After reading what I can find about this buzz test thing, I can't see a reason in the world why we can't make our own "Buzz Tester".

If I knew just what it is supposed to do and how it works, I'd do it in a heart beat.

Lets see,,, it obviously involves a high voltage supply to the coil and closing the circuit then opening it very rapidly, thus the "Buzz".

I don't know though if it uses AC or DC current??? Any input here?

It shouldn't be that difficult to setup even a basic "Buzzer" that only works one injector at a time...

Has anyone done this kind of thing before?

Catchup

 

Yes I unplugged the fuel bowl heater,,,
Still she no start...

 

I wasn't aware they had a Powerstroke file. What is the link to find it? I can read sensors and codes, but they are specific to the Powerstroke.

 

Just a couple thoughts. Your speedo and other glitches didn't start around the same time as the windsheild replacement like Kwik was asking did they ? If you had a plug in chip I"d say we found the problem. Been there done that. Are you the original owner, or is there a chance someone put a chip in there you don't know of ? You mention your autotap records all this info over time so where is it plugged in? Just like a chip anything plugged in that has a contact issue can cause all kinds of codes/problems. Does your wait to start light come on?

 

I found the Powerstroke files. You have to load an older version of Autotap. Thanks for the info. I am going to test it on mine.

 

What you're saying makes sense, but injectors are expensive. I'd hate to screw one (or more) up by applying current while attempting to buzz. The sound is the poppet bouncing off the upper and lower seat. I only suggested the buzz test to see if the IDM had communication with the injectors, although a bad PCM could cause no results in the buzz test also.

A bad injector solenoid can cause the IDM to shut down the entire bank of injectors, but loosing one on each side at the same time is pretty rare. You would also see a difference in the OHM readings for the bad injector (from the valve cover plug) than the rest of the injectors.

Have you tried measuring voltage at Pin E (center pin) to the battery ground with KOEO?

 

Well, in lew of a buzz test, I figured out how to ohm test the injectors to see if there were any faults...

First step:
Disconnect IDM connector and test resistance across common (High side) and each low side circuit for each injector and bank,,,
3.2 OHMS consistently across all circuits.

Second step: Beings I already had the valve covers off I isolated ALL of the injectors (removed the injector harness connectors from the injectors) and tested the coils individually with a section of the old UVCH that I cut up to make a test connector...
3.1 OHMS directly across the coil connector X 8.

Third step: I removed one of the coils from the engine, put it on the bench and read 3.1 OHMS. (I didn't remove all the coils, just the one)

I've read that from 3 to 5 OHMS is showing a good coil...
Is this correct for my early 1999 and beings how mine are on the very low side of that range, does it mean that I have 8 questionable injector coils???

More to come...
Catchup yup still beating it...

 

When you say coils are you referring to the solenoid? I've never bench tested one off the injector, but readings in the 3.2 range should be fine. If you had one or two down in the 2.5 range, I'd say they were suspect.

That kind of brings us back to the high readings you had with the OHM meter at the IDM connector. Did you check for continuity in the wiring between the IDM & Valve covers? It would be helpful to have someone wiggle the harness while checking continuity to make sure it's not an intermittent fault in the wiring. Have you checked voltage from the VC connector to the battery ground? Those are the last free tests I can think of before you start having to spend $$$.

Maybe someone else has better ideas.

 

I hope so...

If I could just make sure it's the IDM I'd get one but,,,
I hate to be labeled a "Parts changer"...

PS: Thanks for hanging in there with me...

Catchup

 

Unless you cussed at it, I'm not sure shouting would work.

Maybe there's someone close to you that will stick the questionable IDM in there truck to see if that's the problem. I'm still a little concerned with the P0605 code since there aren't a lot of items to check on the diagnostic tree before it gets to the "Replace PCM" part.

 

Yup, I got to go and check that truck in the AM and get some reference voltages and resistances to compare with...

Can you believe we got a truck given to us for a couple days that just happens to be a 1999 F-350 7.3L PSD, thank you Lord

Catchup

PS: I will post the results here...

 

When something like this happens, my advice is to stop what your doing and go buy a lottery ticket before your luck changes.

If the P0605 is just from disconnecting the batteries, then the IDM sounds like the place to start now that you just happen to have another one handy.

I'll be looking forward to hearing what you find.

 

Well guy's I have to say a great big thanks and here's what I did...

I new that the PCM was sending a signal to the IDM for the
Fuel Pulse Width. (I got a pulse reading on the scan tool)

I had isolated all the injectors from each other and OHMed them,
they all recorded 3.2 OHM's... This is within acceptable parameters
so the injector coils are all good.

I disconnected the IDM connector and the big square connector
that sets on top of the left valve cover and diligently searched for
a short or broken wire, both visually and electrically (continuity and ohms).
I satisfied myself there were no problems in the harness.

As stated I had already replaced the valve cover gaskets, UVC
wiring harness, glow plugs and the CMP sensor.

I determined that the only thing left between the PCM and the injectors
was the IDM. I ordered one from Auto Computer Exchange, (an ebay store)
for 159.95 + shipping. The total charge was just under $200.00. The part got here very quickly and I ran right out and stuck it in.

Bottom line,,, it started!
After all this, I really want to get some schematics and parts lists
for PCM's and IDM's and GEM's and start a little shop to rebuild them...

Anyone got any ideas along this line?
They don't really appear to be that complicated...

Anyway's thanks for all your help

Catchup

 

That's great news. Thanks for the follow up on this. All of your detailed testing was making it sound like the IDM, but I don't like to recommend someone drop $200 on a part because it sounds like it may be the issue.

I'll let you know if I can find anything on the IDM info. A couple of people come to mind that I'll ask.

 

do you know anyone else that has PSD you could take the idm out of it and put it in yours i think all7.3 PSD IDM's are enter change able not sure about the pcm