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Has any one ever wrapped their down pipe with header tape to reduce outside heat and hold the heat in to help keep the velocity of the gas up? Is it worth the extra $100 or so to have it ceramic coated?
Also do you need to remove the heat reflective material from the bottom of the transmission tunnel when you put in a larger dp?
You don't need to wrap the downpipe. It's not worth the $100.
If you want ceramic coat anything it should be the up-pipes. Remember, the turbo is driven by heat. I would think keeping the heat in post turbo would have minimal affect on velocity.
You don't not need to remove the heat shielding to get the pipe in. However, you need a good sawzall will a long blade cut out the seam on the firewall.
The reason I ask is I emailed Dale Isley of Tymar performance about dp sizes and prices and this was part of his response to my emailed question:
"A downpipe option I offer is ceramic coating, which acts as a thermal barrier (1300° inside the pipe only radiates 65° outside the pipe), and retains the heat in the exhaust gasses. A hot gas likes to expand. Using the Hypermax pipe, when the hot exhaust hits the 3” to 3.5” section it expands and cools slightly. If you go with a 4” exhaust, it expands again from the 3.5” into the 4” section, creating staged expansions. As it expands into the larger sections it creates a vacuum behind it that pulls more volume through the original 3” section than the turbo could push through it by itself, lowering restriction and increasing efficiency. I can order the downpipe and have it drop shipped to the ceramic coaters, then have the coaters drop ship it to you to save some money on shipping costs. Ceramic coating is $84.38, along with shipping charges adds another approximate $100."
I haven't looked at the price of header tape for a long time, but it could be close to the ceramic coating price by the time I factor in price of the tape, time to wrap and possible fustration of snagging or ripping the tape from trying to get the dp in.
The coating on the inside of the pipe is what is making the difference.
Ceramic coating on any exhaust stuff is good IMO.
It looks good, and functions well.
Rust is a wind inhibitor. Yea, in some ways it is. If its ceramic coated, it will not tarnish or rust inside from any moisture from condensation.
I personally, if i was getting what he is describing in the email, (which sounds like what i would get) have it coated.
I do need some of that header tape for my manafold on my 302 though, sucker is cracked in the typical spot.
anyways. the ceramic will keep the heat reflected inside, and the outside coating helps insulate the inside's work.
If you just taped up the outside, you'r just allowing the metal to soak up the heat and not let it out.
It would be effective, but probably look tacky. But nowhere near as effective as the coating.
89 dollars doesn't sound bad price either.
I just reused the original DP insulation. It's not a perfect fit and
I don't know if it adds performance. It certainly helps
with the transfer of heat into the cab and surrounding
parts ie. transmission & cooler lines.
This may be a minor thing but in the summer keeping the heat out of the cab might be one thing to consider, if you were trying to justify spending the cash on the coating.
I would choose ceramic over wrapping especially here in michigan due the wrap being able to hold moisture and salt which will devastate the metal under it. In the west and south that may not be as much of an issue.
I have the coating DP from Dale and I feel good for the reasons he explains, and looks fine and really downs the heat, and here most time is SUMMER time so I think the coat will help the cab, the tranny etc, etc.
some who have done the coating say they noticed a faster spooling of the turbo. I think I am gonna do my manifolds, up-pipes and exhaust housing maybe even the DP once I get my project all fabbed up.
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