A few weeks ago I ordered my V and B codes. I waited until today to start the install. I have had nothing but problems today, and I have a few questions.

My first mistake was working nights the day before. No matter how much I try I just don't get enought sleep and when I started my day was half over. Plus the little things just make me get real quickly.

Second mistake is my garage. It a pretty good size but unfortunately filled with other projects too and the Ex is a big making just a narrow walk/work way around it. Plus my air filter is mounted on the ceiling just above my Ex, so I can not get it way up in the air without the roof hitting the filter.

Third mistake is me. I know this is a two person job, but... what are you gonna do?

I started with the rears and I had to take of the RAS first, no big deal. Then started with torch on the spring bolts. Got the first side done OK but have some questions about the modded spring. I can't button it up till tomorrow when I get my new U bolts made. Guy wanted my old ones for a pattern.

Passenger side was a problem. Could not get the rear spring bolt to break free. Torch, breaker bar and all. Nada. Decided to remove the hanger bolt. Worked good on driver side why not the passenger side right? Got the nut off, but I could not get the bolt out. Rachet, pry bar, sledge, impact, you name it I tried it. Got high from PB blaster too. After three blanking hours on that bolt, I had it half way out. Cut it flush so I could drive it back in and pull it out. Too bad, I didn't cut enough of it. I literally had to 16th of inch one each side holding that mother in. Pry, cut, drink, yell, pry, cut, drink, yell. Finally.....

Now here is my serious question. When I was modding the B's, I noticed that the springs were not centered on the pin/bolt. When I put my old two lower leafs on they were not centered either. Is there a right or a wrong way to stack the leafs together? Is there a forward faceing of the springs? My longer sides from the bolts went to the rear along with the overload. I am hoping that is right.

After that mess, it was 10:00 pm and my air compressor had been running nonstop, so I thought I would give the neighbor's a break and quit.

Now, I have to track down another spring shackle bolt tomorrow too.

Next question. How many bolts and where are they to take off the front bumper? The fronts need to go on and off better than the rears or I am walking to work this week.

Thanks for the help,

Yes, I took measurements too. Will have photos when its all done someday....

Hunter 9905

 

Sorry to hear about your bolt troubles, I got lucky when I did my swap, all the bolts cooperated.
The front bumper (on my '05) has 6 bolts that hold it on, 2 on each side just next to the tow hooks and one on each side behind the bumper in the wheelwell that goes from the bumper to the frame.
Yes the longer side of the spring leaves go towards the rear.
Don't forget to apply some heat to the front spring front bolts to soften up the factory thread locker, it makes life much easier.
Good Luck!

 

Lots of questions, so I'll try to answer them in order:

Yes, one side of those bottom two leaves are slightly longer than the other. It's key to note what side is the front of the spring and the back of the spring so you don't inadvertently turn them around.

Unmodified B's on the top:


Stock Springs...green arrows are the two leaves you are using to modify the B's:


The vice grips are on the spring pack bolt - you can see one side is longer than the others.

Modded B:


Here is a shot of the stock springs...you can see the bottom two leaves are longer on the aft end of the spring:


If you have the stock springs, you should be able to tell from the 'rub' marks how they sat.

If you don't have a front hitch installed, there are 4 on the front of the bumper (2 by each tow hook)...then you'll need to take off the bumper support bolts that fasten the bumper support to the frame. Passenger side looking forward:


Driver side looking forward:


If you have a front hitch installed via the frame instead of the blocker beam, you will probably need to remove the tow hooks...three bolts each, from the underside, and they are set up in a way to be "locked" the entire time...so an impact gun with an extension will make life much easier.

You do NOT want to try to remove the bumper yourself...it's VERY EASY for the bumper ends to scratch the fenders just behind the turn signals. You've been warned.

Fronts are tough...remove the lower radiator mounts to make access to the front spring bolts easier, and use heat to counteract the blue Lock-Tite. I had the most difficulty lining up the axle when putting it all back together...needed ratchet straps, patience and some new cuss words.

