Hello all;

I've looked around and learned a lot.
I'll give this my best shot...

02/08/1998 engine (1999 F-350 Dually 7.3L Powerstroke)
200 K miles- no mods

Problem: No Start
Codes observed:

Non Continuos DTC's
P1690 Waste gate failure WGC circuit or solenoid, PCM (Powertrain Control Module)

P1316 Injector circuit/IDM codes detected Injector circuit failure/IDM codes detected

P0603 Internal control module KAM error Open PCM pin, disconnect B+, faulty PCM

P0381 Glow plug indicator circuit malfunction Open/grounded circuit, lamp open, failed PCM

P1293 High side open bank No. 1 (right) Open circuit, faulty IDM (Injector Driver Module)

P1294 High side open bank No. 2 (left) Open circuit, faulty IDM

P0605 Internal control module ROM error Internal PCM failure (ROM= Read Only Memory)

Continuous DTC's
P1280 Injector Control Pressure out of range low
P0381 Glow Plug/Heater Indicator Circuit

====================================

Scan Test results: (AutoTap V 3.01)

Results with engine cranking / KOEO:
RPM: 170 +-
Injection control pressure: 2170.5 PSI
(It does go as high as 3100- 290 PSI @ KOEO)

Injection Control Pressure Duty Cycle: 33% (15% @ KOEO)

Injection Control Pressure Input: 2.8 volts (0.6 volts @ KOEO)

Fuel Injector Pulse Width: 3.8 Ms
Fuel Injector Pulsewidth- Bank 1: 0 ms (These two never change at all during crank, nor with KOEO)
Fuel Injector Pulsewidth- Bank 2: 0 ms
Battery Voltage: 10.8 volts (12.7 @ KOEO)

Fuel Pressure at Head: 55 PSI KOEO (Mechanical gauge to verify)

What I've done and why...
Replaced CMP (Camshaft position sensor)
Replaced UVC harness x2
Replaced valve cover gasket x 2
Replaced 8 glow plugs

I knew there was a problem with the harness on the left so thought just maybe if I did this it would solve all the problems, and with winter coming soon, the GP's were a couple years old so I changed them too...

Oh, yea the problem...

It began the morning after the night before when she was running perfect...

I got up in the AM, started the truck, let it warm up like I always do, everything fine. Drove 6 blocks and it started missing, drove another 6 blocks and it was the beginning of the end. Managed to limp in to an open shop of a friend of mine. (2 hours later and I would have been in the middle of the rocky mountains, yup, up that well known creek)

The first thing we thought of was the CMP so out it came and in with a replacement... No start... Can these be tested either on vehicle or bench test?

I'm wondering about the plug that goes in the valve cover here...
First off, I know the 4 pins on the outside of the plug are the GP power supply, there are 5 other pins in between these that go to the injectors and a ground. These are for the high voltage that is controlled by/in the IDM, with that said, what should the voltage at this point be during KOEO?
During Engine Cranking?

As mentioned I have a AutoTap OBD II Scanner that records a ton of data but I just can't get it all together here to get this truck running. I'd sure appreciate any help you guy's can give as this has been going on now for three weeks and I got to get this truck running...

Thanks for the very helpful site...

 

I would start by looking here. It seems to be a little on the low side. Have you tried to charge the batteries and start? On low voltage the injectors won't fire. Others will chime in shortly.

 

good eye Jim...test both batteries..if they look good then clean all conection and test the alt.....some morning after a year or so my truck wont start but will spin right over....i wiggle the wires on the post and she will fire right up....i think Pocket just went though this..ruff running truck...found out the alt was going bad..also make sure oil is full and clean..are these old codes or just set???clear the codes and try again...by the way...welcome to FTE...hope you keep us posted on the out come and hope you stick around for a while..lots to learn here..

 

Battery charger working overtime... I have seen higher V PWR readings, up to 11.4

A little background here: Over the last few months there has been some quirks, for instance...

