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Your truck has a bad starter,I own a starter/alternator rebuild shop and have heard this description many times.customer will tell me truck starts ,,but not like it used to.The starter has four brushes in it,two for the positive and two for the negative.when we tear these units apart we find that they are generally cranking on one hot brush because the other one is worn out.
If you will take the starter off of the truck,all you have to do is remove the end cap and look for yourself.A few of my customers have done this and asked me to replace the brushes only,but generally this is a short lived fix.(kinda like taking a bath and putting dirty socks back on.)
Wow, this is good information.
After nearly 30 years as a mechanic, I'm never too old to learn.
Your truck has a bad starter,I own a starter/alternator rebuild shop and have heard this description many times.customer will tell me truck starts ,,but not like it used to.The starter has four brushes in it,two for the positive and two for the negative.when we tear these units apart we find that they are generally cranking on one hot brush because the other one is worn out.
If you will take the starter off of the truck,all you have to do is remove the end cap and look for yourself.A few of my customers have done this and asked me to replace the brushes only,but generally this is a short lived fix.(kinda like taking a bath and putting dirty socks back on.)
Just as I suspected in post #4.....just not NEARLY the explanation as this! Great info! Reps given for sure on that one
BOY... it's really good to be driving my baby again. Benjamin and I switched back to our own vehicles this evening when he left to go back to school, and we both couldn't be happier. As much fun (and inexpensive) as it is to drive his little 5-speed Jetta TDI... there's NOTHING like driving my truck again!
Now I'm going to be listening and watching closely for any changes. Already found one... sounds like I have either a front wheel bearing with low grease or a dragging caliper pin - oscillating wheel/tire noise that's louder than it was, and oscillates with a wider range between the high/low sounds. I'm pretty sure it's going to be a caliper pin or two. Hopefully, I can check it out this coming weekend.
Just to keep up with Dad...
It's really great to be driving my little Jetta! I missed my car. Still, Dad's truck is pretty fun to drive as well. I just like my car better. I guess it's good that Dad and I are both happiest driving our own vehicles.
Well, after letting the truck sit for several days, I checked the HPOP reservoir level again and found it at exactly 1 inch from the top, which is right where it needs to be.
Sooooo... I'm now seriously considering one of those heavy duty, high torque starters from DB electrical because the starting is definitely much longer when cold than it used to be.
hope you have thr same results I did.Symptoms sounded like mine
been real happy with it and all the products I've ordered from them,just got 5th order thurs
order up before 3 PM tomorrow brown truck should have it Wed
Pete, just to be on the safe side, have you considered a buzz test on the cold injectors to see if they sound more faint than when they're warm? I know your UOA's come back good, but I'd be a little concerned with sticking poppets in the colder weather.
Chris (rampage350) has a cool gauge that will do a buzz test. Doesn't he live in your neck of the woods?
Would a weak electric motor make a noticeable difference in a cold engine? I don't know, that's why I'm asking.
It will. if the oil is cold and thicker the starter will have to work harder to turn the motor over, this causesmore of a draw fron the battery and thus a lower voltage wich will slow the starter even more. So if the starter is a bit on the weak side to begin with it will draw even more from the battery and spin even slower.
OK... here's another thought and observation I had just this morning. It was certainly colder than it has been on my recent "cold starts".
The starter is not spinning slowly... that baby is spinning fast and does not have any clicking or any other indication of having trouble engaging.... it's just that the engine is taking longer to fire... much longer this morning. Three seconds... no fire... switch off... switch on... 3 seconds and finally firing off. I've never had this kind of "slow" start before except when one of my batteries was dead, but even then I the electronic drag on the system pointed to the obvious battery strength problem.
Could the GPR or GP's themselves not be loading up enough to get a good "cold condition" fire?
Not discounting your suggestion, either, Chris, and I just happen to be running down into Rampage's neck of the woods tomorrow, so I'll try to contact him about potentially helping me with a buzz test on the injectors, too.
ADDITIONAL NOTE:
I am getting a slight hesitation, or skip, on acceleration... worse when it's not up to temps, and the SES light came on the other evening. I've already switched out my CPS unit - from gray to original black - and that apparently has not made a difference. I have the truck at the tire shop now for rotation/balance and re-alignment, and they said they can pull the codes for me, which I should have in the next hour or so.