bad ranger
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bad ranger
88 ranger-165,000. all new---battery-- gas tank--plugs----wires--ignition control module, filter, dis cap n rotor , coil-----. sometimes while driving---it will run like a tiger n all of the sudden it will die. like it lost power or no gas--- u coast to a stop n it will not start up. cranks fine. tried starting fliud n will run till that is used. let it sit for awhile---couple hrs or over nite--n usually it starts. can hear fuel pump kick in when u turn key on. any ideas. drivin me crazy. got stranded couple of times now. HELP 
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Southeast MI
Sounds like something's shutting off for safety (as in overheat - dash gauge not esp useful here) or a short in the wiring perhaps. Clean & search the harness, check anti-freeze for debris, bubbles, rust, etc. It has spark & cranks, so possibly heat related PCM shut-off of fuel during cranking? OTOH, how does the air filter look? And vacuum. Yeah, reaching here...
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bad ranger
thanx. been checking wiring--thinking maybe a bad connection at a plug in. would a bad thermo stat cause that? gauge never shows that it over heats tho. what about bad oxygen sensor? never heard that to cause one to stop runnin. u?
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Southeast MI
If it's a bad thermostat, the stalls and fail to start would be from overheating I'm pretty sure. The O2 sensor, I don't believe so. It should balk enough to light up your check engine light & store a code. There is a jumper trick for the diag connector which on an '88 should be at pass side rear corner of engine bay and would blink the codes on the dash until you shut ignition off & pull the jumper. I forgot which goes to which spot at the moment. Getting the codes should help a great deal.
Elder User
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From: Southeast MI
Ford Ranger/Bronco II EEC-IV Testing
Another invaluable resource.
The stuff you want is about the 1st half to start with. The code jumper trick is nearly 1/2 way down.
Another invaluable resource.
The stuff you want is about the 1st half to start with. The code jumper trick is nearly 1/2 way down.
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Southeast MI
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...formation.html
Actually our own FTE Read 1st resource is much more detailed and helpful. It's always the 1st thread on the list.
Actually our own FTE Read 1st resource is much more detailed and helpful. It's always the 1st thread on the list.
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thnax bro s-- u have been so much more helpful than the mechanics that claimed to know what the propblem is. i may have found out from what u have provided here. tho th etruck doesnt show it is runnin hot--it may be runnin hot enough--to shut down the fule injectors. gonna check the therm n coolant. will let ya ll know what happens. keep on--keepin on!
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Elder User
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From: Southeast MI
No problem, Shadow. There are probably dozens of guys on this forum who could rattle this whole list off the top of thier wise heads in seconds... Cert techs & not. The techs you referred to are probably Chevy guys.
That's the story at a few of our best shops here it seems.
That's the story at a few of our best shops here it seems.
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bad Ranger
tried starting fliud n will run till that is used.
This tells you that the electrical is good or it would not run on starting fluid.
This sounds like you are getting the fuel cut off ,something blocking the fuel at the pickup screen at the pump,fuel filter getting plugged up or pressure regulator is getting plugged.After it sits and the pressure bleeds off the blockage settles to the bottom or unblocks the feed.
Do this ,the next time it does this and it won't start take a slender pointed object(pen knife,ball point pen)find the Shrader valve, which looks like the valve stem on your tires and depress the center pin ( make sure you are not in the path of the valve, because their should be gas under pressure in the lines) if gas comes out under good pressure then you most likely have a bad pressure regulator that is plugged or is dumping all the fuel back to the tank via the return line.If you get no pressure then you need to check out your fuel filter and /or pump.
Of course you can buy/rent a fuel pressure tester and screw it on to the Shrader valve to check for fuel pressure should be a least 38 psi.
Hope this helps
Good Luck
Kenny
Ops... The Shrader valve is on the fuel rail or the fuel line just before the fuel rail
This tells you that the electrical is good or it would not run on starting fluid.
