Can you run an injector buzz test? That would at least give you an idea if you've got communication from the PCM to IDM to injectors.

With all this cranking you've been doing, you might also check the oil level in the HPOP reservoir to make sure it hasn't drained down.

 

I have been trying to figure out this buzz test thing,,,
I have a AutoTap scan tool...
Don't know an awful lot about it but I'm learning...

I see all ove the net about buzz test but nowhere (yet) have I seen
just how to perform one...

Do I need a special tool or just a stethascope?

I know what it does,,, "engage all injectors" then buz one at a time...

But just how do you initiate a "Buzz Test"?

I really need to get this figured out guys...

Catchup

PS:::
I have checked the HPOP res and have filled it, once,,,
It seems to be maintaining level now, I've checked it several times...

 

Subscribing.
And big kudos for your very well detailed communication of the procedures, Catchup.
Looking at all you have done and in your opening post the motor was already running, then stalled out, and with the other goofy stuff like the vacuum pump not working, then working, I would give a hard look at the GEM.
.
Is your windshield seal in perfect condition?

 

Well,,, that's a new twist,,,

I wonder if someone out there can explain to me why I see modules listed even in repair manuals that start out with calling it a ECM (Engine Control Module?), then later it's ID'd as a PCM (Powertrain Control Module?)and when I pull the thing out of the truck and eyeball it, it's branded as an EEC (Electronic Engine Control)???

So just what is it that you are calling a GEM?
I believe that is a Generic Engine Module, correct?

Where is it on my 99 PSD?

Oh, and I'm still waiting for someone to tell me how to do a "Buzz test"

Hanging in there,,,
Catchup

PS: My windshield is in perfect condition, no leaks, no cracks.
My dog did nearly put his head through it a couple years ago,
busted it good he did. Truck stopped,,, he didn't... He's fine, didn't hurt him.
What does the windshield have to do with anything????

Catchup

 

GEM is the module right above the parking brake that has the fuses and all the wiring.
Common problem, windshield seal leaks water onto it and shorts it out.
Many electrical problems follow.

 

I guess I'll go dig the thing out and take a look at it...

Looking over alldata info there are a lot of functions in that circuit,
soooo,,, for lack of a better place to go, I'll go that direction and
hopefully I can eliminate things till I find something that's bad and
get this thing fixed...

Thanks for all your help, will followup on this too...

Catchup

PS:
I have removed and inspected, visually, the PCM and the IDM
and they are both in excellent condition. No moisture, no corrosion
no burn smell,,, I don't have the equipment to bench test these things
if someone out there does this I'd like to know where.
Grand Junction, CO. doesn't have anyone who does this, maybe I should
start a business...

 

Just a little info about the GEM, in general

MODULE CONTROLLED FUNCTIONS

NOTE: The Generic Electronic Module (GEM) must be reconfigured upon replacement. Refer to the NGS Tester help screen on the Ford Service Function (FSF) card to program tire size and axle ratio.

The generic electronic module (GEM/CTM) incorporates the functions of several different modules into one and offers diagnostics to easily locate and repair concerns affecting the subsystems that it controls.

The GEM/CTM constantly monitors the systems under its control and reports a concern in the form of a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) . A DTC can be retrieved with the New Generation STAR (NGS) Tester through the communication link.

The GEM/CTM has a sleep function to minimize battery consumption. During the sleep mode, the GEM/CTM turns off all outputs and monitors only the following:


Door ajar (driver door, passenger door, and both rear doors)
Ignition (KEY-IN, ACC, and RUN)
Remote entry (lock, unlock, and panic)
Brake/parking brake switch
Headlamp dimmer switch
If a change of status occurs at one of these inputs while the GEM/CTM is asleep, the GEM/CTM will "wake up". when the GEM/CTM awakens, it performs an internal self-test, and begins normal operation. At this point, all GEM/CTM functions will be operational.