Once in a while the speedometer will quite until I shut off the engine and restart...

The vacum pump quit running and I've been pulling a vacum with a external pump to get the AC vents to work right... Guess what? It started working after the truck quit running... Coincidence?

I wish I had this scan tool over the last several years I've owned this truck, recording operating conditions and historical record of DTC's is the only way to operate a motor vehicle anymore... This thing is very nice...

 

I agree with Jim also. Voltage at the valve cover connectors with KOEO will be 0, and will remain at 0, even while cranking the engine, until the PCM has enough volts to tell the IDM to fire the injectors.

You're getting great numbers out of your ICP for just cranking. Have you tried a set of jumper cables?

Edit: And welcome to FTE.

 

Check all of your ground connections also. If there is a bad or intermittant ground that could wreak havoc with the electronics on the truck.

 

Alternator new 13.8 volts nominal,,, (Edit)(When the truck was running)

Batteries are less than 2 years and in good condition,,, have start boost battery charger...

Glow plugs are working...
No smoke at tail pipe...
New fuel filter
New air filter
Full tank of fuel
55 pounds fuel pressure @ right head fuel plug

 

Will go out and try the Jumper cables...
Have to but the pipe back on though...

BTW,,, Thanks for the welcome F350-6

 

A bad alternator can kill 2 year old batteries (you can guess how I learned this). Have you checked fuse #30 in your truck? What about the other fuses?

Fuel pressure readings are from the electric fuel pump and not related to the injectors firing. With your HPO readings, fuel pressure, and lack of smoke, I'd say something is not letting your IDM fire the injectors. (electronic signal)

 

Catchup, I apologize for the lack of my manners......Welcome to the greatest forum on the face of the earth!!!

 

Checked and D-Checked all fuses, swapped out relays, checked everything thats obvious and a bit more... (I just had to look at that IDM, yes I pulled it out and opened it up,,, Dry as a old desert bone, no visible damage no burn smell or site of burning, doesn't mean it isn't faulty, I know this...

One thing I'm having a problem with is locating any of the possible "In Line / fusible Links" that may or may not be a problem,,, Any help with that would be very helpful...

The "end of" battery life thing has me concerned,,,
I'll try to find a load tester tomorrow and check that... But from what I've read the injectors should fire with a minimum of 8 volts V PWR

I'm trying to give up as much info and history of the problem as I can but don't want to "Bloviate" to much...

I appreciate any and all help I can get on this,,,
It's just about got me to the point of kickin' the dog...

Just kidding...

CAtchup

 

I've been hanging around so long I feel like an old hand...

 

Don't worry about a thing!! The injectors need at least 10.5 volts to fire. When you load test the batteries make sure that you do them seperatley.

 

OK gang,,,
Batteries tested GOOD
Cleaned all the terminals
Charging for a little bit then will test, again...

I will clear all DTC's and see what codes come up afterwards and during crank,,,
Maybe it will just startup, huh? That would be nice...
Will let you know what happens

Catchup

 

Well,,,
It didn't start... No new codes after clearing DTC's
Cleaned the battery terminals, charged both batteries, hooked up jumper cables and tried to start it...

No Start, Vehicle voltage went down to 10.8 during cranking
Engine RPM to 172
HOP 2222
Pulse width 2.8ms

There are two other "Pulse width" readouts, one for Right bank and one for Left bank.
These two readings remain at 0ms

There is no smoke.
Have fuel,
have power,
I think the injectors are not getting a fire command from the IDM
I have checked the wiring harnesses and find no chaffing or damage.

What are my options at this point?

Thanks,
CAtchup

<Edit>
I pulled the codes again and got this one,,, again
P0381 Glow plug indicator circuit malfunction Open/grounded circuit, lamp open, failed PCM

So,,, does that indicate a bad PCM?
Do I need both IDM and PCM?
After reading about these they are prone to go bad with this many miles and years on them...