This sounds like you are getting the fuel cut off ,something blocking the fuel at the pickup screen at the pump,fuel filter getting plugged up or pressure regulator is getting plugged.After it sits and the pressure bleeds off the blockage settles to the bottom or unblocks the feed.
Do this ,the next time it does this and it won't start take a slender pointed object(pen knife,ball point pen)find the Shrader valve, which looks like the valve stem on your tires and depress the center pin ( make sure you are not in the path of the valve, because their should be gas under pressure in the lines) if gas comes out under good pressure then you most likely have a bad pressure regulator that is plugged or is dumping all the fuel back to the tank via the return line.If you get no pressure then you need to check out your fuel filter and /or pump.
Of course you can buy/rent a fuel pressure tester and screw it on to the Shrader valve to check for fuel pressure should be a least 38 psi.
Hope this helps
Good Luck
Kenny
Ops... The Shrader valve is on the fuel rail or the fuel line just before the fuel rail
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2004
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I found that Ford made the distributer mounted ignition control module so that it fails when it gets hot. Do a google search on Howard v Ford. It might be this problem with the TFI. I'm having a similar problem with a 1990 Bronco, (no spark).
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ok--i checked the therm---man it had to be original n the gasket was basically gone. next the water pump. it was leaking off under where i couldnt see it. --[so thats where my coolant went] so---i replaced both. the old therm was a 195 one. replaced with a 180 n it runs sooo much cooler. now -i am hoping that with the bad therm n water pump--it was runnin so hot that it gave a signal to shut down . does this sound likely> u know the dash temp gauge never really showed it runnin that hot. not reliable-i know. snicker. when i read the links u guys provided--one mentioned if it ran hot --it would send a signal to the pcm? n shut down the fuel injectors. did i read that right. remember--i am a carpenter-- i can build u a house--but wrenchin is alien to me. lol. but --i sure do appreciate every ones help here. i got more from this than any garage. n if u have a question about a house--just ask the ol Shadow.
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From: new braunfels ,tx
IM doubting the temperature theory but not 100% about it. I would run it till it dies again. Maybe it wont die for your sake, but if it does check the shrader valve on the fuel rail and post what you find.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
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From: SW Va
Welcome to FTE.
Could be a number of things, but from your descriptions of how it lays down on you, I agree it sounds like it's fuel delivery related.
Do you have a CEL lit???? If so there are trouble codes stored in the computers memory. There may be pending codes stored, that haven't matured to turn the Check Engine Light on yet, so pull the trouble codes & post ALL the code numbers found & the order in which they were retrieved, as they can offer up good trouble shooting clues as, has been suggested.
When you replaced the gas tank, you didn't say you also replace the fuel filter, so have you done that yet?????
Have you done a fuel pressure test when it stalls & won't restart????
The next time it stalls & won't restart, without delay, loosen the gas cap & try to start it, If it immediately restarts, suspect the gas cap.
A bunch more thoughts for pondering, let us know what you find.
Could be a number of things, but from your descriptions of how it lays down on you, I agree it sounds like it's fuel delivery related.
Do you have a CEL lit???? If so there are trouble codes stored in the computers memory. There may be pending codes stored, that haven't matured to turn the Check Engine Light on yet, so pull the trouble codes & post ALL the code numbers found & the order in which they were retrieved, as they can offer up good trouble shooting clues as, has been suggested.
When you replaced the gas tank, you didn't say you also replace the fuel filter, so have you done that yet?????
Have you done a fuel pressure test when it stalls & won't restart????
The next time it stalls & won't restart, without delay, loosen the gas cap & try to start it, If it immediately restarts, suspect the gas cap.
A bunch more thoughts for pondering, let us know what you find.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
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I'm thinking the TFI module is shutting down when hot. When it happens, check for spark. If there isn't any, I would suspect the TFI and stator. I replaced a lot of them for that reason, but replace both the module and stator. The stator is what usually takes out the module. People will only replace the module and it will work fine for quite a while and then the new module goes again.