During normal operation, the GEM/CTM can detect and record fault codes. An integral part of the normal GEM/CTM operation is continuous diagnostic capability. Continuous diagnostics detect errors and change the GEM/CTM control strategy. There is no warning lamp for the GEM/CTM; therefore, a GEM/CTM DTC will direct you to the physical fault. Examples of faults that may be detected during normal operation include:


GEM/CTM continuous self-test (RAM, ROM, EEPROM, A/D checking)
Output driver monitoring (opening circuit/short-to-ground or short to battery)
The GEM/CTM can only detect open circuit/short-to-ground faults when the GEM/CTM is not energizing a load, and short-to-battery faults when the GEM/CTM is attempting to energize a load. The GEM/CTM controls the following functions:


Wipers/washers
Warning chimes
Illuminated entry and courtesy lamps
One Touch-Down (OTD) driver power window
Remote keyless entry
Accessory delay
Electronic shift 4-wheel drive

It comes to mind the DTC regarding KAM (keep alive memory) that came up earlier
Catchup

 

Well, here goes,,,
Removed and disassembled (to board visualization level)
the following Electronic Control Modules:


1) PCM (AKA ECM) ((Powertrain Control Module))
EEC part number: (PCM)
AWA3 EEC-V FORD
DPC-401
F81F-12A650-AE *H2PWA2X6PDLN*
NPF 8 D10

NUMBER STAMPED ON CASING:
F7TF-14A638-AC
=======

2) IDM (Injector Driver Module)
IDM Part Number:
Ford PWB
Made in Brazil
IDM-110 SAEO
F7TF-12B599-AB
8 D14-3

7FAA0
*182VDLGC*
=======

3) GEM (Generic Engine Module) ((Not an easy thing to get to))
Built date: 04/16/1998 22:50 (I believe this is a time stamp)
F81B-14B205-XX (Can't read the final two letters)
20257-105
Ford/P131 GEM VERSION B (With a Very large B printed on the label)
There is a label on the fuse box, part of the whole assembly that houses the GEM,
F81B-14A067-AE
Built date: 03/24/1998
================================

I have visually inspected the above modules with magnification (up to
100 power) and can find no visual faults with any of the printed
circuitry or internal components, no burning evidence of any kind
and no corrosion, they are in fact, "Clean as a pin". Which surprises
me because of the dog situation here and they like to ride, dog hair
everywhere, but not in these units.

I just had to remove these units to satisfy my own curiosity, besides
I had to get the part numbers recorded...

The only anomaly that may be a concern was 3 or 4 tiny spots on the copper circuit where the chip is soldered onto the board.
The spots are showing the copper where there should be some of
the green varnish over top. It does not appear burned or corroded
just bare copper to the solder joint.

================================================== ===

Have replaced with new:
Valve cover gaskets
Under valve cover wiring harness x 2
All 8 glow plugs
CMP (Camshaft Position Sensor)
================================================== =====

Have inspected and verified that all (Known) fuses are serviceable
and power is on both sides of all fuses. (Multi meter). I have not
found ANY blown fuses and have not replaced any of fuses during
this process.
Have ohm'd all the relays in the power distribution boxes (coils) and even swapped out required relay with known good relays.

At this point I can only draw one conclusion...
There is an OPEN circuit somewhere, a broken wire or an internal
module component with a switch that won't close somewhere or a bad
connection with something,,,
Possibly a cold solder joint finally let loose on one of the Printed circuit
boards.

This does not rule out a fried diode or a coil somewhere but like
I said, no burnt smell, no dis-coloration due to heat. Still not definitive
but like I also indicated no popped fuses. (Unless there is an inline
fusible link somewhere that I don't know of)...

After all, this truck is 10 years old with 200k on it. I've read that
these computer controls have a limited life expectancy and certain
internal module components have a built in failure, either intentional
or not... not my call there...

Am I over analyzing or what?

I'd like to take all three of the modules into ford and see if they can
bench test them, (or someone).
There is a RECALL concerning RE-Programming the PCM (out of vehicle even) so they can do that and tell me if it's any good, maybe...
I don't know if Ford in Grand Junction is even equipped to bench test
these components. I guess I'll find out tomorrow.

Anyway, any feedback to add to my ramblings would
greatly be appreciated...

Catchup

 

Welcome to FTE. I had a similar situation when I first got my truck, but it turned out to be water infiltrating through windshield that wasn't properly sealed. Truck actually tried to start without the key in the ignition at one point when I was reconnecting batteries. That was two years ago and I didn't replace anything and have not had another incident since, though that windshield finally cracked and had to be replaced, dang cheap foreign glass!

 

Have you tried unplugging the fuel bowl heater? I know you said no blown fuses, but stranger things have happened.

 

OK Guy's here's the skinny...

I have done more testing and diagnosing than most medical doctors would do for
their patients and have come up with some interesting results...

