EOT gauge question
EOT gauge question
For those of you running analog gauges, what types of temps are you seeing for EOT and where did you mount your sender? When I got my gauges a little while back I read what seemed like hundreds of posts about sender mounting locations. The consensus seemed to be that an aluminum oil filter cap was the ticket...easy and gave good readings. Well, I think something must be wrong with mine. I had an Insight some time back, so I've got some historical data for comparison. My usual oil temps for my normal driving were 185* ~ 190*, now I only get about 160* with my NUC Motorsports cap. I had an extra sender, so I swapped it in...same thing. Then I moved the gauge in the pod, hooking it to the ECT circuit. The gauge read what the original ECT gauge read, so no problem with the gauge. When I hooked the ECT gauge to the EOT circuit, it would only read the 160* or so. I checked all the wiring and everything seemed fine. I use Racor oil filters that have the hole in the top, and when I remove the cap there is a healthy coating of oil on the inside and on the end of the sending unit. Any ideas as to what could be the problem? Is it the cap? I used teflon tape on the threads...was that wrong? I'm at a loss...BTW, I have done an EGR delete and upgraded oil drain tube since the Insight, but I can't imagine the oil temps changing that much from the delete and tube!
I can't speak to EOT OEM and aftermarket sender locations, but I did find out about transmission oil temps.
According to Mike Kovelsky, a former Ford transmission engineer, the OEM sender that my Scangauge II reads is in a location 10 - 15F higher than the typical aftermarket sender location on the upper right side of the case. I'm sure it can be a similar situation for any aftermarket sender.
It's not about sender or gauge calibration. It's all about sender location.
This is exactly why I bought a Scangauge II. It reads data from OEM senders. If EOT/ECT delta is supposed to be 15F or less, that's based on temps read from OEM senders in factory locations. Ford service diagnostics are all based on OEM sender data. If your aftermarket senders are in non-stock locations, how are you going know if your EOT/ECT delta is real?
Sure, an ISSPRO gauge is cool to look at and a strong arguement can be made for having a gauge set up completely independent circuit in case the OEM sender and/or gauge fails, but the data obtained from factory senders in factory locations feed the truck's computer to manage your engine.
The "real" temperatures are obtained with your Insight or Scangauge. If you want analog gauges with their own senders, run both and learn the adjustment factor for each gauge.
According to Mike Kovelsky, a former Ford transmission engineer, the OEM sender that my Scangauge II reads is in a location 10 - 15F higher than the typical aftermarket sender location on the upper right side of the case. I'm sure it can be a similar situation for any aftermarket sender.
It's not about sender or gauge calibration. It's all about sender location.
This is exactly why I bought a Scangauge II. It reads data from OEM senders. If EOT/ECT delta is supposed to be 15F or less, that's based on temps read from OEM senders in factory locations. Ford service diagnostics are all based on OEM sender data. If your aftermarket senders are in non-stock locations, how are you going know if your EOT/ECT delta is real?
Sure, an ISSPRO gauge is cool to look at and a strong arguement can be made for having a gauge set up completely independent circuit in case the OEM sender and/or gauge fails, but the data obtained from factory senders in factory locations feed the truck's computer to manage your engine.
The "real" temperatures are obtained with your Insight or Scangauge. If you want analog gauges with their own senders, run both and learn the adjustment factor for each gauge.
I don't care about the delta of EOT/ECT...I don't have an EGR cooler anymore. My factory water temp gauge reads the same from about 150* to upwards of 200*, not very reliable, with no oil temp gauge at all. I'm also not necessarily concerned with exactly matching the factory sensors...I know that my ECT sender being mounted on my coolant filter will read a little cooler (about 5* from previous Insight data), but I know that it is close and is giving me reliable, repeatable information. The EOT gauge is not giving me that feeling and I'm just curious what others are seeing from the filter cap installation to try to determine if something is wrong with my setup. I have machined a fitting to allow my EOT sender to replace my oil pressure dummy switch and also have a made a fitting to go in the test port on the front of the oil cooler (both should read the same as factory), but the question is: why is my cap installation reading so different from what others have said they read?
I believe that the filter cap location has a problem with cold airflow over the cap. I too, use that location and in winter I could NEVER get the EOT up to anywhere near normal. Summer was also ok. So this past fall, I wrapped the oil filer and sender probe area with a wad of about 4 wraps of insulation and - lo and behold - I was able to get the EOT temp to read correctly ( or closer to correctly anyway). After warmup, my EOT now reads 182-187. I KNOW the temp will get quite a bit higher when I start towing again. I will then be able to watch EOT and ECT's confidently!
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I believe that the filter cap location has a problem with cold airflow over the cap. I too, use that location and in winter I could NEVER get the EOT up to anywhere near normal. Summer was also ok. So this past fall, I wrapped the oil filer and sender probe area with a wad of about 4 wraps of insulation and - lo and behold - I was able to get the EOT temp to read correctly ( or closer to correctly anyway). After warmup, my EOT now reads 182-187. I KNOW the temp will get quite a bit higher when I start towing again. I will then be able to watch EOT and ECT's confidently!
No doubt it does...as did my Edge Insight, but that's not what I'm talking about.
Let's see. I can continue using my Scangauge II for EOT readings or I can put the sender in the wrong place and try to fix it with this:

What are you talking about, fastbee? Your aftermarket sender reports temperatures accurately for the location you decided as a mounting place. If you want the same temps as OBDII, put your sender in the same place as the factory sender.

What are you talking about, fastbee? Your aftermarket sender reports temperatures accurately for the location you decided as a mounting place. If you want the same temps as OBDII, put your sender in the same place as the factory sender.
Let's see. I can continue using my Scangauge II for EOT readings or I can put the sender in the wrong place and try to fix it with this:

What are you talking about, fastbee? Your aftermarket sender reports temperatures accurately for the location you decided as a mounting place. If you want the same temps as OBDII, put your sender in the same place as the factory sender.

What are you talking about, fastbee? Your aftermarket sender reports temperatures accurately for the location you decided as a mounting place. If you want the same temps as OBDII, put your sender in the same place as the factory sender.
Borrow a Scangauge or other OBDII reader and run it parallel with your non cotton candy covered oil filter. Then, you'll know 150F is really 164.75F and 180F is really 203.5F, and 193F is really 205.764F..... That's much easier than plugging in a Scangauge.
I'm asking, "Why Dick with it?"

I'm asking, "Why Dick with it?"
You can also get real close to it by pointing a laser temp reader at the water hose....... but- again - that isn't what he was asking..........
BTW, I can't SEE that ugly photo from my drivers seat!!!

BTW, I can't SEE that ugly photo from my drivers seat!!!










