mechanical unilite distributor
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Elder User
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From: Indiana
mechanical unilite distributor
I recently purchased a unilite distributor but have not put it in yet. I have a 300 six that has headers, 390cfm holley, and offenhauser intake. It is currently still running the orginal distibutor, but runs pretty good. I have read here a number of times about how the distributor would need to be recurved.
Has anyone used a mechanical unilite distributor on theirs? What degree of timing did you use? I was thinking that the unilite was adjustable to some degree.
Has anyone used a mechanical unilite distributor on theirs? What degree of timing did you use? I was thinking that the unilite was adjustable to some degree.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Austin, TX
I don't run one, but in case you don't get any other responses, I'll throw in my 2 cents. As far as I know, these distributors don't have vacuum advances but I think they do have springs\weights that can be adjusted. The main reason for needing to recurve your distributor would be to eliminate pinging that often results from your EGR system disappearing when you do the manifold swap. I do run an Offenhauser intake on mine and was worried about this, but fortunately I haven't had any pinging problems since removing EGR and haven't had to mess with it.
I found a listing for a Mallory distributor for an inline 6, but unfortunately I couldn't find much regarding adjusting its timing. Here is the link to what I found:
Mallory 4563101 - Mallory Unilite Distributors - summitracing.com
Maybe that will point you in the right direction.
I found a listing for a Mallory distributor for an inline 6, but unfortunately I couldn't find much regarding adjusting its timing. Here is the link to what I found:
Mallory 4563101 - Mallory Unilite Distributors - summitracing.com
Maybe that will point you in the right direction.
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Elder User
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From: Indiana
I haven't had any problems with my original distributor causing a pinging either. A friend of mine had a similar set up as mine and said he notice a difference when he put the mechanical unilite in his. Just not sure if most can just put it in straight out of the box and have no problems.
Does mallory sell springs kits to change the advance?
Going to get me a rebuilt 300 six head with a 3 angle valve job for $50.
Going to put on my motor along with the unilite dizzy. Hopefully I can put a different cam in it at the same time.
Does mallory sell springs kits to change the advance?
Going to get me a rebuilt 300 six head with a 3 angle valve job for $50.
Going to put on my motor along with the unilite dizzy. Hopefully I can put a different cam in it at the same time.
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From: Spokane, WA
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Mallory uni-lites don't have weights, it uses a optical sensor that "sees" tabs on a wheel that is on the shaft of the distributor. The "mechanical" aspect is how it operates like your other distributor, as in, the advance curves act like it had weights, not vaccum. Your advance is easily adjusted with the plastic "key" that is included with the distributor. It looks like a stepped wedge that you push into a slot in the top of the distributor (with the cap off) until you push it into the step that has your desired advance written on it. Just find out how much advance the engine is supposed to have and push the key in until you reach that respective mark on the key, then withdraw the key. Pretty simple.
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From: Indiana
That's cool. Now only if I had the key/wedge!
I have the instruction manual that came with it, but haven't took the time to completely read it yet.
Thanks Heavy Metal for the info, that explains alot.
I have the instruction manual that came with it, but haven't took the time to completely read it yet.
Thanks Heavy Metal for the info, that explains alot.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2004
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Mallory uni-lites don't have weights, it uses a optical sensor that "sees" tabs on a wheel that is on the shaft of the distributor. The "mechanical" aspect is how it operates like your other distributor, as in, the advance curves act like it had weights, not vaccum. Your advance is easily adjusted with the plastic "key" that is included with the distributor. It looks like a stepped wedge that you push into a slot in the top of the distributor (with the cap off) until you push it into the step that has your desired advance written on it. Just find out how much advance the engine is supposed to have and push the key in until you reach that respective mark on the key, then withdraw the key. Pretty simple.
Unilite distributors *DO* have weights and springs. The plastic "key" is just a spacer that you slip into a slot to adjust the total amount of mechanical advance. Each step on the key corresponds to a certain number of degrees of advance. All you are doing is adjusting the STOPS that the weights come up against.
As far as vacuum, Unilite distributors are available both with and without vacuum advance. ALL of them have mechanical advance (weights and springs).
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Well, I am not aware of any unilite distributor, Mopar or other, that does not have mechanical advance. If it came with the plastic key with steps in it, it HAS mechanical advance. That is the purpose of the key, adjusting the stops on the mechanical advance. The weights and springs are below the plate that mounts the optical pickup. You cannot see the weights unless you take the distributer apart.
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From: Indiana
Well I got my garage cleaned up enough to get to the distributor. I'm not sure where inside the adjustment is made.
Do you have to loosen the 2 screws and place the stop in the slot? It looks like there is a double plate under the top plate that holds the optical unit. Without the mollory step type stop how would I know where to adjust it to?
Do you have to loosen the 2 screws and place the stop in the slot? It looks like there is a double plate under the top plate that holds the optical unit. Without the mollory step type stop how would I know where to adjust it to?
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