 

Thanks,

Stuff like this is why this site has quickly become a favorite go to site. Thanks again.

Hunter

 

Hunter, did you see the thread I created where I had all the guys who have done this mod chime in with install tips?

I saved it to the Excursion Tech Folder stickied at the top of the Excursion forum.

Here's the link to the tech forum regarding the install tips: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11373753

And here's the install tip list from the above link:

Below is a long list of installation hints, tips, tricks and help for anyone doing this mod:

• Remove the front bumper to access the front spring-eye bolts. Anything less makes it more work for you to get to those bolts.
• Unbolt rear A/C lines to be able to remove bolt in rear spring on passenger side.
• Don't reuse U-bolts. They are not intended to be reused.
• U-bolts can be custom made to length by a good spring shop for about 1/2 the cost of the dealer.
• For the front U-bolts, use the same length as the factory ones.
• For the rear U-bolts, if you're going with a Modified B Code, have them made 1" longer than the OEM's to accommodate the two extra springs as well as the 1/8 spacers used from the Ex spring pack.
• Don't forget new center pins for the rear springs if doing a Modded B code.
• The 30 mm swaybar off of a Super Duty is much better than the stock ones if your Excursion came with one.
• A Hellwig rear sway bar is as good as the Super Duty bar.
• Don't forget to get new sway bar bushings for the front as well
• Do not purchase cheaper aftermarket springs. They are not made to the same specifications. (This one is very subjective, given the different shops throughout the US)
• If you don't have access to a lift, use jack stands rated high enough to handle the weight of the Excursion, and big enough to place the Ex high enough to allow floor jacks to be used to maneuver and manipulate the springs under the Ex.
• Speaking of floor jacks, make sure you have at least two. Trust me, having at least two of them makes life extremely easier.
• After unbolting the springs, using a homemade cheater bar or crow bar to flip the spring over and slide the springs off of the axle upside down to make it easier for you.
• Use a floor jack under the axle when installing the springs. It makes it a lot easier to manipulate the axle into position to line up the springs to the mounting point.
• Use another jack to push the front spring-eye into alignment.
• Same advice with the rear spring-eye. Hit the shackle with a hammer to align easier.
• Hit and turn the shackle bolts when installing. They have a pointed end to make alignment easier.
• Install the front shackle bolts in the opposite direction they came out. That way you won't need to remove the A/C support next time.
• Clean and paint everything before you bolt it all back together.
• Bring a friend and share a few brews during the day-long event.
• Unbolt the front driveshaft to get the driver's side (front) rear spring-eye bolt out.
• Another option for removing the driver's side rear spring-eye bolt is to jack the axle and spring up. This allows you to push the bolt out OVER the driveshaft without any problems. Most seem to want to take it out by going under the driveshaft.
• Take your time and use ratchet straps in conjunction with a jack to get the axle in position to get the center pin lined up. It's a lot easier than trying to muscle it around and it can be done in slow motion instead of bursts of strength.
• Use a propane torch or similar to heat up the spring-to-frame and spring-to-shackle nuts. It makes it much easier to get them off since they use Loctite during assembly.
• Have a fire extinguisher handy if you use a propane torch or other open flame.
• Use PB Blaster to loosen nuts up. Apply it in the days leading up to the job.
• Be careful using an open flame if you used PB Blaster.
• Regarding Modified B codes, use C-clamps when disassembling the spring packs and reassembling them, to make it easier to get the center spring pack bolts off and on.
• Have a step bit to open up the top plates on the modified B codes to allow the center spring pack bolt to fit through. You don't have to grind the nut down and ruin it.
• Use something to make sure the axle doesn't get too close to the ground and bend the brake shields. 4x4 scraps work great, so do extra jack stands.
• Verify you have the right torque specs before starting and a torque wrench that goes to 200ft/lbs.
• If you get a B Code spring with the top overload, remove the top overload leaf and the 1" block from the new rear B codes to avoid crushing rear A/C lines.
• You can disconnect front & rear sway bar ends/links to make moving the axles easier, if you choose.
• Snug down the U-bolt nuts and spring bolts only, until the full weight of the Excursion is on the axle. Once the full weight of the Ex is on the axle, tighten down all the bolts to torque specs.
• Take height measurements of the Excursion (front left & front right, rear left & rear right) from the bottom center lip of the wheel-well to the center of the wheel hub and record them before you start. Then after the install, take new measurements from the same points.

