Started removing my turbo today to replace the o-rings. I had some running around to do so I didn't get started until late. I let the motor cool down good and then I started soaking the bolts down with PB Blaster. I did this several times throughout the day. Didn't really start wrenching until about 3:30 or 4. Took the orange boot off the intake side and saw that it was split under the clamp. Ran to the Ford dealer in Brenham but they didn't have one. Closest one is in Austin, so I guess I'll be taking the bike over there tomorrow AM rain or shine.

So here's where I'm at: Got the Y pipe and rear lift ring off, easy of course. Got the two top bolts off the up-pipe manifold. I bought stubby wrenches to remove the bottom bolts. I can get the wrenches on, but I can't get any leverage on them. I think these are the two bolts that Cody was talking about when he said to use a short or cut-off wrench and a pry bar. I didn't really see a place that I thought was safe to pry against, so I thought I would move on to the EBPV, thinking that if I could move it a little it would give me more working room. These instructions (thanks to Jose Bond ) said to use a wrench for this, but I had to use a socket on a 1/2" drive breaker bar to break the top two loose, and there was no way I was going to break the bottom one loose with a little combo wrench. I soaked the remaining bolts down with PB Blaster again and will go back at it when I get back from Austin tomorrow. I sure hope I don't break any of those bolts off.

Oh and just for kicks, I took a shot at that rear passenger side pedestal bolt. That's gonna be a lot of fun. It will be easier if and when I get the EBPV off. I can't even see the rear bolt on the driver's side. According to the article it's supposed to be easier to remove.

 

The EBPV Is just removing the bar on the bottom of the turbo. You must be trying the four bolts on the exhaust housing. If you remove that it will be much easier to get the lower manifold/up pipe onthe passenger side, and the pedestal bolt. I always ahve the most problem with the two on the drivers side. The ped bolt is by feel only, ifyou remove the exhaust housing you can get your fingers in from the passenger side to line up. The lower manifold bolt is usally done with a 1\4 swivel socket expanded to a 3/8 or 1/2 extension with a bar. First time I rounded that bolt of and took a dremel with a flex attachment and tiny grinding wheel sliced the bolt just shy of the threads and then broke it with a chisel. These turbos are a PITA. GOOD LUCK

 

Well, it's the three bolts in step #9 of this article.

 

I removed my turbo with my tranny off so it was very easy. I am not suggesting removing the tranny but it did make me think that it may be easier to get to those bolts if you unbolt the tranny crossmember bolts. Then try lifting the tranny up till it hits the hump/doghouse, that may give you more room on the top. Or you removed the tranny crossmember and lowered the tranny and try to get to the bolts from beneath. Like I said mine was off but it just makes you wonder.

 

Brain fart-- your right--I was thinking actuator arm. Its the EBPV. It would alomost impossible to get the exhaust housing out with out screwing something up. Three bolts. Last one I ended up snapping off but didn't care because I was changing out the housing to 1.0

 

I just pulled my turbo last week for a new turbine housing and downpipe... it's still sitting on the garage floor while I shift the firewall for the downpipe.

The two lower nuts on the turbine inlet flange are a pain... but the driver's side rear pedestal bolt is worse. See Cuda_Jim's response to my question last week...[URL="https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/783096-turbo-removal-help.html#post6640576"] Without that help, I would still be working on it.

For the driver's side lower flange nut, first pull the top bearing housing to turbine housing bolt... you'll gain some clearance. For the nut itself, get a quality 15 mm shallow swivel socket. I had a 3/8 drive socket, 3/8 to 1/2 adapter, 6" extension, 24" breaker bar, and about 2' of pipe for extra leverage. Get a block of wood to rest the head of the breaker bar against... I recollect having the wood against the compressor housing, breaker bar to the passenger side, and pulling to the front of the truck. The passenger's side flange nut is a bit easier to access, but still needs either a swivel socket or a U-joint on a shallow socket.

The passenger's side rear pedestal bolt yielded to a 10 mm ratcheting box-end... had enough room to swing the wrench. Both front bolts are pretty simple. For the driver's side rear... reach down and feel around to get an idea where it is. Assemble a quality 10 mm 1/4" drive swivel socket, 3" or 4" 1/4" drive extension, then 1/4 to 3/8 adapter. Drop this "stick" down between the bearing housing, turbine housing, and turbine flange. Get your other hand down to where you felt the bolt, and guide the stack onto the bolt. Grab your ratchet or breaker bar and a block of wood to support the head against the firewall. You'll want the drive tool towards the driver's side, pushing towards the firewall. Once the bolt is free, put a magnet on the "stick" to keep the bolt in the socket while you pull everything out.

