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#46
11-10-2010, 09:13 PM
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Location: Anderson, SC
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I like Bill H. and Amsoil both - A LOT.
Nothing is always perfect, and that's the case with Bill and Amsoil. But I think both are about 90% right on the money.
I run Amsoil 5W30 with the Amsoil bypass system and change my oil at 10k miles or one year, whichever comes first. I use Prolong (oil) and Stanadyne (diesel). The combination of all of these makes my truck noticeably smoother running and quieter. But most importantly, consistent. Prior to all that, sometimes I'd get a rough start, a skip once in a while and lost two injectors… Now I have a smooth starting/running engine - 100% of the time.
Nothing is always perfect, and that's the case with Bill and Amsoil. But I think both are about 90% right on the money.
I run Amsoil 5W30 with the Amsoil bypass system and change my oil at 10k miles or one year, whichever comes first. I use Prolong (oil) and Stanadyne (diesel). The combination of all of these makes my truck noticeably smoother running and quieter. But most importantly, consistent. Prior to all that, sometimes I'd get a rough start, a skip once in a while and lost two injectors… Now I have a smooth starting/running engine - 100% of the time.
#47
11-28-2010, 01:44 PM
#48
12-09-2010, 02:23 PM
Posting Guru
The only reason why I even bothered to buy the stuff was because of a local car talk radio show had these mechanic guys consisitantly plug the stuff and in the past I trusted their mechanical aptitude.
They were right, the stuff is slick.
I'll look into this stuff again on the net and maybe find more on it.
I think for the 7.3 oil capacity,it took 3 bottles.
On another note, there is one of the videos you guys are talking about with Bill where he didn't edit it out it's just raw video. I think it was after lunch too
Buuuurrrp!
They were right, the stuff is slick.
I'll look into this stuff again on the net and maybe find more on it.
I think for the 7.3 oil capacity,it took 3 bottles.
On another note, there is one of the videos you guys are talking about with Bill where he didn't edit it out it's just raw video. I think it was after lunch too
Buuuurrrp!
#49
12-17-2010, 06:32 AM
I agree with you. That is why I trusted him. I thought that the negative feedback was from dealership mechanics who were unwiling to think outside of the box. There were a few posts that said that he was ok and those were the posts that I relied upon when I took my truck to him. My point was that if he is as good as he says, then how did he not know that he wasn't communicating with the control module? I don't know the first thing about it myself. I couldn't hook up a computer and diagnose an engine, but I am not a mechanic and don't claim to be. I was actually defending him at first stating that possibly he was misled by a junior mechanic who told him that there were no fault codes and he assumed that his mechanic correctly checked the ECM. The Ford mechanic knew immediately that he wasn't reading the module. Why did this other guy not know this? Or was it Bill himself? There are enough posts to say that this guy isn't the best. I am only providing my experience for others to make an informed opinion. More qualified techs state that he provides some bizarre tips. Again, since I am not a mechanic, I can't comment on this. I think that I would know if I was looking at a blank screen and deciding that there were no fault codes versus a screen that was giving was version of a program that I was connected to and a menu of what I wanted to do. Anyway, bottom line is my truck is repaired. Money is very tight at my house and this is $800 that I really didn't need to spend at this time. I could have had it repaired for $243 rather than over $1000. A learning experience. I will be taking my truck back to the dealer for future service and scheduled maintence.
#50
12-17-2010, 02:00 PM
Posting Guru
If you put a scratch in my paint, that would be fine if you fixed the scratch.
No way will 15Q of engine oil cover the time, money, hassel that guy had.
#51
07-18-2011, 02:50 PM
#52
07-18-2011, 11:15 PM
Cargo Master
The advice will vary. That is the problem. The consensus is that the egr and egr cooler are issues. Some delete them some re engineer them. The oil cooler is a issue and you either replace it with a aftermarket one or solve the coolant issue plagueing them. Next is heads. The tty bolts need to go if you want it bp. Next adress the lack of a fp gauge. Then preform maintence and drive the **** out of it.
BPPSD
#54
07-19-2011, 12:12 AM
Cargo Master
#55
07-19-2011, 06:16 AM
I guess I will have to disagree somewhat w/ you lubbockguy. I agree, that reading all you can (including other forums) is wise, but I watch a dozen boards and I don't see a lot of contradictory advice.
Gauges are crucial - monitor ECT, EOT, boost, fuel pressure, voltage (minimum)
Oil coolers plugging on the coolant side can happen to any year model. If oil coolers plug, then the restricted coolant flow can cause the EGR cooler to fail. In extreme cases the oil cooler can also fail - it is a BIG and COSTLY mess.
FICMs (fuel injection control modules) are frequent failure parts - but seem to be related to poor battery/alternator health/maintenance. The FICM's are expensive, but good reliable repairs are not (and if you are good w/ el;ectronics, you may be able to make the soldering repairs yourself)
The later (05 and up) EGR coolers (square ones) are weaker than the round ones.
03 and 04 high pressure oil pumps are weaker than the later models.
03 and early 04 ICP (injection control pressure) sensors are know for having issues and the sensor location on these year models makes it very hard to get to.
05 and up years have issues w/ the discharge fitting off of the high pressure oil pump (HPOP) - called the snap-to-connect (STC) fitting.
The 03 engines do not have dummy plugs and standpipe leak issues, the later engines do. Note - the HPO system was redesigned somewhat in 04 and then in 05 to accomodate a new HPOP and relocation of the ICP sensor.
Some injector improvements were introduced in mid 04. IMO they really helped reliability. All year models seem susceptible to low fuel pressure - which is one of the most frequent causes of injector failure. An upgraded fuel pressure regulator spring is cheap and readily available - and easily installed.
Injector stiction is another common cause for injector failure. This is caused by several things, but poor choice in engine oils and poor oil and filter maintenance is detrimental to injector spool valve operation.
The early water pumps had smaller impellors and were less reliable.
Lots more differences, but maybe I hit the "biggies".
Don't be worried though - There are solutions to all of these issues and buying a used 6,0L can be a great value!
Here are a few good threads to read:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...used-6-0l.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-look-for.html
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 679pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=906 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 679pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 32000" width=906><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 22.45pt; mso-height-source: userset" height=30><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 679pt; HEIGHT: 22.45pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=30 width=906 align=left>Posts summarizing the differences in model years:</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.9pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 679pt; HEIGHT: 12.9pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl25 height=17 width=906 align=left>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/848915-6-0l-difference-between-model-years.html</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.9pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 679pt; HEIGHT: 12.9pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl25 height=17 width=906 align=left>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/528476-differences-between-new-6-0-an-old-6-0-a.html#post3974497</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.9pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 679pt; HEIGHT: 12.9pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl25 height=17 width=906 align=left>http://turbodieselforums.com/diesel_9.pdf</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.9pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 679pt; HEIGHT: 12.9pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl25 height=17 width=906 align=left>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3972671&postcount=2</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
#56
07-19-2011, 09:39 AM
Cargo Master
My point on the contradiction was more to some say go all bullet proof. Oil cooler and egr cooler and other say delete the egr cooler. I think if you maintain the coolant and add a filter along with a egr delete you are money ahead of the bulletproof stuff. Not that they don't have their place in the market I just don't think they are nessisary. Bulletproof has some interesting products such as multiple stock oil coolers and ficms that look nice. A lot of people throw money at something and think it is a fix. That is not a fix in my opinion.
#57
07-19-2011, 11:53 AM
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