List compiled by:
Stewart_H; broncorif; Hunter,DDS; White Buffalo; wpnaes; Nicmike; robert_l_ross; Red Ex; Skinsfan6; WE3ZS;

Hope all this helps.

Stewart

 

My university teacher shed light on why the passenger side is usually more corroded and seized and why brakes can often wear more on that side, road salt sand dirt and any other debris tends to get pushed to the right side especially when the road is crowned or plowed then it all gets pushed aside, causing more Crap to accumulate there then ending up affecting the passenger side of vehicles worse thanx driver sides.

 

Just a little FYI but I created the B mod etc...and have helped thousands mod their excursions...over the last 8 years.

 

Not to cause negativity brother, but IIRC, didn't a user on the old TDS give you the idea? I remember you pretty much perfected it (and how), but (and it's been many years now, so my memory could very well be wrong) I was pretty sure someone either posed the idea, or tried it and it intrigued you, so when you did it you nailed it and the rest is history.

BTW, welcome to FTE! Your expertise is more than welcome here, brother!

Stewart

 

Well the B code "Mod" was my idea...as were the Bilsteins I spec.....many of us were trying to solve the problems back then..on TDS Some tried front V and W code combo F codes in the rear, Land yots etc....I tried them but didn't like the results..

Yes I combined all the info and added my own mods to come up with what generally is accepted the answer to the Excursion handling problems

V codes and the 30mm sway bar came from.....dam can't remember the name but well respected ..its late and a long week but when I remember I'll post back...I'm embarrassed I can't remember his name!

 

Bruce, perchance?

1954 something or other...I can't remember either!

Bruce1954, yes?

Stewart

 

Now THAT I remember well. Why? Because I remember thinking better you, than me, because I can't afford the trial and error you were going through.

IIRC, didn't you try (or at least contemplate) using a lift kit to eliminate The Wander?

I think you used one but didn't like the harsh results (or your wife didn't), so you tried another path. That was one example (if I'm remembering correctly) of me thinking, "Damn, I wish I had his money!"

I like the hangers you developed. Very well made. Didn't you try an aftermarket hanger first, not like it, then had your own made?

See, I have CRS too.

Stewart

 

Cary,

I have read that much of the wander cures were from yoru trial and errors and knowledge. I just didn't want to bother you directly. I will use this time to to say thank you. Your help has helped others which in turn have helped me.

I did get my truck back on the road. I have about 150 miles on it.

I hope to get a separate post with new pics and observations this weekend.

Hunter 9905

 

For those of you that have done the install yourselve I have a question. On the V codes did you complete one side at a time? As in taking the dr side apart and back together and then move on to the pass. Or does it work better to have everything apart? Just curious because of the issues with lining everything back up.

 

I'd remove the DS from the axles, sway bar links and track bar..then remove the springs..this allows you to move the axles much easyer to line all back up.

 

I did mine one at a time because I was afraid that it would "slip" front-to-rear if both sides were off (I did mine with jacks/jack stands). The passenger side went fairly easy, but the driver side did slip some (to the rear) and I had to use ratchet straps (and a lot of swearing and pushing and levering and swearing) to get it back into place.

Not sure if this was because I loosened all of the U bolts before starting and then tightened one side (passenger) first or not. I guess it could have been that when I tightened the passenger side, that torque 'turned' the axle (pushing the driver side aft).

Someone offered (after I completed of course) that they only snugged the U bolts, then dropped the vehicle, THEN torqued them down. I think mine was aggravated by the torque applied when I tightened down the passenger side, but I'll never know.