I've learned a lot by searching this site (and others), I've also subscribed to AllData.com
for my truck. After many hours of digging through their site (what a lame site), I finally came up with something that I feel is a problem. Here's what I did... No I'm not going over everything, just what came up a fault...

I disconnected the IDM harness from the IDM, left all other connectors, connected.
With my trusty little DVOM I tested the resistance between the high side voltage to the injectors as well as the ground circuits to the injectors and here are the results...

Pin # 23; Fuel injector Feed (110volt) cylinder's 2,4,6,8= 31,000 ohms
Pin # 24; Fuel injector feed (110volt) cylinder's 1,3,5,7= 85,000 ohms

Pin #'s 6, 21, 8, 20= Between 31,000 and 33,000 ohms
(cylinders 1,3,5,7 injector coil ground)
Pin #'s 22, 7, 19, 9= Between 83,000 and 85,000 ohms
(cylinders 2,4,6,8 injector coil ground)

According to AllData (which is from the ford service manual) these readings should be under 10,000 ohms. If this is true and with the codes that were set, P1293, P1294 (Open Circuit exists between the IDM and injectors), I have to conclude that, without finding a short or broken wire in the harness (which I have looked for intensely) I have a bad IDM.

What I can't figure out is the rather large difference between the two banks. What we're looking at here is 50k ohms difference! Anybody got any ideas on this?

I can't believe that both sides would go out with a short in the harness at the same time...

The harness contains NO SHORT CIRCUIT, not to ground, not to B+ and no broken wires, of this I am very confident.

I have also checked for voltage on the high side 110 volt feed lines from IDM to injector harness.

KOEO IDM connected, reading at valve cover connectors
Test between valve cover connector pin E to B-
Right bank = 2.2 volts
Left bank = 1.7 volts

This is also a bit perplexing. Why the difference?

Catchup

 

Well, it's Sunday and the Broncos are playing...

I had only the right bank (bank 1, #1 cylinder) valve cover off, (this is after I'd replaced the UVCH the valve cover gasket and the glow plugs on both sides) so,,,, After getting those very high resistance readings from the high and low side and the difference in both, resepectively,,, I thought , what the hell, I'd better satisfy my curiosity and take the other valve cover off and double check everything again...

So I did...

And guess what?

All the resistance readings I got before went to 00000.000???

What the hell!!!!

Truck? Still she no start...

Oil pressure gage comes up...
13.5 Volts VPWR
RPM's 175+
Fuel pressure 55lbs
Turbo free and good air

Now I just don't know what to do??? Help me... Please...

If I don't hear anything else, I'm ordering a IDM in the AM
from a guy on E-Bay...


Catchup

 

I'd get out the OHM meter and check for continuity from the pins at the IDM plug, to the valve cover connectors to see if you have a short. You can also perform the OHM test from the valve cover connector instead of from the IDM connector, except your readings are supposed to drop down to less than 5 ohms when testing at the valve covers.

I guess still no luck with the buzz test? I don't know if your scanner will do that. It's a KOEO test you select that will buzz all 8 cylinders at once, then one at a time.

I'd double check all your fuses, but unfortunately don't know any way to test the IDM or PCM (0605 code) unless you find a buddy to swap parts with. You don't have a chip in your truck that has come loose do you?

 

I have an autotap scanner. It is great for most vehicles, but not our diesels. It will read codes and monitor most sensors if you buy the extended features, but no buzz test.

I don't know about all the electrical issues, but my truck has good oil pressure, tack working, but no start. IT was the IPR sensor. Replaced it and has worked great since.

 

I went to AutoTap.com and downloaded a file that is special to Powerstroke and installed it on a laptop... It reads codes and displays over 200 sensor and condition reports in real time but no buzz test...

I wish I had something to refer to as far as what a good truck should read like...
I did hook up to a running truck, same year and engine, it seems that it takes a little time for the AutoTap to settle down and give accurate readings.

Like the RPM and HPOP pressure were WAY out of range for a couple of minutes,
so I don't know if I'm getting accurate readings at crank or not.

I don't have a high pressure gauge to check oil pressure but you can see the high pressure hoses getting pressured up,,, they get very tight and hard, so I'm pretty sure there's plenty of oil pressure...

Oh well, I guess I'll go out and stare at the thing for a while and run some mor OHM checks and see what I can see...

Catchup