for potential problems?
2) When I disconnected the batteries last night to get them checked, there was a little bit of white residue on the passenger side battery-I beleive it was on the positive post.
What you are saying was happening really is exactly opposite of what is going on now. Now it is closer to 1-2 seconds when hot, and 3-5 seconds when cold. Just for the record, I did start it like you told me to this morning, and it didn't make any weird sounds, it just took a little too long like I explained before.
My class is getting ready to start, so I need to go. I'll check back in later.
I sort of used speed reading on this thread as it seems the problem has pretty much been figured. but on the first page the above quote jumped out at me. I know a couple of months of not paying any attention to the WTS light will cause the glow plugs to carbon up. You probably caught yours in time. But one year I spent a lot of time in Florida and did not pay any attention at all. By the time I got to Buffalo that winter I had to cycle the glow plugs 5 or 6 times for a couple of weeks before they finally cleaned off.
Ok, I checked the HPOP level, and here's what I found...
There is a 15/16" space between the outside top of the HPOP and the oil level.
I don't know what that means, really, but there it is.
Also, that was with the engine still warm from the ~100 mile trip back home.
Hope that helps!
That means you have discovered the "full" level in the reservoir. Now let the truck sit overnight or a full day, and check the level before you try to start it. If it's still about 1" down after sitting that long, this isn't your problem.
About the starting times; it is definitely starting and running better now that I am waiting for the glow plugs. However, there are still regular instances where it just turns over longer than it should. The weird thing is that it turns over slower, too. It sounds exactly like the battery or alternator is going bad, and there just isn't quite enough charge for the starter to turn it over at full speed.
Your truck has a bad starter,I own a starter/alternator rebuild shop and have heard this description many times.customer will tell me truck starts ,,but not like it used to.The starter has four brushes in it,two for the positive and two for the negative.when we tear these units apart we find that they are generally cranking on one hot brush because the other one is worn out.
If you will take the starter off of the truck,all you have to do is remove the end cap and look for yourself.A few of my customers have done this and asked me to replace the brushes only,but generally this is a short lived fix.(kinda like taking a bath and putting dirty socks back on.)