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question for the guys with tranny knowledge

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Old 10-13-2008, 06:30 PM
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question for the guys with tranny knowledge

i got an E4od just had rebuilt last dec. put in billet conveter, shafts and stupidly didn ' t do a shift kit or new solnoids like i should have. i have had a slight problem shifting into third if you hammer on it and don ' t back off before it shifts it bangs/shifts very firm,But if you back off a tad bit before it shifts its fine! Its only this one gear its been screwy since i bought my rig. even rebuilding the tranny made no differance. I ' m getting good at knowing her shift points lol, But i just bought a bullydog power pup programmer cheap from a friend who totaled his truck and have a fear of blowing the tranny up i put $2,000 into the tranny already. i was thinking of replacing the solnoid pack and install a shift kit i know that can be done while its still in the truck. am i getting in to a can of worms or has this happened to any body else? if it has happened before how do i fix this problem? Thanks a lot guys Kristopher W.
 
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Old 10-13-2008, 07:01 PM
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if it has no shift kit of any kind you should have sloppy shifts, no matter what internal components you installed. my money rests on a sticking valve in your accumulator body.
 
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Old 10-13-2008, 07:31 PM
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hey joe is that an easy fix? i have rebuilt an e40d once before but not on this truck is does shift a bit sloppy now that the programmer is installed. i know that the accumulator body is next to the solnoid pack. is this something i should try and fix or take it back to the shop i had it rebuilt. part of my problem is i brought them the tranny and had them bench build it. It was a hell of a lot cheaper
 
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Old 10-13-2008, 07:37 PM
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I agree with Joe on a sticky valve. More than likely the shop would charge you to looks at it and fix it. The accumulator body is easy to get to and check out. Its the forward most body under the pan. Drop the pan remove the filter and get the body on the bench. You should be able to use a small screw driver to check a small amount of movement on each of the valves. Then rip it apart and check for scoring and wear on the piston and bore.
 
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Old 10-13-2008, 07:43 PM
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the only thin gi will add to what tj said is pictures!!!



 
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Old 10-13-2008, 07:45 PM
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thanks Tim now when i go to check this should i just buy the springs a valves and replace them anyway or should i check it first. Also if the are scored or damaged where can i buy tranny parts with out buying the complete rebuild kit?
 
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Old 10-13-2008, 07:47 PM
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sorry guys tried to rep you but i got spread some more love first lol!
 
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Old 10-13-2008, 07:49 PM
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dont buy the springs first, inspect for scouring in the body, you may need to replace it. you can order them through ford, i dont recall the price but if you have no choice but to buy a new body then you might as well spend the 225 it costs to buy a bts body, its the same thing but you arnt paying an arm and a leg for the valve body and then buying springs at anotherr 75-80 bucks
 
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Old 10-13-2008, 07:50 PM
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also, any e4od or 4r100 accumulator body will work, they are identical. try a junkyard but it seems that most places wont sell just the body
 
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Old 10-13-2008, 07:55 PM
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Check it out first. then see where you need to head. If you do need parts, like Joe said, I would get a Tuned VB but I would get it from RacerX.
Racer X Automotive

Also Joe I don't know about the E4 versus 4R but not all the E4 Accumulator bodies are the same. There are a few small differences in the casting and tuning of them witht he cut off between the two being 1995.
 
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Old 10-13-2008, 08:58 PM
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Also will agree with Tj and Joe on first place to look.
WAG is elevated EPC from the chip can side load the
accumulator valve. Drop the VB as stated and check.
See what valve is installed, oem is alum and replacements can be steel.
Toss them due to they are junk!!! Get sonnax valves for 2 reasons.
1- They are backcut to allow fulltime fluid for lube and cooling of the clutches.
2- They have a grove cut in them to keep the valve centered in the bore.
This prevents the side loading.

Here is a link.
http://www.sonnax.com/instructions/36948-09K-IN.pdf

Bill
 
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Old 10-13-2008, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by MADVAN
Also will agree with Tj and Joe on first place to look.
WAG is elevated EPC from the chip can side load the
accumulator valve. Drop the VB as stated and check.
See what valve is installed, oem is alum and replacements can be steel.
Toss them due to they are junk!!! Get sonnax valves for 2 reasons.
1- They are backcut to allow fulltime fluid for lube and cooling of the clutches.
2- They have a grove cut in them to keep the valve centered in the bore.
This prevents the side loading.

Here is a link.
http://www.sonnax.com/instructions/36948-09K-IN.pdf

Bill
This is where I bought mine
E4OD : TransMichigan Automatic Transmission Parts!, Sonnax Transmission Parts
 
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Old 10-13-2008, 09:24 PM
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ah, tim, i stand corrected, the early bodies have a different seperator plate and accumulator for moving fluid, it would be bad to inermix those....lol its easy to tell when you have them side by side for someone that doesnt know the differences.
 




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