Yeah, it's a pain. Remember to replace the bearing-housing-to-turbine-housing bolt that you pulled earlier.

 

Thanks for the replies y'all. Sorry I've been away for a while. I've been pretty sick for the better part of a week. I had sinus congestion already at the time of my last post, and 130 mile round trip to Austin and back on the bike didn't help any. I just got back on the truck this afternoon, and I have a few questions:

As I said, I went to Austin to get the orange boot for the turbo inlet. What they sold me is a kit that replaces the original part. Here is the comparison:



Here is the condition of the original boot:



I suppose the ABS-looking connector is to replace the longer metal one now in use, thus the longer inlet hose to make up the difference. I don't really like the idea of using a less-than-perfect part, but I wonder if this replacement part will impact performance in any way, though I don't really see how. So, should I use the old part and return the new one and get my $130 back? I probably won't... I need to button this thing up tonight or tomorrow morning.

Second question: I noticed a slight nick in one of the blades on the intake side. There is very little up and down play and there doesn't seem to be any in and out play at all. There are obvious signs that the turbo has been removed by a previous owner, and I figure that is how the nick occurred. Here is a picture of it:



Should this be a cause for concern?

Third question: The o-rings I took out were black, and felt much harder than the Ford o-rings I am replacing them with. Maybe this is due to exposure to oil and heat. Also, when a previous owner installed these, he used some kind of gray colored silicone or other sealant on the mating surfaces. This sealant had also squeezed down onto the old o-rings. I am not planning to use any sealant. I figure that if something was needed there would be gaskets, and none of the articles I've read for this procedure mentioned the use of any sealant. My hope is that the methods used in the last attempt are the major cause of my current leaks. That, and the fact that the rear pedestal bolts were not very tight. My question is, SHOULD I use a sealant, and are the Ford o-rings in fact some special compound to help combat further leaks? Here is a comparison of an old and a new o-ring:



Fourth question: I have read the procedure for gutting the EBPV. What exactly is the advantage in this? I thought that there was the possibility of oil leakage in this area, and this was the reason. But I can't see where any oil circulates in this area. Also, were I to go ahead and remove the EBPV, is removal of the actuator rod a matter of simply removing the snap ring and sliding the cylinder out? I would love to have this out of the way as it would give easier access to a couple of bolts.

Here is a summary of my removal. I was able to remove the EBPV before removing the turbo. For the rear bolt I used a 5/16" combo and put the end of a hammer handle against it to push and break the bolt loose. Then I cut an 8mm (same size) combo wrench in half to give me enough room to finish getting the bolt out. (Couldn't get my fingers around it.) After removing the three bolts and disconnecting the acuator rod, I tapped the housing firmly with a block of wood and a hammer and it came right out. This made removal of the bottom passenger side up pipe bolt very easy. It also gave me better acces to the passenger side rear pedestal bolt. In my opinion, this was the hardest bolt to remove. It was easy enough to break loose, but you can only go up so far with a socket, and then you have to use a wrench. My short fat fingers never could get a good enough purchase on the bolt to unscrew it by hand, even though it turned very easily. When I got to within probably one turn of having the bolt free, I could no long slide the combination end of my wrench over the top of the bolt. There was not enough room to get the box end on, so I took a Taiwanese 10mm box end and ground the sides down until I did have enough room. The driver's side rear pedestal bolt was easy enough to remove. I could not see it and I could not reach it to feel it. But, I could feel the groove behind the EBPV cylinder, and knew that the bolt was at the bottom of it. I just put my 10mm swivel socket on an extension and fished it down there until it was in place. The question now is, how the hell am I going to get the bolt back in place to get it started when I reinstall? I'm thinking I might pack the hole in the turbo pedestal with axle grease and hopefully that will hold the bold in place while I get the turbo back in place. If not, something else will come to mind I guess.

 

Nah, didn't have to do all that... crazy idea to begin with. I just put the bolt in the hole, put the turbo assy back in place, started the other three bolts and the driver's side rear bolt went right on in. Ran out of light and will pick it back up tomorrow.